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Thread: Why not a 96" Biesmeyer ??

  1. #16
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    Marc, several people have mentioned track saws. If you've never used one, you're like me before I fully understood just how good they are. For large crosscuts like you describe, I don't think a table saw can rival the accuracy and clean cuts of a good track saw, to say nothing of the safety issue. Maybe a slider, I don't know.

    The Festoolers swear by that brand. Me, I'm happily amazed by my Makita.

  2. #17
    Quote Originally Posted by Nick Decker View Post
    Marc, several people have mentioned track saws. If you've never used one, you're like me before I fully understood just how good they are. For large crosscuts like you describe, I don't think a table saw can rival the accuracy and clean cuts of a good track saw, to say nothing of the safety issue. Maybe a slider, I don't know.

    The Festoolers swear by that brand. Me, I'm happily amazed by my Makita.
    Marc, In case you perceive the track saw as being a pain to set up versus just walking up to your table saw, keep in mind that with the track saw, you could gang cut two, possibly three pieces at a time and regain some efficiency that way.

    To add to the convenience, here is a link to a crosscutting jig Fine Woodworking showcases in this video. Pretty simple to make and keep in the corner for when you need it and of course you could size it to your purpose: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ateKCJx069w.

  3. #18
    Quote Originally Posted by Edwin Santos View Post
    To add to the convenience, here is a link to a crosscutting jig Fine Woodworking showcases in this video. Pretty simple to make and keep in the corner for when you need it and of course you could size it to your purpose: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ateKCJx069w.
    Thanks for the idea and the link Edwin!
    Fred
    "All that is necessary for the triumph of evil is that good men do nothing."

    “If you want to know what a man's like, take a good look at how he treats his inferiors, not his equals.”

  4. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mark Bolton View Post
    In my opinion your breaking the cardinal rule of never ripping anything with the fence that is wider than it is long. Major kickback nightmare there.
    +1

    For an analogy, imagine trying to rip an inch off the edge of a 96" x 10" board using nothing more than your miter gage (if the miter gage bar were long enough).

    Think about how the board would have a tendency to wander, twist and bind the blade (and kick back).

  5. #20
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    We don't have racking trouble when we set our fence at 49" and cut an 8' L to R full sheet.

    IF one has large ext tables, it can safely and accurately be done by one person.

    At least once on the table, I think we agree on this ?

    And actually, I still always do have a helper for large sheets.



    Why would there be any problem if fence were able to be set at 86" ?


    My potentially proposed "96" " bies would be super solid in all ways as my current 52.

    When I installed my 52 ext table.. I added welded steel framing so was substantially braced... solid in all directions as Gibralter.

    Not only does it depend on the standard Bies bar, angles, legs.. but there is a braced 3x3x1/4" angle mobile base .. after all is tied together.. effectively as solid as a Northfield factory wings.

    So all I am saying is - I propose to make a very concientiously designed and executed super solid 96" system. And it will have permanent very solid ext tables in also all other directions... infeed table will readily be shiftable L to R.

    I fully realize that for production use this is not optimal... but at my level I am ok w it.

    John said - "... Lots of shops had 96 in the old days. Delta had the Unifence in 96 inch in the catalog."

    I suppose they fell out of favor w the intro of Euro panel saws, vert panel saws, and now w the track saws.

    But was there any problem w them otherwise ?

    Jacob said - "For an analogy, imagine trying to rip an inch off the edge of a 96" x 10" board using nothing more than your miter gage (if the miter gage bar were long enough).

    Think about how the board would have a tendency to wander, twist and bind the blade (and kick back)."

    Thank you but I am well aware of this issue and would not do that... anything ratio'd like that would be on an appropriate sled. and would never have the cutoff end restricted.

    Marc
    I'm pretty new here, not as as experienced as most. Please don't hesitate to correct me

  6. #21
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    Honestly.. I think for me it all goes back to a lifelong desire for a TS w a BIG SOLID work surface.

    That's why I picked up the R/D 12/14... I did NOT need the deeper cut... but for the stability, table size, and romance of it.

