Yet another table top thread

[Leonard King]

I posted a counter top that i did in another Sapele thread. While i like the look of the varnish, though it is a little shiny. I have a few questions.
1. I used Waterlox original Seal and Finish. 10 wipe on coats. It looked great. Shiny but great. It has dulled down a bit but it already has a few scratches in it. Could probably fix it with more waterlox, but to me it is already looking kinda plasticy. How would i go about dulling it down a bit? Will dulling it down hide some scratches? You can see them but not deep enough to feel them. Truthfully i was a little disappointed at the "toughness" of the Waterlox after all the positive comments on it.

2. Next dilemma, I have a dinning table and a coffey table to build. Both will see heavy use, i think i will pass on the waterlox on the next builds. I was thinking Post cat conversion varnish of the Sherwin Williams variety or on the opposite end of the spectrum may be a oil varnish blend, something easy to repair. Will the SW Post cat CV be as durable as i think? Would the oil varnish blend be durable enough for a table.
I know i looking for a magic pen, but i certainly don't want to not be able to use the table or worry about every plate or glass left on it for thirty minutes.

I think i have read every "table top thread" i could find on sawmill and others. What seems to be durable for one is terrible for the next. Any advice would be appreciated.
Thanks,
L.T.

[John TenEyck]

1) You can lower the sheen of Waterlox several ways. The traditional way to get a satin finish is to rub it with 0000 steel wool. The newer way, is to use auto polishing compounds, sheet abrasives, or Micromesh, etc. Steel wool works just fine IMO. Rub the table top parallel with the grain using paste wax or soapy water as a lube. And a satin sheen will hide more scratches than gloss.

2) Waterlox is pretty darned durable but it takes a long time to cure and still won't be as hard as some other finishes. Conversion varnish would be a good choice but recognize that repairs won't be easy. Oil/varnish mixes are easy to repair but not nearly as durable as Waterlox. A 2K Poly would be super durable but, again, not easily repaired. No magic pens. My advise is to give the Waterlox on your countertop a chance for a few weeks after you dull it down to satin and then decide which way to go on the new projects.

John

[Wayne Lomman]

I highly recommend a 2K polyurethane. It is tough, durable and water etc won't affect it. You can get it in a range of gloss levels. It has a fairly high solids content so 2 or 3 coats is all that is required depending on how full you want the finish. You get full performance even with an open grain appearance. It is recoatable in the event of serious damage. You will need to find your own supplier as you will have access to different brands to me. Apply it with good ventilation and wear an appropriate respirator. Cheers

[Leonard King]

Since my counter is way past 30 days old and doesn't smell ill try the rubbing with steel wood.
Wayne do you have experience with the Sherwin Williams brand 2k Stuff i think its Sayerlack. Pretty much anything else would have to be mail ordered for me.
L.T.

[Jim Becker]

Wayne is on the other side of the world from North America if that's where you are based on the SW reference, so his product selections may be very different...

[John TenEyck]

SW's does have a Sayerlack solvent based 2K Poly:

https://oem.sherwin-williams.com/pro...droplus-tzl71/

Nothing WB as far as I can see, though.

John

[Wayne Lomman]

Sorry Leonard, I can comment on techniques and categories of coatings but brands are entirely different. As Jim pointed out I am on the other side of the world in totally different regulatory environment.

As to sourcing coatings, check auto paint suppliers and check regional distribution centres as to who has what as well as where you are looking now.

Just out of curiosity, does mail ordering coatings fall under dangerous goods regulations where you are? I live in Tasmania where mail ordering anything liquid/chemical is eye-wateringly expensive. It is much better and cheaper to go through a distributor who brings in a dangerous goods container by ship every week. Cheers

[Bill McNiel]

Leonard -

FWIW- I use Waterlox a lot, I find it to be a beautiful and easy to apply finish and really like the slight amber tone. The one wood countertop in my shop is finished with Waterlox and constantly has a sweating glass or bottle on it to show my clients how durable it actually is. The main downside is curing time, while most projects are good after 30 days, I have had the odd project that has taken months (yes, multiple months) to fully cure. I've never been able to drill down as to the cause but believe me I have a table top that took almost 4 months before I was able to rub it out successfully.

I use MicroMesh, with a very light soapy water lubricant, to rub out Waterlox. It is a simple process that allows me to start with a matt finish and then go up through the "grits" until I achieve the sheen that my client and I desire. If the finish "balls" at all it is not fully cured and not ready for rub out.

hope this helps a bit - Bill