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Thread: Glue spreaders

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    SE PA - Central Bucks County
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    65,688
    I have a few flat, flexible "plasticy" things for spreading wide areas and use inexpensive "acid" brushes for edges. Sometimes, I just grab a scrap of wood. LOL
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    WNY
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    9,648
    Quote Originally Posted by Nick Decker View Post
    I have that glue roller and use it often. Works great for me, although I sometimes wish it was larger. I don't use it to apply glue, just to spread it out once it's squeezed out on the surface.
    Thanks for your input Nick. Gives me hope it will work, and significantly cut down on glue usage (and $'s). Many glue-ups only need 100 gms of resin. 60 gms more just for the roller is quite a waste.

    John

  3. #18
    I've tried almost every object that could possibly smear glue. This has become my go to.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Central, PA
    Posts
    416
    Glue brushes from Woodcraft.

  5. #20
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Wenatchee. Wa
    Posts
    769
    Old credit cards cut with pinking shears. Makes a great serrated edge and very cleanable. Do not use wife's good ones. DAHIK. Bought wife new one and shop inherited old pair.

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    NE Florida
    Posts
    299
    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Becker View Post
    I have a few flat, flexible "plasticy" things for spreading wide areas and use inexpensive "acid" brushes for edges. Sometimes, I just grab a scrap of wood. LOL
    I save a lot of scrap slivers from ripping wood to size for either glue applicators or paint(finish) paddles. For dovetails, I find acid brushes work best. For mortises, I find the wood slithers work great. For larger surfaces, I use a putty knife. In most cases, I will start by applying the glue with the squirt bottle, then spread the glue out with the applicator.
    Chris

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    San Francisco, CA
    Posts
    10,304
    Finger for edge gluing.
    For getting glue into mortises, domino holes, and biscuit holes, the end of a six-inch machinist's rule. I already have it at hand, so there's no cost to it.
    For spreading glue over large areas, it depends upon what glue. For ordinary wood glue, I use a toothed trowel. It is a steel one with small teeth, intended for spreading adhesive under linoleum. For smaller areas, I make a toothed trowel from a dead credit card. I just notch the edges with a bandsaw; no need to acquire pinking shears for the shop. For spreading epoxy, which I now use for most veneering and laminating, I use a paint roller. The nap on the roller cover is as short as I can find. I generally buy 8" covers, and cut them into 4" ones.

  8. #23
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    WNY
    Posts
    9,648
    Oh, you were right about it being small. Very small. The roller is only about 1-1/2" wide. That sure wasn't obvious from the picture. Anyway, it's too small for doing panels, but might be great for spreading glue on edge glue ups.

    I wish I could find something like it but 4 - 5" wide and 1 - 2" diameter.

    John

  9. #24
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Evanston, IL
    Posts
    1,424
    For edge gluing I often run a glue bead down one piece sitting with the glue edge facing up, then rub the mating piece over it a bit to spread the glue evenly on both pieces. I either manipulate the top board to cover any bare spots or use my finger.
    For most other joints, I use the small plastic paddles or a small strip of wood that I cut from appropriately sized off-cuts every now and then when I run low.
    For dovetails, I use the plastic paddles or acid brushes.
    My fingers almost always get involved in the process and the front of my jeans usually shows evidence that I wipe the glue off without thinking.

  10. #25
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    On the edge of Pisgah National Forest
    Posts
    236
    No one likes the 3 piece set of spreaders sold alongside Bondo? Just the thing for Urea Resin when I do veneer. Unlike Bondo though, the hardened resin doesn't just flake off, you have to keep ahead of it.

    PVA I use the 4" hard rubber roller I bought I know not where after pouring or squirting it on the work piece. Acid brushes or fingers for the nooks and crannies.

    Just as in life, everything works sometimes.

  11. #26
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Duvall, WA
    Posts
    706
    I'll use a finger to spread the glue if I'm edge-joining anything up to 3/4-inch. For M&Ts and similar surfaces, either an acid brush or a cheapie chip brush (pictured below, I think they use pig hair) with the hairs cut short. And if it's a wide surface, like a veneer or a face gluing of some kind, then I'll use a square notched spreader with something like a 1/16-inch notch (pictured).

    paint-brushes-1500-3-64_1000.jpg sqNotchSpreader.PNG

  12. #27
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Posts
    547
    Blog Entries
    1
    For edge gluing, I like a palette knife:

    https://www.woodcraft.com/products/w...knives-4pc-set

    For larger glueups I use a medium density glue roller designed for veneering:

    https://www.veneersupplies.com/produ...ue-Roller.html

    Mike

  13. #28
    It's so dry in the shop in the winter, when I do most of my woodworking, that thinly spread glue can dry before I get the pieces together. Normally I don't spread woodworking glue prior to assembly. I lay medium sized lines across the surface, guessing how much would be needed to make an even coat, and then put the pieces together. For edge gluing I rub the joint up and down a little before applying the clamps. Since I get a little squeeze out top and bottom. I'm pretty sure I am getting an even coating. For joints like mortice and tenon, I apply glue to the tenon, more towards the end and put them together. For dovetails and finger joints, I dab some glue on the end of the fingers and slide them together. I haven't had any joint failures, so I presume this method is working

    If I have a particularly large or complicated glue up, I use liquid hide glue if I can, since it has a much longer open time and doesn't dry out as fast.

  14. #29
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Location
    Florida
    Posts
    1,950
    Love that little silicone glue roller linked above too. Wish I had a few sizes of them for various things.

  15. #30
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Evanston, IL
    Posts
    1,424
    I have the veneer supplies foam roller linked above, but it is a bit of a hassle to clean so I use it only when really needed. Based on the recommendations here, I just ordered the silicone roller from Amazon and look forward to trying it. Thanks.

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