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Thread: Floating frame for stained glass work

  1. #1
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    Floating frame for stained glass work

    Hi all,

    Got an interesting request from someone. They wanted a floating frame for their glass artwork. I've made floating frames before for thick canvas. It's easy to make one because the bottom of the artwork sits on the bottom of the frame and you create the effect by making the frame a little larger than the artwork.

    However, with a piece of glass, I'm not sure how to hold the glass. All I can think of is to request having her solder on metal rods (think 3/16" TIG wire) perpendicular to the glass. I could then drill holes in the bottom of the frame and epoxy those metal rods into the wood. I'd have to be careful with making sure the glass and wood were flush, but I could possibly just lay the assy upside down on a flat table top.

    This idea has some far fetched-ness to it. Are there any other ideas?

    Here is an example of a previous floating frame for canvas for those that didn't understand my word description above.

    IMG_20170422_092817_098.jpg

    IMG_20170421_210355_323.jpg


    Thanks and cheers,

  2. #2
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    I don't know how big the glass panel is, but keep in mind its weight. Many years ago, I made and framed some stained glass panels. Even tho I would reinforced the miter joints,if the frame was hung in the usual way by the top rail, over time the top miter would separate. My solution was to attach a wire on the edge of the glass panel from top to bottom. Then run the wire thru holes in the top rail and terminate the wire into an eyelet. Then hang from the eyelet. I've got a panel that is 30 years old, 36" x 36", with a very small oak frame around it, done in this manner, miters still tight.

    If you use a thin black wire with a black back panel I would think this method would give the appearance of the glass floating within the frame.

    Perry

  3. #3
    You could use brazed on threaded . standoffs on the back of the glass. Corresponding holes in the frame backing would allow you to bolt the two assemblies together.

  4. #4
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    Great question as I am in the middle of a project needing the same so let me know what you come up with. I dont have mitered corners so first thought was to simply put them in a rabbet and use frame 'tabs' (you can buy small tabs for picture frames that screw on, then swing out over the edge of the glass to keep it in).

    Have seen some older pieces that used a small strip which was held in with tiny brads. Another one had small 'blades' that pressed in all the way around.

    I like Johnnys suggestion - but maybe a soldered on 'tab'. Could just piece a flat piece of metal with a hole in it, and they solder it onto the glass a few places around the edges. Then just screw it in. (adjust the rabbet depth as needed)

  5. #5
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    I don't think it's far fetched. But, I would suggest putting multiple pegs at various stress points in the stained glass joints, and then attaching the whole thing to a Masonite backer that you rabbet into the frame.

  6. #6
    I had three or four rabbets in back of this and one left an air space for the LED panel, likely not needed but he wanted it. Make sure a frame is strong with stained glass if if flexes in over time I can put pressure on the glass and even do damage.

    Capture.JPG

  7. #7
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    Do you have any close ups of this frame? You did a really nice job. I am tempted by electronics, but also turned off by the idea of figuring out where to put everything. I haven't looked into it. You have really good consistent lighting, did you use a light panel or strips of LED's along the sides?

    Is this battery operated or plug in?

  8. #8
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    I'd probably make a "backwards canvas" type construction so that the stained glass assembly can be fastened to the edges with adhesive to support it without affecting transparency and the ability to back-light if necessary.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  9. #9
    Capturetttt.JPGeerr.JPG

    three steps not four. I built it out of some used pine and finished it in post cat. He plugged it into the wall you can see the switch below it on the wall and he ran the cable inside the drywall.
    Last edited by Warren Lake; 02-24-2019 at 3:14 PM.

  10. #10
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    Here a few ways I've mounted glass panels, all about 1 meter long. All are at least 20 years old. First is a light box; the glass is captured in dados in the top and bottom rails; just sits there with no padding, etc. It is easily removed by taking off the top rail so the inside surface can be cleaned.




    Here's a typical picture frame mounted one. The frame is about 3-1/2" wide and has splined miter joints. The glass sits in a rabbet in the back with a few dabs of silicone around the perimeter to hold it in place. The panel is hung by the top rail by screws set into the studs as close to the ends of the frame as allowed by the location of the studs and width of the frame.



    And this one is glued with construction adhesive into dados cut in the two stiles. Nothing more. The "frame" is hung by cables.



    John

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