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Thread: Drawers slide open on router table when moving across slanted garage floor. Help!

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
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    San Francisco, CA
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    10,304
    There are retrofit soft-close add-ons for drawers. For instance https://www.wwhardware.com/soft-clos...t-close-add-on

  2. #17
    This might sound obvious, but how about you roll the cabinet with the drawers on the uphill side of you slanted floor?

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
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    MT
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    698
    The soft-close add-ons Jamie mentions seem like a promising solution, and unobtrusive.

    One other thought I had was to use bullet catches between the top of the drawers and the face frame. They wouldn't be that hard to mortise in, and wouldn't be seen.

    Good Luck.

    Edit: After looking at the photos again, the catches would have to be on the sides but should work.
    Last edited by Kris Cook; 03-04-2019 at 10:35 AM. Reason: add info
    Regards,

    Kris

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Aug 2018
    Location
    Michigan, USA
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    548
    Here are a few thoughts:

    1) A narrow strip of wood the length of the left side of the drawer case, with a small dowel or maybe a metal pin for each drawer that would slide through the side of the drawer case and into a hole in the edge of each drawer front. It would end up looking like the left side of the drawer case is double thickness. Might need magnets to keep the strip in place.

    2) A narrow strip of wood with a slot down the middle attached to the top of the drawer case, maybe with a lag screw and washer, near the right-hand side of the drawers. Hanging down, it keeps the drawers from sliding out. To unlock, pivot it 90* counter clockwise and slide it left, along the top of the drawer case. Would need some type of clip or support to keep it in place there - maybe a dowel in the left side of the drawer case?

    3) A variation on Kris's suggestion - put a pivoting tab on the top of the drawer case and on the bottom of the face of the three top drawers. The tab at the top keeps the first drawer in, and the tabs on the drawer fronts each keep the drawer below in place. Probably not the most aesthetically pleasing approach, and it doesn't give you a single mechanism for the entire set of drawers, but I think it would work.

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
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    Marina del Rey, Ca
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    1,934
    The problem is the ball bearing slides. Replace them.
    "Anything seems possible when you don't know what you're doing."

  6. #21
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Boston
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    1,740
    Consider buying a mobile stand that locks into place. You can level the feet so the table will be level when it’s locked in place. It maybe the same cost as replacing the slides.
    Don

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Feb 2017
    Location
    Northern Illinois
    Posts
    943
    I have one shop cabinet with the same problem. All my others are just fine and the same slides are in at least 2 of them. I've come to the conclusion that the problem is with the slides being installed either slightly too far inside the face of the cabinet or slightly too far forward (haven't figured out which because I would have to take all the drawers out and adjust the slides on the faulty ones). However, there is a slight indentation or bump in the slide which, I believe, is designed to hold the drawer shut and this feature isn't engaging on the faulty slides. On the ones that stay shut, I can feel it when it is shut. On the faulty ones, that same little "catch" when I close them isn't there.

  8. #23
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    My drum sander stand will do that with the heavier drawers. I just stand in front of the drawer area when I am moving it, let them come out till they bump against me and then bump them closed when I get to where I am going. I suppose you could incline the slides or replace them with ones that have a stronger detente. Any sort of drop-rod or latching mechanism would bug me way more than bumping the drawers back closed ;-)
    "A hen is only an egg's way of making another egg".


    – Samuel Butler

  9. #24
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
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    Falls Church, VA
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    how about child proofing the cabinets. There are lots of drawer products out there.
    or
    +1 on the magnet idea. there are lots of ways to skin the cat with magnets. I would be a fan of using very strong rare earth magnets but not letting them contact each other. You would have to play with the gap to find one where the drawer stays closed but doesn't take a violent tug to open.

  10. #25

    Problem solved. Thanks to everyone

    Thanks everyone for the suggestions. My problem has been solved. I spent some time looking and looking at it and I thought I would try a variation on the pin and rare earth magnet. I have some 2" chromed pins that are slightly smaller than 5/32" in diameter that I salvaged from an old organ years ago so I drilled 5/32" holes through the oak trim and into the drawer face a little over 2" deep on the right side of the carcass. The pins slide in easy with very little play and sits just a hare into the trim so that it doesn't stick out. Drawers are very securely held closed and the rare earth magnet easily pulls the pin out. Just 4 small holes on the end of the carcass is all that shows. I'm quite happy the way this turned out. Again, thank you guys for all of your thoughts and suggestions. Here's some pictures

    Kim
    Attached Images Attached Images

  11. #26
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Location
    MT
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    698
    Cool. Glad you figured it out.
    Regards,

    Kris

  12. #27
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
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    In the foothills of the Sandia Mountains
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    16,619
    Good solution. Wood moves, a quick release or linch pin would be a safer solution.
    Please help support the Creek.


    "It's paradoxical that the idea of living a long life appeals to everyone, but the idea of getting old doesn't appeal to anyone."
    Andy Rooney



  13. #28
    Join Date
    Jul 2016
    Location
    Lebanon, TN
    Posts
    1,719
    Apologize if this has been mentioned, you can buy drawer locks that can be mounted on the sides of the drawer cabinet and a pin extends out the back and into the drawer when locked.


  14. #29
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Northwest Ohio
    Posts
    98
    Try these: https://www.wwhardware.com/kv-8400-r...ure-kv8400-brv

    A few bucks more than most, but they work.

  15. #30
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    Upland CA
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    5,547
    I know I am late to the party, but thought I would jump in anyway.

    I had the same problem. My drawers were full of routers (not bits), and were heavy enough the whole thing tried to tip over once. I cheaped out and just used window screen holders that look like wing nuts. Picture the swiveling stick that locks an old outhouse door.

    Works great.
    Rick Potter

    DIY journeyman,
    FWW wannabe.
    AKA Village Idiot.

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