Power feeder set up question on tablesaw

[David Koehler]

Thanks to all. I got some time to mess with it today and after clamping the fence and using minimum toe in, the burning is very slight.
I'll play with feed speeds next.

[Rod Sheridan]

Thanks to all. I got some time to mess with it today and after clamping the fence and using minimum toe in, the burning is very slight.
I'll play with feed speeds next.

Hi, for a good quality rip cut you're looking at 0.008" to 0.012" chip load range.

At 0.008" with a 30 tooth blade, that's 72 feet per minute. Your saw wouldn't have enough power for thicker material at those feed rates, run it at the highest rate you can for your motor power......Rod.

[Mark Bolton]

We run a similar blade to you but not a glue line rip. We run a full kerf heavy plate 24T ripping blade (and can typically go straight to glue up off that blade). Glue line rip blades are sold in my opinion with the assumption they are going to be hand fed (to slow, starts and stops, and trying to compete with a jointed edge). But with fast, and consistent, feed from the feeder the glue line rip isnt essential. If you get your fence toe correct, your feeder toe correct, and your feed speed high enough (hopefully riving knife on your saw so you can run the feeder as fast as the motor will handle), you should be OK.

An option that is hard to find for cheap depending on your material thickness is to find some thick plate small diameter blades that you can run on your TS and still get through the stock. Wont work for thick material but for 4/4 and 5/4 you can often times run a 7.25 or 8.25 thick kerf blade and its almost like doubling your saws horsepower and your still at 24-30T. You'll get less chance of blade flutter, may have to reduce your feed by a hair but you'd be able to feed non stop and never overcome the saw. Blades wont last as long between resharps but its an option.

We run a lot of smaller diameter thick blades when were breaking down tons of 4/4. Takes a lot of misery off the motor.

[William Hodge]

You can put a dial indicator against the right side of the fence, at the outfeed end, to see what deflection you get during a cut.

I have found that tightening the set screws on my Beisemeyer fence, and running the feeder without huge downward pressure, works fine. Toe in is 1/4".

Latly I have been ripping with a 12" Freud crosscut blade. It has a lot of teeth, and doesn't leave deep saw marks. The saw is 7 1/2 hp.

Measuring the ripped wood width with a dial caliper, both ends and the middle, will let you know if you have a problem that needs solving.