First try Ryoba; updated advice?

[bill epstein]

I've decided to give a Japanese saw a try and after searching here and elsewhere, think a 210 mm Ryoba just for joinery is a good start. Thing is, all I can see doing are tenons and dovetails and the saws at Woodcraft, Japanese Woodworker, etc. all spec 8 TPI for ripping.

Does pulling instead of pushing make that low tooth count enough?

[Jim Matthews]

Tooth count matters less than sharpness.

If the pressure applied is light, and the angle of "attack" allows for a chip to be ejected from the kerf - any tooth size will cut.

In practice, more smaller teeth mean smoother action per stroke. Be aware that learning to cut harder (North American, anyway) woods can be frustrating.

See Brian Holcombe's excellent tutorials on the task.
(Hear the sound as the saw begins to cut, in earnest.)

https://youtu.be/3rzNsqA4Kfc

[Jim Koepke]

The hardest part for me to learn with Japanese saws is to use both hands and pull toward my center.

My understanding is there is more involvement of spiritual philosophy in traditional eastern woodworking.

All things have a spirit. When working with wood the spirit is pulled (directed) to the one working the wood. (or something of that nature)

This is about the extent of what insight into such has come my way and it could have been something someone made up after a few beers.

jtk

[bill epstein]

Must be the Beer.

Asians pulling saws and plains has to do with using one's feet to hold the work, no?

[Tom Bender]

I have three Asian saws. My favorite is a small flush cut saw.

I also have a back saw and a flexible saw. The back saw is better for general work (small scale stuff) but is getting dull and has a few broken teeth (my teething issues) and needs to be replaced.