Thinking about an old Martin T75 sliding table saw for solid wood

[Brian Holcombe]

I wouldn't cut that shaft down, the saw is made to handle fairly large blades and I would not want them running on anything smaller than OEM.

Try and source a new one from Martin, have a new one made or have that one repaired. I can't imagine that people part these machines out all to commonly, but maybe.

A saw blade on that shaft will probably vibrate and if it vibrates it will kill the bearings.

[peter gagliardi]

I am almost positive you will find the date of your saw cast into the underside of it. Only difference is, it won’t be in the same order as it is here in the US.
We do MM/DD/YEAR, the saw will probably have it as DD/MM/YEAR.
Here is my T17 top.
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[Joe Calhoon]

Peter, since I know mine is 1977 I will look tomorrow to see what the top says. If I can see it. Thinking they probably age the castings for year - years?

[Darcy Warner]

Don't reduce the arbor size. Pull it out, take it and have it built up with hard chrome an OD ground back to 1 1/4"

[peter gagliardi]

I would agree about doing what is necessary to keep the existing arbor size. 1 1/4” will be far more useful when finding tooling and blades I believe.

[Darcy Warner]

I would agree about doing what is necessary to keep the existing arbor size. 1 1/4” will be far more useful when finding tooling and blades I believe.

Plus the spin on dado arbor is 1 1/4" and set up to work with just how that arbor is.

[Patrick Walsh]

Tell us more bout this spin on dado arbor.

You lost me with spin on....

Plus the spin on dado arbor is 1 1/4" and set up to work with just how that arbor is.

[Darcy Warner]

Tell us more bout this spin on dado arbor.

You lost me with spin on....

It spins on the arbor and bottoms out at the shoulder of the 1 1/4" part of the regular arbor.

I think Martin wanted like 3k for one, basically to get you to say no. I have one and had drawing made and a few made for saws I had.

[Joe Calhoon]

Good advice on the arbor. I would also add that if you had it turned down to 30mm that could work also depending on tooling you want to use. That is what these saws sold in Europe came with.

I tried to find a date on my cast top but could not see anything. Might have to wait until it comes off. My shaper top did not have any dates. Might have been an earlier trend.

One puzzle on my T17 are these spring pressured bolts with aluminum disks to tighten. They seem to be original from the paint on the back side. Any idea what these are for? Maybe to hold a fixture of some sort.

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[Darcy Warner]

Don't think I have them on my 17

[Joe Calhoon]

Never seen them on any either Darcy

[peter gagliardi]

Not on mine either Joe.

[Joe Calhoon]

Took a trip down the backroad today to look at my old T75.
here is what the splitter - riving knife holder (cannot remember the proper term for this type.) looks like. So I guess the one on my T17 is original. Just has one of the ears cut off. This one has a nice handle built into the square nut. The carriage type bolt has a snap ring to keep it in position. The one here was mangled as was the one on my 17. Believe they are original.

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[Chris Balton]

I want to thank everyone for their help and the good information. I will take closer look at the arbor before doing anything to it, I need to spend some time with a dial indicator and a micrometer to check it out thoroughly. I will have to remove the arbor and bearing assembly to repair the riving knife bracket anyway.

Regarding the date of the saw, I looked under the table and could not find a date, there was a set of letters cast into the bottom, if it was a date it was in code.

Here are photos of the miter gauges, the right one is super ugly, so ugly you might want to avert your eyes, and is quite different from the left side. I don't think the slot on the right side is original, I think someone added it later.

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thanks,
Chris

[joe milana]

Thanks for the riving knife bracket pictures Joe. My t-75 is missing it's as well, and is super annoying as small off cuts want to curve around the back of the spinning blade, and potentially launch. If nothing available from Martin, it looks like a fairly easy fabrication. A source for a riving knife would help.

Here's a picture of the rip fence pointer. The set screw just below adjusts the position of the pointer.
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