New slider alignment video

[mark mcfarlane]

For anyone considering using router bits in a Minimax shaper, I suggest you look at negotiating the price of a router spindle during the initial machine purchase. When I checked in 2015 a 1/2" router collet spindle was around $700. That price drove me to purchase a separate router lift/table.

The Incra fence system on my router table is so much better than the stock hood/fence that comes with a CU300, which doesn't have calibrated micro-adjustments.

[David Hawxhurst]

That's probably the best video yet on how to level a sliding saw table. Mine is a Felder but followed the same steps. The one thing that help me level my sliding table without going crazy was to set the level when the slider bearing are centered over the leveling bolt sets. Start with the middle and work you way out to the ends. Once I learned this level the table was much easier and fairly quick. Forgot where I learned that trick but it makes life easier.

[Chris Parks]

I have the CU300 SMART, and agree with the items Mark listed, and will add one more, small nit: When I retract the TS fence so the tip does not go past leading edge of the blade, it is then 'rear heavy' which means it wants to tilt up in the air. At least until it is locked in place. But it means a two handed operation (and could be solved by me loping off part of the fence to shorten it, but not sure I want to go there).

I find the dust collection on the TS to be average at best unless the DC on the overhead guard is used.

They may all be this way, but in order to use the planer the TS fence also needs to be removed to allow the jointer tables to swing up.

Overall I like it and it allows me to have several machines in a small space.

I bought a new length of fence and cut it up because ot was too long (K3 Hammer) I then sold the left over bits to others who wanted the same thing.

[Jordan Lane]

That's probably the best video yet on how to level a sliding saw table. Mine is a Felder but followed the same steps. The one thing that help me level my sliding table without going crazy was to set the level when the slider bearing are centered over the leveling bolt sets. Start with the middle and work you way out to the ends. Once I learned this level the table was much easier and fairly quick. Forgot where I learned that trick but it makes life easier.

David how can you determine when the bearings are over the adjustment bolts...i;ve seen this tip before but could never figure out how to see the position of the bearings...i to have a Felder

[David Hawxhurst]

David how can you determine when the bearings are over the adjustment bolts...i;ve seen this tip before but could never figure out how to see the position of the bearings...i to have a Felder

It's a pain. You'll need a flashlight. You have to look down the underside of the slider to see them. Once you know where they are at you can look up into the slider from the side to ensure that they are centered over the jacking points. Once I figured out were the bearing carriages were centered over the jacking points I used some painters tape to mark the location on the slider table. This make it easy to return to that point while leveling the table. I want to say that there were four key positions I used while leveling the sliders. This is also a good time to set your slider toe.

[Chris Parks]

I would be interested in the thinking behind centring the bearings, I would think if the bearings were centred and the table hanging off one end then any equalisation of weight would be lost. On a short stroke slider I doubt the need to centre anything but it makes sense to do so.

[Chris Parks]

Mark, can you link to the level you used for the video please. I have a Starret and the adjustment is a PIA compared to yours. I could not quite work out what you called the level when you referred to it in the video.

[mark mcfarlane]

Mark, can you link to the level you used for the video please. I have a Starret and the adjustment is a PIA compared to yours. I could not quite work out what you called the level when you referred to it in the video.

Hi Chris. The level I use in the video is a Shars 12" Master Precisions Level SKU: 303-9503. It was recommended by a few others here on SMC. They are $20 off right now (the same discount I got 6 weeks ago, so maybe they are always on sale), which in essence covers the cost of shipping.

[Chris Parks]

​Thanks Mark, now to see if they ship to Oz and how much

[mark mcfarlane]

​Thanks Mark, now to see if they ship to Oz and how much

I'm pretty sure there are SCMI/Minimax distributors in Australia, I have seen some Minimax posts here in SMC.

[David Hawxhurst]

I would be interested in the thinking behind centring the bearings, I would think if the bearings were centred and the table hanging off one end then any equalisation of weight would be lost. On a short stroke slider I doubt the need to centre anything but it makes sense to do so.

Well centering the bearings over the load bearing points/jacking bolts seems to make the leveling easier as this is the point at which the bearings are passing over a fixed point loaded or unloaded. It seems to help with the leveling as everything is traveling in a straight line and not a wavy motion in the slider table which is sort of what i had prior to doing it this way. Just for reference my slider is 9 ft.

[Chris Parks]

Centreing the weight of the table over the base I can inderstand and and on a 9 foot slider I would think almost mandatory but to have the bearings centred and all that eight hanging off the end does not sound good but I have never done nor do I own a slider that big so experience trumps theory and thanks for taking the time to reply to my question.

[Frank Martin]

Mark,
I will watch your video as I had to figure it out myself mostly when I went through the process with my CU300. One issue I still have is that my crosscut fence is no longer square to the blade when I tilt the blade to 45 degrees to make miter cuts. It is perfectly square when the blade is in the normal cutting position of 90 degrees to the table. Did you have to make this adjustment on your machine?

[mark mcfarlane]

Mark,
I will watch your video as I had to figure it out myself mostly when I went through the process with my CU300. One issue I still have is that my crosscut fence is no longer square to the blade when I tilt the blade to 45 degrees to make miter cuts. It is perfectly square when the blade is in the normal cutting position of 90 degrees to the table. Did you have to make this adjustment on your machine?

Hi Frank,

The only adjustment I know of to square cuts is on the outrigger for the crosscut fence.

I can't envision how a crosscut cut with the blade at 90 degrees gives a different angle on the crosscut when you tilt the blade unless the wood is sliding on the outrigger during the cut. Did you clamp the wood for both the vertical and tilted blade cuts?

[Frank Martin]

Hi Frank,

The only adjustment I know of to square cuts is on the outrigger for the crosscut fence.

I can't envision how a crosscut cut with the blade at 90 degrees gives a different angle on the crosscut when you tilt the blade unless the wood is sliding on the outrigger during the cut. Did you clamp the wood for both the vertical and tilted blade cuts?

Hi Mark,

I think you are right about clamping. I usually don't clamp using the hold downs instead use my hands. Thinking about the cutting action when the blade is titled, it is possible that the wood shifts. Thanks for pointing this out, I will give it a try over the weekend.

I watched your video last night, it is great. Love the fact that it is not "produced". It is easy to follow without frills and unnecessary background sounds. I will go over my machine using the steps you outlined.