Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 15 of 23

Thread: Coping Sleds - Value and Uses

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2017
    Location
    Northern Illinois
    Posts
    943

    Coping Sleds - Value and Uses

    Is a coping sled (such as Woodpeckers or even a homemade jig) used on a router table of value for normal routing across the end grain of a board (rabbets, lap joints, etc.)? Or is merely using a good quality, accurate miter gauge give the same result? I have always viewed a coping sled more for use on rail and stile cuts for cabinet doors (which I don't do a lot of).

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Palm Springs, CA
    Posts
    1,085
    I found a coping sled was key for me to achieve square tear out free ends on cope and stick door frames. I had tried a miter gauge but was not able to hold parts securely enough. Here's a super simple DIY coping sled with a replaceable back up board. It simply rides against the fence. I can't say anything about the commercially available sleds as I don't have experience with them.

    Coping sled.jpg

    IMG_5351.jpg
    Last edited by Dick Mahany; 02-18-2019 at 11:05 AM.
    Dick Mahany.

  3. #3
    Using a miter gauge on a router table isn't worth the trouble it takes to get the fence and slot perfectly parallel with the gauge at a dead on right angle. It can be done, but you need to redo all that if you move the fence. A block that runs against the fence, as in the photo does the job. It can be as plain or fancy as you want.

    Bob Lang

  4. #4
    After making about 50 five panel doors, I broke down and bought a Rockler coping sled to tackle the next 50+ doors. I'm glad I did. It's worth it.
    “Travel is fatal to prejudice, bigotry, and narrow-mindedness..." - Mark Twain

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Lake Gaston, Henrico, NC
    Posts
    8,973
    I just stick together ones dedicated to the job I need to do. Sometimes they ride against the fence, and sometimes are made to use the edge of the table. Here is one used to cope tenoned rails on sash. Either end can be used. The backup piece, that matches the molding profile on the sash parts is boxwood.

    edited to add: There will be tearout on the outside, plain edge of the rails going in one direction, but the rails are made a little wider than they need to be at finished size anyway, so it's not a problem. It allows the molded, inside corner to be protected going in either direction.

    Last edited by Tom M King; 02-18-2019 at 11:03 AM.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Toronto Ontario
    Posts
    11,247
    I have a sliding table shaper so I normally use that for coping.

    I also have the Aigner coping jig which rides on the fence, it works well also....Rod

  7. #7
    Short answer: it can be, depending on what you're doing.

    The biggest benefit of a coping sled is that it holds a narrow workpiece more securely and safely than is possible with hands-only and a miter gauge, meaning no chance the piece can pivot off perpendicular and/or slide or tip into the gaps between the fences fore and aft of the cutter (which would at best ruin the work and at worst result in a very unpleasant kickback). Whether this is something to worry about relates to how heavy the cut is and how much gap, if any, exists between the fences to allow for the cutter to work. As you mention, a coping cutter for stick and cope doors takes a heavy cut and (absent some extra effort) involves a big gap between the fences. Similarly, a big slotting cutter on the end of a rail. I wouldn’t attempt either of those except with a coping sled.

    A second advantage of coping sleds as compared with miter gauges is they --at least many of them, like the Woodpeckers --register off the fence, not the miter slot. Note that the fence will not be an accurate stop for establishing the correct position of the workpiece prior to making the cut if the fence and miter slot are not parallel. As the miter gauge travels forward guided by the miter slot, the end of the piece will contact the cutter differently than expected. So registering off the fence directly saves set-up time and headaches/mistakes.

    Of course, even on light cuts that don’t justify getting out the coping sled, you still need to use something to keep a narrow workpiece controlled. The miter gauge can work OK here, assuming the fence and slot are parallel. But an easier solution, IMO, is a rectangular piece of ply with a handle attached, like in this picture. It registers off the fence and doubles as a backer board to prevent blow out.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  8. #8
    I don't recommend using a miter gauge.

    A sled that rides against the fence and doesn't use the miter slot is the best IMO. I make a push block made of usually a piece of MDF and I screw a plastic push block to it. Once the bit height it dialed in, I use this block as a zero clearance for the rails.

    So long as the face against the fence is perfectly square to the bearing edge, you're fine.

    Clamps can still be used if desired but I generally find them unnecessary.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Feb 2017
    Location
    Northern Illinois
    Posts
    943
    Quote Originally Posted by Julie Moriarty View Post
    After making about 50 five panel doors, I broke down and bought a Rockler coping sled to tackle the next 50+ doors. I'm glad I did. It's worth it.
    Obviously Rockler's coping sled is inexpensive compared to other commercially made jigs, but I have found that at least some of Rockler's jigs are cheaply made and, in the end, inaccurate (or maybe more like lacking in precision). Sometimes there is some play in the parts of the jig as joined together. Given what a coping sled does, this might not be significant with this particular jig. Just checking to see whether the Rockler coping sled required a lot of playing around to get it to work as desired?

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Location
    Central Missouri, U.S.
    Posts
    1,263
    I have the Woodpeckers sled, and it's good with a couple of "maybe" issues.

    They don't provide any method of securing the backing board in place. Everything else is nice and strapped down, but the backing board isn't. You can rig up a hold down clamp yourself, kind of, but they should have thought of that. I sent them an email pointing out that shortcoming and received a response akin to "Thanks, cool story, Bro."

    The other thing is that you're limited to about 5" width on your workpiece. That may or may not be an issue for you.

    It's a good, well-made sled and I still use it, but wanted to point those things out.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    NW Indiana
    Posts
    3,078
    I looked at some of the coping sleds and they are too expensive for me. I built my own with all the features of the good purchased ones. It is a lot cheaper. When it wears out, I take the hold down clamps off and reuse them

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    NE Ohio
    Posts
    6,979
    After making about 50 five panel doors, I broke down and bought a Rockler coping sled to tackle the next 50+ doors. I'm glad I did. It's worth it.
    I'm perfectly happy w/the Rockler sled also.
    My granddad always said, :As one door closes, another opens".
    Wonderful man, terrible cabinet maker...

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    SoCal
    Posts
    22,492
    Blog Entries
    1
    I made a very nice one early on because I thought I needed it. I have come up with a couple of things to do with it but, it is the only thing used less than my shop saw
    "A hen is only an egg's way of making another egg".


    – Samuel Butler

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Jul 2016
    Location
    Lebanon, TN
    Posts
    1,719
    I bought the Woodpeckers Coping Sled when I first started this hobby a few years ago.

    Of the commercially available coping sleds, I wish I'd bought the Infinity Tools Sled.

    But I will eventually make this one, and yes I think they serve a purpose.


  15. #15
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Location
    Northern Virginia
    Posts
    1,370
    Blog Entries
    3
    I use them for coping, my shapers have sliding tables and small parts dont work well with them. No miter slots, not that id use a miter gauge if there were.

    I just use whatever scrap is laying around for the sled. Ive had this one for a couple years. Its setup for left and right hand feed depending on clamp position.
    20190219_180634.jpg

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •