Page 3 of 5 FirstFirst 12345 LastLast
Results 31 to 45 of 66

Thread: Dust Bin Sensor Completed

  1. #31
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Tippecanoe County, IN
    Posts
    836
    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Becker View Post
    You need a 240/120v four wire circuit to accomplish this on a single connection to your "mobile" DC setup. The fourth wire provides the neutral required for the 120v need. Alternatively...two separate cords.
    Or just get a wall wart that works on 240V. Actually, check the label on the existing one, most of the switching supplies now operate on a wide input voltage range.
    Beranek's Law:

    It has been remarked that if one selects his own components, builds his own enclosure, and is convinced he has made a wise choice of design, then his own loudspeaker sounds better to him than does anyone else's loudspeaker. In this case, the frequency response of the loudspeaker seems to play only a minor part in forming a person's opinion.
    L.L. Beranek, Acoustics (McGraw-Hill, New York, 1954), p.208.

  2. #32
    Join Date
    May 2018
    Location
    San Francisco Bay Area
    Posts
    104
    Quote Originally Posted by David L Morse View Post
    Or just get a wall wart that works on 240V. Actually, check the label on the existing one, most of the switching supplies now operate on a wide input voltage range.
    Thanks! I checked, and it does work with 240 volts. But that would mean adding another 220v outlet to my shop and an 220v extension cord. A lot of work to get 12 volts to the sensor box. I think I will probably just run a 120v extension cord parallel to the main cord for the dust collector. Or possibly extend the 12v output from the wall wart and run 12 volts to the box. I suspect that it doesn't draw very much power.

    Looks like the sensor Oneida sells has the same issue. Here is an image from a video on their site.

    Screen Shot 2019-06-15 at 9.19.50 AM.jpg

    Bob

    p.s. I like you Leo Beranek quote. I used to work at Bolt, Beranek, and Newman a while back.

  3. #33
    Join Date
    May 2018
    Location
    San Francisco Bay Area
    Posts
    104
    Quote Originally Posted by Bob Hinden View Post
    Thanks! I checked, and it does work with 240 volts. But that would mean adding another 220v outlet to my shop and an 220v extension cord. A lot of work to get 12 volts to the sensor box. I think I will probably just run a 120v extension cord parallel to the main cord for the dust collector. Or possibly extend the 12v output from the wall wart and run 12 volts to the box. I suspect that it doesn't draw very much power.
    I did some searches on Amazon and found a 20ft 12 volt extension cord. See:

    https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07K58LF9Q..._pOtbDbZE3XVB3

    I think that will work, and ordered one. Only $7.

    Bob

  4. #34
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Tippecanoe County, IN
    Posts
    836
    Quote Originally Posted by Bob Hinden View Post
    ...that would mean adding another 220v outlet to my shop and an 220v extension cord. A lot of work to get 12 volts to the sensor box...
    I can understand you not wanting to hack your new DC just to tap into the power.

    Quote Originally Posted by Bob Hinden View Post
    ...p.s. I like you Leo Beranek quote. I used to work at Bolt, Beranek, and Newman a while back.
    Thanks, I think it may apply to more than just loudspeakers.
    Beranek's Law:

    It has been remarked that if one selects his own components, builds his own enclosure, and is convinced he has made a wise choice of design, then his own loudspeaker sounds better to him than does anyone else's loudspeaker. In this case, the frequency response of the loudspeaker seems to play only a minor part in forming a person's opinion.
    L.L. Beranek, Acoustics (McGraw-Hill, New York, 1954), p.208.

  5. #35
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Toronto Ontario
    Posts
    11,236
    Quote Originally Posted by Bob Hinden View Post
    I received all of the parts from China via eBay, and also a box and some terminal blocks from Amazon.

    I put it together today, did the setup, and it appears to work. See attached pictures.

    Attachment 411254Attachment 411253Attachment 411255

    I have not yet attached it to the dust collector, the first pictures show where it will be installed. I am also not sure how sensitive it needs to be, but mine does have an adjustment screw on the sensor.

    Also, now I need how to bring 110v to a 220v dust collector and keep it mobile.

    Bob
    Hi Bob, if you need the 120 volts for the DC supply, just buy a universal input (120/240) volt DC supply.