    Marc
    I'm pretty new here, not as as experienced as most. Please don't hesitate to correct me

  7. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Marc Jeske View Post
    We don't have racking trouble when we set our fence at 49" and cut an 8' L to R full sheet.
    But cutting the edge off an 8' sheet of plywood would mean having a lever arm almost twice as long. Much more tendency to rack.

    I don't think anyone cares whether or not you do what you've proposed. You asked for opinions, and you got them.

    Good luck. Don't stand behind the blade.

  8. #23
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    I don't understand the geometry of any problem making a cut w one foot "drop" to left of blade, and 7' between blade and fence on a good solid foundation.

    The above refers to a 4x8 sheet w 4' bearing against fence.

    In fact, is that not less "lever arm" than crosscutting in CENTER of 4x8 ?

    What am I missing ?



    Marc
    Last edited by Marc Jeske; 03-18-2019 at 7:07 PM.
    I'm pretty new here, not as as experienced as most. Please don't hesitate to correct me

  9. #24
    Stay safe Marc.
    Fred
    "All that is necessary for the triumph of evil is that good men do nothing."

    “If you want to know what a man's like, take a good look at how he treats his inferiors, not his equals.”

  10. #25
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    You ask for opinions, you get them, and basically ignore them.

    You don’t understand the levering action we are all talking about. Having a longer board left to right than against the fence. That makes you’re idea a bad one from a safety standpoint. What’s not to understand?

    You’re not listening.

  11. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Matt Day View Post
    You ask for opinions, you get them, and basically ignore them.

    You don’t understand the levering action we are all talking about. Having a longer board left to right than against the fence. That makes you’re idea a bad one from a safety standpoint. What’s not to understand?

    You’re not listening.
    I was away a bit here and thought about the lever thing.

    I thought something different was being explained.. in my mind.. I did not even consider the above because I thought THAT was obvious.. rather I was digging in my head tying to understand past that.

    If that makes any sense.

    I think I am listening.. but thought it was about something "deeper"

    Feeling frustrated here.

    OK.. So are you Folks saying it is basically unsafe to get much more L to R between blade and fence than the ballpark 40" or so whatever the fence length is?

    Further.. so that is another reason why most fences max out at around 50" ?

    And yet further... Are you saying there is no truly safe way to have a "drop" piece narrower than ballpark 50"

    So one more then - I'm wanting to end up w a 4 x 7 usable piece, it should have the 7' to left of blade?

    Problem I have w that is even if on a large L ext table, as the cut is nearing completion.. it is too easy to open or close the kerf hence getting a very possible uneven cut on the keeper 7' piece.. including that tiny hanging chad chip at the very end evidencing one allowed the kerf to open at the end, hence the last 1/8 snapped open rather than clean cut.

    Have patience Guys and please realize I am generally quite safety conscious and analytical... normally anyway.

    Marc
    I'm pretty new here, not as as experienced as most. Please don't hesitate to correct me

  12. #27
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    Last time. Pick one:
    Track saw
    Panel saw
    Sliding table saw

    Note that the TS is NOT on the list.

  13. #28
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    I did read that.. I look at all posts multiple times.


    Could we forget for the moment aALL my previous posts.. and let me just ask..

    WHY did the "old days" saws mentioned above w the 8 or even 10' fence go out of style ?

    Was it SAFETY reasons ?

    OR.... the fact that more efficient and practical saw configurations were developed and marketed ?

    Marc
    I'm pretty new here, not as as experienced as most. Please don't hesitate to correct me

  14. #29
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    In this older thread, majority says go w the wider option.

    I understand diminishing returns.. To eggaretate.. obviously no point to a 20' fence.. but does this not support a 96" over a 52" if one has the space and does not want to deal w a tracksaw ?

    Marc

    https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread....mportant/page3
    I'm pretty new here, not as as experienced as most. Please don't hesitate to correct me

  15. #30
    Quote Originally Posted by Matt Day View Post
    Last time. Pick one:
    Track saw
    Panel saw
    Sliding table saw

    Note that the TS is NOT on the list.
    Why the snarky stuff Matt? There's no value in it. The man said he is trying to understand.
    Fred
    Last edited by Frederick Skelly; 03-18-2019 at 9:53 PM.
    "All that is necessary for the triumph of evil is that good men do nothing."

    “If you want to know what a man's like, take a good look at how he treats his inferiors, not his equals.”

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