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Thread: Question regarding annealing copper

  1. #1
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    Question regarding annealing copper

    I recently became interested in raising copper. I understand the need to soften the copper often due to work hardening.
    My question is, no matter how hot I seem to get the copper prior to dropping it in water, it always comes out dark in color aside from small areas.
    I watched a guy heat a piece of copper he had sunk and it came out of the water bright and clean.
    Do copper workers put something in the water to achieve this?
    The guy I watched did not comment as to what he used.

  2. #2
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    I thought that to harden you quenched, annealing heat them let it slowly cool, when I anneal brass cartridge cases I heat and let rest.

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    Must be due to what's in the brass, I guess.
    Copper remains soft after a dunk.

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    I'm with David, I have never quenched copper when annealing. It's always just air cooled. Quenching is just quicker I guess. Cheers
    Every construction obeys the laws of physics. Whether we like or understand the result is of no interest to the universe.

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    Not sure about the color thing, but yes you do quench the copper after heating, to anneal,

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    Quote Originally Posted by david privett View Post
    I thought that to harden you quenched, annealing heat them let it slowly cool, when I anneal brass cartridge cases I heat and let rest.
    Do you just anneal the neck where the bullet goes?
    Brass has metals that require slow cooling or they get hard.
    Pure copper, as I understand, can be done either way.

    I just couldn't understand how the one copper smith got it completely clean and shiny by heating and dropping in water. Mine never come out that way.
    I thought he may add something to the water to clean the copper as it cools it.

  7. #7
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    yes I put the case bottoms in a pan with just a little bit of water in it (just to cover the rim , extractor grove) and use a propane torch on the shoulders till they change color and let air cool. I do this when I reform brass like when I make .223 into 7 tcu.

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    Quote Originally Posted by david privett View Post
    yes I put the case bottoms in a pan with just a little bit of water in it (just to cover the rim , extractor grove) and use a propane torch on the shoulders till they change color and let air cool. I do this when I reform brass like when I make .223 into 7 tcu.
    I reload 22-250, but I've never annealed them. I would just lube them real good and resize the neck while just lightly touching the shoulder. Then trim the end.
    Never had a case crack, but the most any of mine have been reloaded is maybe somewhere between 8 and 10 times. And my rifle prefers light loads, which makes life easier for the brass.

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    standard reloading I do not think it is necessary ,unless the chamber is oversized then maybe one or two extra reloading times you might get out of a case if full length resizing is required (have a .303 this way), but reforming a case it is a must for me.

  10. #10
    I work copper as well, I was taught to use 'pickle' as the cleaner/quench. Brand name is Sparex, or you can make your own by using Ph Down pool chemical. Works better if it's heated, but room temp works, just takes a bit longer. Annealed copper comes out bright pink.
    Mike

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    Thank you all for your responces.

  12. #12
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    Copper is annealed by heating to dull red heat. Then it is allowed to cool. The rate of cooling makes no difference so quench or air cool is the same result. Iron the cooling rate makes a huge difference.
    PS: AFAIK gold is the only metal that does not work harden.
    Bill D

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    Cannot find sparex locally. Are most other products to lower ph the same, such as PH Down?

  14. #14
    Quote Originally Posted by Bill Jobe View Post
    Cannot find sparex locally. Are most other products to lower ph the same, such as PH Down?
    I use pool chemical from Walmart. AquaChem pH Decreaser Dry Acid.
    Mike

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    Quote Originally Posted by david privett View Post
    standard reloading I do not think it is necessary ,unless the chamber is oversized then maybe one or two extra reloading times you might get out of a case if full length resizing is required (have a .303 this way), but reforming a case it is a must for me.
    It is not necessary but it will greatly increase the life of rifled cases. 223 is cheap enough its not worth it but expensive cases should be done every 3 loadings. The case neck getting sized down and expanding over and over creates a work hardand case kind of like a card scraper where you have remove the edge after every few time you put a burr on it.

    That being said I dont anneal because i shoot mostly pistol 223,308 which are all cheap and abbundant. 6.5 grendel I have enough to get me by and 7.62x39 I buy

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