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Thread: Making A Hammer Jointer Table Slicker

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Three Rivers, Central Oregon
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    2,340
    Johnson paste wax and let it haze over before wiping off. And I agree with Eric....you don't need excessive downward pressure, just enough to allow the cutters to do the work. And remember to wax the fence as well, it can be just as grippy when edge jointing wide stock.
    Scott Vroom

    I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Toronto Ontario
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    11,272
    I use the semi solid Gleit.

    If you’re using the spray bottle just spray it on lightly, don’t wipe it off.

    The spiral head requires more push than the straight knife head, you’ll get accustomed to it.....Rod.
    Last edited by Rod Sheridan; 03-04-2019 at 8:31 AM. Reason: Replced accosted with accustomed

  3. #18
    Hi Rod

    I got accosted once.

    I've found temp and humidity of your shop are a starting point. When my shop is at its worst then stuff slides the worst. When its warmer and dryer things slide better. If i compare three machines and how stuff slides the smoothest of them all is no worse than others. Say a SCM120 that is very smooth, a T130 that still has machine marks in it and an older SCM that has the scalloped table which is supposed to reduce friction. From machine to machine the steel is not the same. The stuff on the super smooth machine slides just as easily if not better than the other two that should slide better. Its like its a different and higher quality steel.

    Never used more than just whatever wax is around. Last time some liquid auto wax a synthetic. Put it on with a burgandy scotchbrite leave it till it flashes off and wipe with a microfibre or even paper towel. Have done a few hundred feet of 8' wide white pine and it still slides nicely. Ill have to try at some point using the auto buffer on it just to see if there are any positives from that, just going over the wax with that rather than by hand.
    Last edited by Warren Lake; 03-03-2019 at 3:48 PM.

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Toronto Ontario
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    11,272
    Quote Originally Posted by Warren Lake View Post
    Hi Rod

    I got accosted once.

    .
    Haha, good catch, thanks Warren, I've corrected my post. Darn auto spell check..........Rod.

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Deep South
    Posts
    3,970
    I experienced the same problem with my Jet JJP-12HH, but the top grind had a different pattern than your machine. Of course, my fix may not be appropriate for your machine. I fixed the problem by wet sanding with 220 grit and WD-40, cleaning carefully and waxing with Johnson's paste wax. It took a fair amount of sanding to get it right. Originally, the top felt like sandpaper. I think it is a bad design, even knowing why they did it that way. I wax again every now and then to keep the bed slick and rust free.

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Location
    Marina del Rey, Ca
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    1,937
    The right product is "Topcote", first produced by Sandaro, then Bostik, and now called "GlideCote". I first clean the top thoroughly with acetone, then apply Topcote and let dry for 10-15 minutes before burnishing with a soft rag.

    https://www.jdindustrialsupply.com/topcote.html
    "Anything seems possible when you don't know what you're doing."

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Canada
    Posts
    177
    Quote Originally Posted by andy bessette View Post
    The right product is "Topcote", first produced by Sandaro, then Bostik, and now called "GlideCote". I first clean the top thoroughly with acetone, then apply Topcote and let dry for 10-15 minutes before burnishing with a soft rag.

    https://www.jdindustrialsupply.com/topcote.html
    Andy, Topcote works too but like applying paste takes way to long when you are trying to make money with no added benefit. By the time you find your acetone and rag my wood is being processed. These traditional methods are OK in the hobby world where time is of no consequence but those in a production environment the Supergleit puts money in your pocket.

  8. #23
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Location
    Marina del Rey, Ca
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    1,937
    Quote Originally Posted by John Kee View Post
    Andy, Topcote works too but like applying paste takes way to long when you are trying to make money with no added benefit. By the time you find your acetone and rag my wood is being processed. These traditional methods are OK in the hobby world where time is of no consequence but those in a production environment the Supergleit puts money in your pocket.
    This is the first I've even heard of Supergleit, so have no experience with that product. And, while certainly far from being organized, I at least know where my acetone and rag (and Topcote) are stored. Though I do no production work, I have been a professional woodworker and boat builder for over 40 years. Yet I still find time to more or less maintain my machines, even though that task doesn't literally put money in my pocket.

    The way I discovered Topcote was when my thickness plane began to have trouble feeding material through. All it needed was cleaning and coating the platen.
    "Anything seems possible when you don't know what you're doing."

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