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Thread: New shop build, the MBS

  1. #106
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Colorado Springs
    Posts
    236
    Been busy so just now have time to update.

    Here’s a couple of pics of the LS 1219 after cutting up multiple 2x4’s for sawhorses and some MDF for shelving. Very little dust. Downsides, the noise at the intake boot is very loud when attached to the Festool 36. Louder than the saw itself. Worse, the 36 fit just fine in my 18” cabinet designed for it (where I was going to route the hose out the back for either SCMS or sander attachments), but I forgot to include the hose attaching to the front. Door won’t close. Now looking more closely at original plan of ducts from main DC.

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    Meanwhile, I’ve been slaving away putting the veggie garden back in (shop took the old space). If I knew in advance how hard this would be I might have never started this entire project. Its crunch time as window to plant tomatoes is rapidly approaching.

    Infernal machine:

    EBCFDAF8-DCDB-4E94-9353-49B093A20398.jpgIt goes through dirt great but also does just as good a job on sprinkler pipe and gutter downspout S&D pipe. See patches below. . I needed to trench to bury hardware cloth 2’ deep around fence to keep voles and gophers out. Plus will extend 2’ above for the rabbits which have exploded since the fox died off. The challenge of this project was trying to use the same fence sections from the original garden, even though the new one has different dimensions. Lots of measuring. Some cussing.


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    Last edited by Jon Snider; 05-06-2019 at 1:38 PM.

  2. #107
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Colorado Springs
    Posts
    236
    Spring storm pushed me back inside. Cool snow slide on truck window.

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    Started putting in drawers. First time using these Blum Tandem undermounts. Very nice. Not cheap!
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    I put in some shelves for the battery charging area and, at least for now, hardware storage. Half of the battery outlets are switched with the main shop lights. Area to the left will be for sheet goods storage.

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    Finally, built six sawhorses, all at 37” high, which I’ll use w plywood to build a breakdown lofting table in the basement once I get back to boat building.

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  3. #108
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Colorado Springs
    Posts
    236
    Quote Originally Posted by Jon Nuckles View Post
    Jon,
    With the addition of the stone work, my attitude toward your build has just passed admiration and edged into envy. Are you doing the flagstones yourself? Impressive work, if so.
    Jon
    Sorry Jon, just saw this. Been busy traveling a lot recently. I did much of it with help.

  4. #109
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Colorado Springs
    Posts
    236
    Spent a little time this weekend in the shop basement. Setting up the Clearvue DC. Turns out the manual is right about doing this by yourself.

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    And working on the Monarch 10EE wiring connections.

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    Today started hanging drawer fronts and pulls for my cabinets. Looks like my jig holes got a little sloppy for a couple of the drawer pulls. Some day I may actually get around to fixing those.

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  5. #110
    Hey Jon,

    Your shop furniture is really coming along. Don't do the woodworking thing about pointing out your mistakes. In the picture it looks perfect. Even better to me is that it is looking done. Good work!

    Thomas

  6. #111
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Colorado Springs
    Posts
    236
    Finished setting up the Rinnai EX38CT heater, gas hook up, and connecting the Honeywell thermostat to the wireless network. I chose this thermostat since it was the only one I could find which worked on a network and would also go down to 40 degrees. This required two calls to their support line as the thermostat was not among the choices on the Honeywell app. But now it works great and I can adjust temps up before going out to shop. Just in time for summer

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    Over the last two evenings also finished installing the drawer fronts and pulls, and cabinet pulls. Now need to adjust some of the cabinet door hinges.

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    The thing I’m perhaps most excited about is connecting my CT36 dust collector with my Makita SCMS. Most of you probably know this but it was only last night I noticed an “auto” on feature which powers the outlet on the DC. Doh! So I cut out the back of the cabinet so the 36 would fit inside, added some block supports on the floor behind the cabinet so the wheels wouldn’t roll back too far, and hooked up the hose and saw elect cord to the front of the DC. It all fits great and DC comes on and off each time I power up, then down, the saw. I’m stoked.

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    Last edited by Jon Snider; 06-06-2019 at 8:36 PM.

  7. #112
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Colorado Springs
    Posts
    236
    Ruby, the MBS shop dog, is psyched.

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  8. #113
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    SE PA - Central Bucks County
    Posts
    48,895
    Good move with the remotely controlled thermostat. I put that on my MiniSplit and it's great being able to set things up from the house before going out to work in the shop, particular during those times of the year when things are bouncing around between "pleasant" and "not nice". Today was going to be high humidity, so given I didn't want to open the doors while working and turn into a wet rag, I turned on the AC while doing my morning routine and things were quite nice when I headed out to my lair...

    Those cabinets look great!

    Now about not knowing about the auto switch on that extractor...please pardon my chuckling. I suspect Ruby was also amused...
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  9. #114
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Colorado Springs
    Posts
    236
    Spent a couple of hours in the basement setting up the main trunk dust collection trunk from the Clearvue. I used a 6” Fernco coupler b/w the plastic intake and the first piece of metal pipe, plus lots of silicone caulk.

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    Also got the remote box hooked up and verified the impeller was rotating the correct direction.

