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Thread: Planing painted wood

  1. #16
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    Jun 2018
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    I like the idea of hand power planer. It looks to be 3/4, so even if I end up with 1/2 inch boards I’m happy, I hate throwing away wood, and being in Hawaii, everything is exspensive.

    The tightness of the growth rings and what looks to be be riftsawn boards, I wouldn’t just trash them. At this point. And my initial estimation of 75 BF is probably way off. It’s about 24 boards 3/4x6x48. Thanks

  2. #17
    Repaint and use it for barn wood.

  3. #18
    This is what I do, powered hand plane with carbide blades. Sometimes I’ll go through the same process as Andrew with the bandsaw. I have an old job site table saw that will take off the edges before resawing the faces. Carbide is your friend with paint as paint dulls steel quickly.

    You can also use a heat gun to release the paint; heat and scrape. Much slower process, however and not all of the paint will be removed.

  4. #19
    Join Date
    May 2007
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    Florida
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    Okay. I’d flip my knives back to the dull side and plane the paint off, one pass each side. No big deal; just wouldn’t want to possibly ding up good knives doing it. Wear a dust mask if you’re worried about the paint and keep a shop fan blowing past you out of the shop. I can’t believe anyone would actually try to sand off years of paint layers. If it’s good heart pine, you’ll be happy. If nothing special, it will eventually come in handy.

    Dan

  5. #20
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    I’m surely going to salvage it now. It came from my open carport, as slats. I’m tore it all down to frame and enclose it. I am making an enclosed garage for my shop. I’m in Hawaii so I don’t have to worry about insulation too much etc.. my current plan now is to build some cabinets for tool storage with it. I’ll update in a couple months when it’s done.

    578E54C3-B7C9-4E67-AA98-8D083BDB9372.jpg2EEFAE8A-E068-4B5C-9007-B083B8C656F0.jpg

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
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    Could it be redwood? The timeframe might be right for redwood (it was still very common and inexpensive into the 80s if I remember correctly). I would expect pine/fir to have long since rotted in a warm moist outdoor environment.

  7. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Andrew Seemann View Post
    Before you get too far, clean up a couple board feet and work with it to make sure you like it enough to do the rest.
    Yes, this. Also, figure out what it would cost to replace it with decent pine from a lumber yard. Be generaous; price 75 bf of VGF (fir) which is more expensive. Subtract the materials and time to prep the stuff you have, subtract all the waste from the recovery process and you will have a number to consider. Is it worth it? If the material were from Grandpa's house . . . and it were going to become a china hutch for a relative that would be passed down, the value is subjective. If it is just free wood . . . meh.
    "A hen is only an egg's way of making another egg".


    – Samuel Butler

  8. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Andrew Seemann View Post
    Before you get too far, clean up a couple board feet and work with it to make sure you like it enough to do the rest. From the picture, it looks like either vertical grain fir (mostly vertical at least) or one of those hard pines from the South. Both of those woods can be quite hard and not easy to work with. Note that some people really like those woods, but not everyone does.
    you called it. Many of the boards have growth rings far tighter than the one in the photo, when I tried to plane or face them on the jointer they acted like I was trying to machine metal. Crazy. There is some very, very nice old growth wood in there, but I gave up. I would have destroyed my tools. And, there were some dark stains from either the paint or weather over time that distorted the appearance. Oh well, would have been beautiful material

  9. #24
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  10. #25
    The grain looks like some of the joists in the old man's previous house; I think they were Douglas Fir. I tried to drive some 12d nails into them (I don't remember why I needed to) They got about two thirds of the way in and then the 16 oz hammer I was using just started bouncing off of them. They wouldn't go in any further no matter how hard I hit them. I think I ended up having to drive screws in after pilot drilling.

  11. #26
    It’s a little spendy but I love my Metabo paint remover. It uses carbide inserts like those found in a helical cutterhead. Dust collection is pretty good too.

  12. #27
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    Jun 2008
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    So, this is something like 25 1x6x96 boards, right? New stock is $150. I don't think this is worth your health or tool damage. Like another poster said, use as is. Or take to a art community that will use as is. If there is lead, u will never get that dust out of your shop or ur lungs.

  13. #28
    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Location
    Michigan
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    If it might be lead paint, don't sand, plane or burn it.

  14. #29
    I agree with Davis. I have that exact tool and it does work very well.

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