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Thread: Knock-Down Hardware for Bed Application

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
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    SE PA - Central Bucks County
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    Knock-Down Hardware for Bed Application

    I'm about to receive a deposit on a Twin-XL over Queen "bunk bed" for a client's sea shore vacation home and it will obviously be a knock-down design for transport and the ability to get it into the home environment. Aside from traditional bed-bolts, I'm curious to know what "more contemporary" solutions for this have proven successful with makers for a bed application. This question was honestly spurred by a promotional email from McFeely's about a new knock-down hardware product line they are carrying and I do have an inquiry into the manufacturer to see if it's got the correct type of strength...it's not so much about weight handling as it is about "activity" handling, as it were.

    What have you used successfully for this kind of project that provides a clean and strong knock-down connection that also "disappears"?
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
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    Johannesburg, ZA
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    Jim, Festool Domino DX700 connectors with mortises above and below the connector on the ends of each rail will be solid and strong. The mortises will have domino tenons glued into the rails and not glued into the corresponding mortises on the posts (legs). The connector will pull it all together in a rigid joint.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jun 2014
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    Western PA
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    I used the XL connectors on a king bed frame, and they work very well.


    Hit post instead of the advance tab before i was finished. The bed is probably 8 months old at this point, and i recently went around every connection to see if the festool connectors loosened over time and needed tigtened. They did not. Dont know if you or a local friend has an XL, but it would be worth borrowing one for the project. Another thing to consider is the client assembling the bed onsite with ikea-esque hardware versus the Festool solution.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by Patrick Kane; 02-27-2019 at 5:32 PM.

  4. #4
    I agree with the Domino XL connectors. 6 months later and still solid as can be on my king size bed.

    Marty

    IMG_0311.jpg

  5. #5
    I've build 2 beds using these:
    http://www.leevalley.com/us/hardware...306,41319&ap=1

    Although I also supplemented them with dominos (using the dominos to carry the "down" load, and those Lee Valley parts to provide the "pull together" force).

    They worked great and I'd recommend them, but I'd probably use the domino connectors, if I were doing it, today.

  6. #6
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    I do have a Domino 700XL so I'm glad to see that option is on the list.

    Dan, I did look at those...thanks for mentioning them.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  7. #7
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    I've built six beds in the past two years. For the most part, I used connector bolts with 1/4-20 threads, and brass threaded inserts. I always leave the bed with an allen wrench set.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Pacific Northwest
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    Quote Originally Posted by John Patric View Post
    Jim, Festool Domino DX700 connectors with mortises above and below the connector on the ends of each rail will be solid and strong. The mortises will have domino tenons glued into the rails and not glued into the corresponding mortises on the posts (legs). The connector will pull it all together in a rigid joint.
    Jim, I just used the connectors on a King size bed and couldn’t be more pleased. I figure they’re about $4 per connection. I used two per rail (one on each end)

  9. #9
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    Yea, after doing some more reading/research on the Connectors which honestly just slipped my mind, I think that's going to be the way to go for this project and 14mm Dominos are perfect for the particular design of this construction. I wasn't fond of the idea of drilling a deep hole into the side pieces for traditional bed-bolts...which I actually have used in the past for beds I built for my nieces. I appreciate everyone's input here.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  10. #10
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    I'm surprised at how many of you have the Domino XL, which costs $1400.

  11. #11

    Knock down hardware

    I am not a pro but three years ago I built a queen size bed for our master bedroom and a twin size for one of the kids. The queen is made from hickory and is a platform design (no box spring). The head and foot of the bed connect to the rails with knock-down hardware (wrought iron fully mortised heavy duty bed rail fasteners from Rockler) The rails have a rabbet machined in the inside lip to support 4/4 poplar cross supports for the mattress. Also supporting the poplar supports are two 8/4 oak beams which are in unglued dovetails machined into the header and footer, so those run parallel to the rails. The rails are 8/4 hickory. I used #8 x 4” stainless steel screws in the rails and 1.5” long screws in the legs to attach the hardware. I was wary of screws in end-grain in the rails, but so far no issues at all. This bed is way, way overbuilt and extremely heavy. The twin size bed I built with the same fasteners, but the rails are only 6/4 poplar - also no issues.

    https://www.rockler.com/heavy-duty-w...SABEgLQ_PD_BwE

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    Canton, MI
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    529
    I just used the XL connectors as well and they worked perfectly. Keep in mind the minimum material sizes as you design the bed. I bought the whole Systainer full of the connectors, more than I’ll use in a lifetime. Let me know if you’d like some.

  13. #13
    Quote Originally Posted by Jamie Buxton View Post
    I'm surprised at how many of you have the Domino XL, which costs $1400.
    I only have the "small" Domino, and now regret not buying the XL. If I did another bed (or anything that would benefit from the Domino connectors), I'd trade up to the Domino XL.

  14. #14
    I've built 8 beds over the years. i tried "bed hardware" on early ones and they all eventually required rework. (The beds were all for active offspring...) I now use stub tenons on the rails that fit into shallow mortices on the posts. Everything is cinched tight with 2 bolts per post. A bed built like this will not rack and not squeak. All were considered "fine furniture" and the bolts were either hidden or unobtrusive.

    if you try the bed hardware route, install it and then move the frame, I bet there is enough play to allow a lot of racking. it will only get worse.

  15. #15
    For what it’s worth....the particular hardware that I used has been rock-solid. Bed frames still feel like one piece. Perhaps due to the thickness and height of the rails, but both bed frames resist all manner of racking forces. Maybe it’ll be different in a couple more years. If so I can rework with the domino XL connectors!

    SB

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