    Then connected several straight sections, several 6” Y’s for future line branches, a couple of short adjustable elbows, then up through the floor to the Y for my two slider saw ports. I thought long and hard about making the Y higher for comfort, since the two blast gates go on each leg, but decided I didn’t want to make too much of a bend in the main flex hose going back down into the 120mm port. The 4” hose will go to the overhead guard. Working on some type of metal or wood flange collar to go around the floor opening (plus of course, more caulk).

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    Also thought a little about the iVac or other automatic blast gates options, but too expensive and complex for me right now. Maybe some day. Also will need to hook up bin sensor some time down the line.

    Not it much more to post about until more tools get moved in from basement and outside storage which could be a while. Lots of travel and work in near future. Thanks to all for following.

    Jon

  10. #115
    Quote Originally Posted by Jon Snider View Post

    Also got the remote box hooked up and verified the impeller was rotating the correct direction.


    Jon
    Is the receiver for the remote in the basement on the DC or mounted on the main shop level? I will also need for my remote to control the DC in the basement from the main level. I don’t know if it will transmit through the floor. Mine is an RF transmitter that looks like yours.
    Last edited by Thomas Wilson; 06-18-2019 at 7:35 PM.

  11. #116
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Colorado Springs
    Posts
    236
    The receiver for the remote is inside of the box on the basement wall. The remote works fine through the floor for me. Clearvue gave me some distance I canít remember but it was longer than my shop dimensions. They also said theyíve tested it through walls and floors.

    It would be tough to mount the elect box in a separate location as the pigtail from the motor is only 5í long and plugs into the twist lock receptacle attached to bottom of the box. I suppose some jury rigging would make it work but I didnít put any thought into it. Itís possible a receiver could be run from the box up into the main floor area if necessary.

    I did mount the alarm/light for the bin sensor upstairs on the wall next to the table saw. This requires a wire (supplied IIRC) to the cyclone to attach the two garage door sensors, plus (if you want the cyclone to shut off when the alarm goes off) a Romex run from the alarm to the main electrical box. Also, CV recommends the alarm box be plugged into a circuit which contains no other motors. I put in a wall duplex 20amp receptacle switched to the main light circuit so it will only potentially come on when Iím inside. Bin sensors are not connected yet. For now I donít want the auto cyclone shut off, but weíll see.

    Jon

  12. #117
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Colorado Springs
    Posts
    236
    Some pics of my K700S after finally getting it all set up and cutting wood. I’m not sure if I will use, or leave on, the short crosscut fence. Any advice here?


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    A pic of the day after an enormous hail storm on Fathers Day. Weather has gone nuts here last few years.

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    Last edited by Jon Snider; 07-02-2019 at 5:51 AM.

  13. #118
    That's a nice looking saw!

  14. #119
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    SE PA - Central Bucks County
    Posts
    48,895
    John, my short crosscut/miter fence is what I primarily use! It pushes through the cut rather than pulls behind the fence like with the outrigger. It's also very comfortable for repetitious cutting including body position. The only time I use the larger outrigger fence is for larger sheet goods and really long things that would be unstable on the smaller fence, even with the extender on mine, um...extended. (My saw is a MiniMax so there may be slight differences in the fences and functions)

    For years, the short fence was the only one actually on my saw full time as I had space conflicts with the outrigger until I cut down the right side table a few years ago to be able to move the saw 16" farther from my J/P. The outrigger only went on when it actually had to be used and required crawling under it in some cases to get to the right spot for making a cut after loading the material.
    Last edited by Jim Becker; 07-02-2019 at 9:33 AM.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  15. #120
    Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Location
    Western PA
    Posts
    399
    Your weather is very strange. Last time i was in Denver/Boulder, it was mid 70s and gorgeous, then it dumped 9-10" of snow the day after i left.

    To answer your question, i guess it comes down to preference! Jim likes the short crosscut fence, and i dont have that option on my KF700, and i dont miss it. For the first couple weeks of using the machine, i would have loved the shorty. It reacts and controls just like what uou are probably used to with a crosscut sled or miter gauge. The blade pushes the material into the fence, and your hands just need to control the lateral play. With the outrigger and fence in the forward position, the material can easily be pushed off the fence registration if you arent holding or clamping it properly. I screwed up a few cuts early on because of this. It all changed when i made a fritz and franz jig. Now i just push the jig into the workpiece and there is no need for clamps or my hands to be on the workpiece. It is very quick and efficient. To me, the outrigger is great for small and large stuff. Finally, and once again i do not own the small crosscut fence, the FOG is plentiful with people discussing the inability for the small crosscut fence to hold its settings. The outrigger fence has been fantastic for me so far. I take it off every other month because my shop is small and filled with too many machines. When i put it back on and do a test cut in 1/4 ply scrap its still perfect against my woodpecker 26" square. i would make an FF jig and then see how you like to work. I guess the one good thing about both fences on the slider is you will evenly wear the slider. I rarely do a full stroke cut on my saw. Its a lot of 2"-40" cuts. The amount we will use these machines make this an absolute minimal concern.

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