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Thread: Holding boards on a mitre saw

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
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    Holding boards on a mitre saw

    Hello, I have a DeWalt 718 sliding mitre saw. I have made zero clearance fences for 90, 45, 22.5 and 15 degree cuts. The unit has the factory hold down clamp that is allright. I am thinking that an additional hold down from DeWalt for the other side would help. About $25. Any suggestions for holding boards down on a mitre saw. The project coming up needs 45 degree cuts in 1x8 Birdseye Maple so I don’t want any screw ups
    Thanks in advance, Kevin

  2. #2
    Kevin,
    it depends on the dimensions of the stock. I cut small segments for making turning blanks. I use a secondary table fitted with hold-downs. very accurate and safe
    doug

  3. #3
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    Thanks for the reply. I also have a jig for holding down small parts. The upcoming project calls for full inch thick maple to be cut at 45 degrees. The pieces will be about 22 inches long.

  4. #4
    Quote Originally Posted by kevin nee View Post
    Hello, I have a DeWalt 718 sliding mitre saw. I have made zero clearance fences for 90, 45, 22.5 and 15 degree cuts. The unit has the factory hold down clamp that is allright. I am thinking that an additional hold down from DeWalt for the other side would help. About $25.
    You need these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    They're sold in pairs because you use them in pairs. It's harder to find the singles, they might cost more than the pair. They work very well, I wouldn't bother with anything else.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jun 2015
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    Quote Originally Posted by Doug Dawson View Post
    You need these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    They're sold in pairs because you use them in pairs. It's harder to find the singles, they might cost more than the pair. They work very well, I wouldn't bother with anything else.
    If these (LINK) will work, they are A LOT better since they have the quick release. Makes adjusting and clamping/unclamping WAY easier.
    If at first you don't succeed, redefine success!

  6. #6
    Quote Originally Posted by Ben Rivel View Post
    If these (LINK) will work, they are A LOT better since they have the quick release. Makes adjusting and clamping/unclamping WAY easier.
    Hmmm, that's interesting. They don't market these for the 718 or my 780, or even imply compatibility, why wouldn't they if it were so. HOWEVER, in the Q&A for that link, a rep for the manufacturer claims they'll work for the 780. As the 780 and the 718 share a similar chassis, it might be worth a try (if you could easily return them.) At ~US$80 a pair, you'd be taking a chance? FWIW, I have no problem with clamp/unclamp with the waaaay cheaper original clamps, they just swing out of the way.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jun 2015
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    Quote Originally Posted by Doug Dawson View Post
    Hmmm, that's interesting. They don't market these for the 718 or my 780, or even imply compatibility, why wouldn't they if it were so. HOWEVER, in the Q&A for that link, a rep for the manufacturer claims they'll work for the 780. As the 780 and the 718 share a similar chassis, it might be worth a try (if you could easily return them.) At ~US$80 a pair, you'd be taking a chance? FWIW, I have no problem with clamp/unclamp with the waaaay cheaper original clamps, they just swing out of the way.
    I owned two of them for my 780 a few years ago. Yea they are for some reason a hidden accessory, but they are super nice. I liked them better than the Festool Kapex hold downs.
    If at first you don't succeed, redefine success!

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Aug 2018
    Location
    Michigan, USA
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    548
    I have one of the type of clamps that Doug posted (without the quick release). It came with my saw - the 20V cordless CSMS. It holds well enough, but I find it kind of clumsy to use. The quick release version looks like it would be better, but I'm not sure I want to spend that much for it.

    Sometimes, I just use a small handscrew clamp. Once it's adjusted to the right opening size, it's relatively easy to slide it on, and one turn on the top handle, and it's tight. After the cut, one turn is enough to remove it. My saw is on a rolling metal stand, so there's plenty of clearance for the clamp. Depending on how your saw is mounted, this might not work.

    Miter Saw Clamp 2.jpg

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