Motor cover issue - will this work?

[Mark Katz]

Every once in a while I need to remove the motor cover from my Delta 36-755 cabinet saw because I dropped the arbor nut or flange while changing blades. The cover is held on by 6 hex-head self-tapping screws.

Getting the cover off is no problem - zip, zip, zip with a ratcheting nutdriver and it's off. Getting it back on is another thing - try to hold the heavy cover in place with one hand while placing the first screw in place with the other, all the while on my ancient knees.

Here's what I'm thinking of doing.
Drill out the holes in the saw and cover if necessary.
Epoxy short (1/2" or maybe 5/8") truss-head machine screws into each of the mounting holes on the saw, threads pointing out.
Reinstall the motor cover on the protruding screws - should be easy to line up and the screws will hold the cover until I ...
Tighten the cover in place with cap nuts (acorn nuts).

Anyone see any problems with this approach? Any suggestions on what kind of epoxy to use? I'm assuming a slow set would be better than the 5-minute variety.

If it works, removing and replacing the motor cover should be a lot easier.

[Jacob Reverb]

Tighten the cover in place with cap nuts (acorn nuts).

I'd use wing nuts with spring washers (or nylock nuts).

[Mark Katz]

I'd use wing nuts with spring washers (or nylock nuts).

Good point - wasn't considering the vibration. Can nylock nuts be removed and replaced repeatedly (maybe every few months)?

[John K Jordan]

Some fasteners on farm equipment are done that way, except the heads of the bolts are tack welded instead of epoxied. If epoxying, I'd just make sure both surfaces were clean, maybe scuffed up a bit with sandpaper if slick and wiped with alcohol. I always use 30 min or 1 hr epoxy except on temporary things. Should hold OK if you don't crank down way too hard with the nuts. If the cabinet metal wasn't too thin you could drill and tap for the machine screw - even one thread plus the epoxy should hold better.

Another option which would leave the original holes and screws is to drill a couple of small holes somewhere near the top (and in the cover) and put in a couple of pins to hang the cover on while you got the existing screws started. These could also be bolts epoxied or as mentioned above, perhaps even drill, tap, and screw in short bolts from the inside - since there would be no nuts and twisting force on those bolts they wouldn't need much to keep them in place. If I did that I might grind the ends a bit to round and smooth. I might also use a larger diameter than a typical machine screw. I've also seen smooth indexing pins with shoulders and threads that could be inserted in holes from the front and held with a nut inside but I don't know where to get them. They have slots on the ends to hold with a screwdriver while tightening the nut or fastening into a threaded hole.

[Tom M King]

I use a long, mechanic's little pickup tool, with a small magnet on the end. It has a built in LED light in the end of it. It'll find the nut even buried under sawdust.

[Jacob Reverb]

Good point - wasn't considering the vibration. Can nylock nuts be removed and replaced repeatedly (maybe every few months)?

I don't see why not. Or use the lock washer setup. The belt shroud on my PM contractor's saw is that way and it never comes loose.

[glenn bradley]

I use a long, mechanic's little pickup tool, with a small magnet on the end. It has a built in LED light in the end of it. It'll find the nut even buried under sawdust.

Yes, this. If I dropped the nut that often I might use the two magnets and a piece of string idea I saw in one of the mags; glue or epoxy the ends of a quality string to two small rarer earth magnets. When you are taking the nut off stick one magnet to the end of the arbor and the other to your table top. If you fumble the nut, the string catches it.

[Jacob Reverb]

...glue or epoxy the ends of a quality string to two small rarer earth magnets. When you are taking the nut off stick one magnet to the end of the arbor and the other to your table top. If you fumble the nut, the string catches it.

Neat idea.

Every time I've used a magnetic pickup tool around something like a machine or engine, I've stuck the magnet to everything except what I was fishing for...

[Bill Dufour]

I would tap the cabinet and use loctite or epoxy on the studs when first installing them. What are you going to do if a stud spins? Drill it out will be slow work as it spins under the drill.
You probably only need to modify two on top to hang it from while installing.
Bill D

[Patrick Kane]

Dont know the model number, but assume this is a unisaw. My unisaw's motor cover had a piano hinge on the rear side, so you only had to swing it out of the way to access the interior. Why not attach a hinge to your motor cover and bolt that to the cabinet?

[Frank Pratt]

I too vote for putting on a hinge. I like to be able to easily access the interior for what ever reason.

[Greg Parrish]

On my prior saw I put machine screws from inside to out, with a small nut to hold them. Then slip the cover over and apply a wing nut. Worked great for easy access without tools.
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[Mark Katz]

On my prior saw I put machine screws from inside to out, with a small nut to hold them. Then slip the cover over and apply a wing nut. Worked great for easy access without tools.

I thought of that but that holds the cover one nut's thickness away from the cabinet. I'm doing (or at least trying to do) dust collection so I try to minimize cabinet openings. The dust collection port is directly below the motor cover.

To those who suggested adding some pins separate from the existing screws - that's a great idea which I might pursue. Will still need to mount those from the outside. That also solves the problem Bill Dufour brought up about the case of the stud spinning - if it's only positioning the cover and not holding it in place it shouldn't be a big problem if one gets loose.

Thanks for the good ideas, folks. better than my orignal proposal.

[Greg Parrish]

You are right and I forgot to point out that I put a strip of foam weather striping along the inside edges of the cover. The rolled stick on stuff you buy at the hardware store. It cushions the cover from rattle and also seals the small gap.

I thought of that but that holds the cover one nut's thickness away from the cabinet. I'm doing (or at least trying to do) dust collection so I try to minimize cabinet openings. The dust collection port is directly below the motor cover.

To those who suggested adding some pins separate from the existing screws - that's a great idea which I might pursue. Will still need to mount those from the outside. That also solves the problem Bill Dufour brought up about the case of the stud spinning - if it's only positioning the cover and not holding it in place it shouldn't be a big problem if one gets loose.

Thanks for the good ideas, folks. better than my orignal proposal.