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Thread: Hammer k4 vs Felder k500s vs k700s

  1. #16
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    Mark, I've even used my scoring blade with solid stock on occasion to insure that the bottom was clean. Sliders don't typically have "zero clearance" for the blade, either, so that has to be factored in. Having scoring capability means you can use it if you choose to. Not having it means it's an option that just isn't on the table...err...under the table, as the case may be.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  2. #17
    FWIW...I had a contractor cabinet saw. I sold that and bought a Hammer K3 with 79-in slider. A KF700SP recently arrived with a 3200mm slider. Both the Hammer/Felder has scoring; the latter has a dedicated motor. The scoring is very nice for cutting plywood, etc. The K3 was good with sheet goods as long as I use my track saw first. The KF700SP relegates the track saw to small tasks I find annoying to take to the slider. Going back, I would forgo the K3 and go straight for the KF700SP with the longest sliding table. Truing one edge of a full sheet of plywood or 8-ft lumber in one stroke is effortless. Haven't tried 10-ft lumber.

    The sliding action of the K3 is no where near the X-roll table. Not even close!

    With pneumatic clamps (or the F&F jig) and parallel fences, ripping solid wood is a lot safer than using a cabinet saw, though a bit more involved setting up. I am no where near the blade and stand to the side of the saw. Hands and fingers are a few feet away from the center of action. This makes the wife happy.

  3. #18
    Quote Originally Posted by Tom Bain View Post
    Just one man’s view, but if you are going to work with sheet goods even some of the time, the scoring blade is well worth the money. Do you really want to switch blades every time you switch between solid lumber and plywood? It’s one of the big advantages of going to a slider in my view. I remember when I had a conventional table saw I used to painter’s tape the cut line every time I crosscut plywood ... what a PITA.
    Good point, when i had a slider it was dedicated to sheet goods and never saw solids.

    Mkessler10@gmail.com

  4. #19
    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Becker View Post
    Mark, I've even used my scoring blade with solid stock on occasion to insure that the bottom was clean. Sliders don't typically have "zero clearance" for the blade, either, so that has to be factored in. Having scoring capability means you can use it if you choose to. Not having it means it's an option that just isn't on the table...err...under the table, as the case may be.
    Right, forgot about the no zero clearance. My previous experience with panel saws was sheet goods only including 2-3 months straight build of 8- 30’ 3’ diameter column wraps in sapele with stainless lami reveals between each 26”ish section... fun for the first week then pure hell...

    Mark

  5. #20
    Ok here is my next question.

    I am interested in using a parallel guide wich can only be used on the xroll i am told because the other table extrusions do not have the strength.

    Can the shorter crostcut fence with stop be used the same way? The only issue i see here is that how do you make sure the fence is parallel with the other at different distances from the front fence? If its not parallel the stop measurement would be off.

    Mark

  6. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mark e Kessler View Post
    Ok here is my next question.

    I am interested in using a parallel guide wich can only be used on the xroll i am told because the other table extrusions do not have the strength.

    Can the shorter crostcut fence with stop be used the same way? The only issue i see here is that how do you make sure the fence is parallel with the other at different distances from the front fence? If its not parallel the stop measurement would be off.

    Mark
    I don't get the idea that you can't use parallel guides with alternative arrangements...pretty much all of us who use sliders with solid stock use parallel guides and Fritz/Franz jigs for precision ripping on the wagon. I don't understand why the type of "bearing" would matter. Unless what you are describing is something Felder specific that I wouldn't know about...

    Using the stops on the outrigger fence in combination with the shorter miter fence (which I have on my S315WS from SCM/Minimax and have used occasionally that way) certainly demands that you have the two fences setup accurately, but that's something you want anyway. That said, this technique is a little cumbersome as compared to dedicated parallel guides or a Fritz/Franz jig because of the additional effort required to move the miter fence along the wagon to adjust for stock length.
    Last edited by Jim Becker; 03-12-2019 at 9:04 AM.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  7. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mark e Kessler View Post
    Ok here is my next question.

    I am interested in using a parallel guide wich can only be used on the xroll i am told because the other table extrusions do not have the strength.

    Can the shorter crostcut fence with stop be used the same way? The only issue i see here is that how do you make sure the fence is parallel with the other at different distances from the front fence? If its not parallel the stop measurement would be off.

    Mark
    You are correct in that we don't sell an aluminum table extension for the Hammer sliding table, we sell a steel one that's a solid top.

    You are also correct that you could use the table mounted cross cut fence in conjunction with the outrigger fence to parallel rip. That's how I do it.......Rod.

  8. #23
    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Becker View Post
    I don't get the idea that you can't use parallel guides with alternative arrangements...pretty much all of us who use sliders with solid stock use parallel guides and Fritz/Franz jigs for precision ripping on the wagon. I don't understand why the type of "bearing" would matter. Unless what you are describing is something Felder specific that I wouldn't know about...

    Using the stops on the outrigger fence in combination with the shorter miter fence (which I have on my S315WS from SCM/Minimax and have used occasionally that way) certainly demands that you have the two fences setup accurately, but that's something you want anyway. That said, this technique is a little cumbersome as compared to dedicated parallel guides or a Fritz/Franz jig because of the additional effort required to move the miter fence along the wagon to adjust for stock length.
    Not sure where you got the idea that I thought that Parallel guides could not be used in different arrangements... and I guess you mean by "pretty much all" you are referring to hobbyists?

    I will clarify that I was speaking of the Hammer and K4 (anything without Felder xroll slide) Felder told me that you should not use a long guide like the on that they sell attached to the side of the table extrusion, the slide is not designed for the cantilevered load. Which was the reason for asking about using the shorter cross cut fence which I know would work but curious on someone with experience using it this way.

    Honestly I have never used or found the need in the past for all these do-dads that everyone is using and never saw them in commercial shops that I have worked/been in, however now that I have a job that pays me money I am interested said gadgets as my skill has declined...


    mk
    Last edited by Mark e Kessler; 03-12-2019 at 3:15 PM.

  9. #24
    The Felder OEM parallel guide is heavy and does not fit a K3 sliding table. I made parallel guides for my K3. Ugly and took a couple hours to make out of plywood scraps, but work fine. I made the mounting T-nut for the slot in the sliding table out of oak and threaded the holes. I made about 8 feet of the T-nut stock and have only used about 2 feet of it. When not used as parallel guide, the extension serves as support for sheet goods, table to place tape measure, pencil, square, etc.

  10. #25
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    I guess I misunderstood...but it's been clarified that the "Felder" parallel guide setup is heavy and not recommended, rather than "parallel guide" in general. Sorry about that...
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  11. #26
    Quick update, so I decided on the k700s 110", 49" with power rise/fall of blade, on/off switch on end of slide, overhead saw guard, indicator for tilt. Deposit has been placed.


    Mark

  12. #27
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    Nice machine Mark, have fun...............Rod.

    P.S. Does it really have an off switch on the slider or 2 start pushbuttons?

  13. #28
    Rod, it is in fact an on switch and an off switch. It is no longer the remote, they have engineered some sort of sliding electrical contact...

    mark

    Quote Originally Posted by Rod Sheridan View Post
    Nice machine Mark, have fun...............Rod.

    P.S. Does it really have an off switch on the slider or 2 start pushbuttons?

  14. #29
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    Congrats, Mark! I'm sure you'll enjoy that new machine for a good long time!
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  15. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mark e Kessler View Post
    Rod, it is in fact an on switch and an off switch. It is no longer the remote, they have engineered some sort of sliding electrical contact...

    mark
    Oh, that make sense since the stop function cannot be a wireless remote.

    That will be very handy.........Rod.

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