    That’s what I did......Regards, Rod

  6. #36
    Join Date
    May 2018
    Location
    San Francisco Bay Area
    Posts
    104
    Quote Originally Posted by Bob Hinden View Post
    I did some searches on Amazon and found a 20ft 12 volt extension cord. See:

    https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07K58LF9Q..._pOtbDbZE3XVB3

    I think that will work, and ordered one. Only $7.
    It arrived yesterday, I tried it out, it works fine.

  7. #37
    Join Date
    May 2018
    Location
    San Francisco Bay Area
    Posts
    104
    I got around to finishing the installation yesterday by drilling a hole in the top of the dust collection bin. Used some rubber o-rings to get a good seal.

    When I provided power to the sensor, it triggered right away, even though the bin was mostly empty. I turned the little screw until the light went out. I guess I will have to wait until I fill the bin to do a final adjustment. I mounted it on the clear window on the bin because I could remove the window and drill it on the drill press, I don't think that would be an issue.

    Any suggestions?

    Thanks,
    Bob

  8. #38
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Fort Worth, TX
    Posts
    104
    Hey Larry, just wanted to say a quick thanks! I too built this based on your post and it works great! I would add one note- if you are using pvc ducting or your duct work is not grounded (and you are using a steel barrel like me), make sure you ground the barrel. I fried a power supply within about 5 min on a particularly humid texas day Thankfully the sensor survived.

  9. #39
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    NW Indiana
    Posts
    3,076
    The real thanks goes to Rid Sheridan..he was a genius with it.

  10. #40
    Join Date
    May 2018
    Location
    San Francisco Bay Area
    Posts
    104
    I started a new milling project, sure enough the light started flashing. I used a flashlight and realized it was not close to full. So I adjusted the sensor again. After more milling it came on again. I checked again with the flashlight, still seemed a little early, so kept going.

    When I was done and it was still flashing, I checked again with the flashlight, it was pretty full. Seemed like 90%. I emptied the bag and realized it was full to the point of making it difficult to close and seal the bag. I think that the sensor was set about right.

    Overall conclusion, the dust collection sensor works very well. The flashing LEDs are bright enough to be noticed and the sensor can be adjusted to the correct level.

    Thanks to Rod for the design and all of the suggestions on this forum.

    Bob

  11. #41
    Join Date
    May 2018
    Location
    San Francisco Bay Area
    Posts
    104

    Dust Bin Sensor died

    Yesterday when I went into the shop, the dust bin sensor was flashing. I checked the bin, it was not even close to full. I tried cleaning the bottom of the sensor, but no change. Tried adjusting the sensitivity, also no change.

    Something died.

    Any suggestions? It had worked flawlessly since I made it.

    Thanks in advance.

  12. #42
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Location
    MT
    Posts
    698
    Something in your circuit is closed that should be normally open. If you have a multi-meter you should be able to do continuity checks to figure it out. Just make sure you unplug the wall wort first.
    Regards,

    Kris

  13. #43
    Join Date
    May 2018
    Location
    San Francisco Bay Area
    Posts
    104
    Quote Originally Posted by Kris Cook View Post
    Something in your circuit is closed that should be normally open. If you have a multi-meter you should be able to do continuity checks to figure it out. Just make sure you unplug the wall wort first.
    Thanks, I will take a look today.

    Bob

  14. #44
    Join Date
    May 2018
    Location
    San Francisco Bay Area
    Posts
    104
    I went to debug the problem, but after applying power again, it worked normally. I readjusted the sensor and checked all of the connections, all seemed good. I will keep an eye on it.

    Bob

  15. #45
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Location
    Crozet, VA
    Posts
    638
    So I built this sensor and it worked perfectly at first, but it's kind of "wigging out" on me more recently. When I trigger the sensor the controller/timer will count down as it should but then it won't turn the light on when it gets to zero. I know the light works because when I apply power directly it comes on as it should. I tried to re-program the controller but when I push the "set" button I get nothing (never shows P1). I'm guessing the controller is semi-fried and probably going to order a new one, but wanted to check with the experts here to see if I might be missing something.
    There is a very fine line between “hobby” and “mental illness.” - Dave Barry

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •