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Thread: Blade configuration for Stranded flooring (janka 4000)

  1. #1
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    Blade configuration for Stranded flooring (janka 4000)

    I've bought some stranded eucalyptus T&G flooring and i'm trying to determine the ideal way to cut it. It's significantly different than the more common non-stranded bamboo/eucalyptus flooring. This stuff is made by taking long strips (think thinly rived rather than cut) and using extremely high pressure to compress it into a board. It's got a heavy amount of some kind of adhesive in the mix. The end result is a 9/16 board that has a janka rating between 3300-4100. It also has the typical aluminum oxide coating that they put on laminate flooring.
    https://www.calibamboo.com/product-n...009004001.html

    With the hardness plus the al-oxide coating I'm not quite sure what kind of blade would be best. A high tooth count seems an obvious choice, but I'm torn between ATB or TCG. I'm worried the atb tips will dull quickly on the coating.

    I've also read various reports saying things with the al-oxide coating should be cut on the table saw rather than miter saw. They mention plunge cuts through the coating will quickly dull the blade. Although, i assume this is negated if using a sliding miter saw. I've got the larger bosch articulated miter saw and the 1.5hp delta hybrid table saw they sell at lowes.

    Anyone have any experience or suggestions for cutting arrangement on stranded flooring?

  2. #2
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    I helped my son install 800 sf of stranded bamboo just over two years ago. I also have it in my kitchen, but due to time constraints, I had a friend install it. Most cross cutting was done with a little Skil flooring saw I purchased at HD and have used on several flooring projects, bamboo and luxury vinyl plank. If you plan on doing much flooring, I strongly suggest using that. It is a slider so you are not doing a plunge cut. I used their upgrade carbide blade on it. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Skil-7-0...B&gclsrc=aw.ds Although if you have a SCMS, it should do the trick as long as you don't plunge into the wood. Typically you have the wood face down when you cut, except for the TS.


    While it will rip, it is a bit awkward for that purpose. We also used a HF 12" miter saw for angle cuts and a Kobalt table saw for ripping, all using the standard blades. At the end of the project, all blades needed sharpening, more likely due to the aluminum oxide in the finish than the hardness of the bamboo.
    NOW you tell me...

  3. #3
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    Well that's an interesting tool that i've never seen before. The cost is fair and even diablo blades are dirt cheap since they're only 4" dia.

    Since you used it successfully, is it safe to assume it had ample power for a 9/16" thick stranded floor?

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bill Tarbell View Post
    Well that's an interesting tool that i've never seen before. The cost is fair and even diablo blades are dirt cheap since they're only 4" dia.

    Since you used it successfully, is it safe to assume it had ample power for a 9/16" thick stranded floor?
    Yep. With the small diameter, thin kerf blade, not much power is needed, 7 amps is plenty.
    NOW you tell me...

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