Hammer K3 Blade Lift Problem

[Chris Parks]

On my Hammer K3 Winner it has become very hard to wind the blade up to full height to the extent I have to do it with both hands and even then it is beyond ridiculous. I recall it did this once before and after a lot of compressed air and spraying a lot of silicone lubricant which dries and does not attract dust it has done the same thing again.

I keep looking at it and getting the same answer, I think the problem is in the support block adjacent to the hand wheel where the shaft enters the cabinet and that does not look like it is an easy thing to pull apart. Has anyone had this problem and fixed it properly? I have made it a lot better than what it was but it certainly isn't right. All suggestions welcomed and appreciated.

[Sebastien La Madeleine]

I'm sure someone will be able to answer that with some insight but I seem to go through the same process every 4 months or so... Can't wait for someone to shed light on that.

I'm thinking maybe silicone spray is not viscous enough and wears out quickly. Have you tried with some grease? I was actually planning that for this weekend.

[Tim Derr]

On my Hammer K3 Winner it has become very hard to wind the blade up to full height to the extent I have to do it with both hands and even then it is beyond ridiculous. I recall it did this once before and after a lot of compressed air and spraying a lot of silicone lubricant which dries and does not attract dust it has done the same thing again.

I keep looking at it and getting the same answer, I think the problem is in the support block adjacent to the hand wheel where the shaft enters the cabinet and that does not look like it is an easy thing to pull apart. Has anyone had this problem and fixed it properly? I have made it a lot better than what it was but it certainly isn't right. All suggestions welcomed and appreciated.

Good Afternoon Mr. Parks,

Give me a call here at 866-792-5288 ext 225.
Let's see if we can get things moving in the right direction.

All the best

[Chris Parks]

I'm sure someone will be able to answer that with some insight but I seem to go through the same process every 4 months or so... Can't wait for someone to shed light on that.

I'm thinking maybe silicone spray is not viscous enough and wears out quickly. Have you tried with some grease? I was actually planning that for this weekend.

Grease or oil will hold dust and debris and gum up the thread hence me using Silicone spray. if anyone has a better option I would appreciate it.

[Chris Parks]

Good Afternoon Mr. Parks,

Give me a call here at 866-792-5288 ext 225.
Let's see if we can get things moving in the right direction.

All the best

Tim, thanks for the offer and it is much appreciated. I am in Australia so if I can't resolve it from advise on the forum which others will benefit from and the local agent has not got the answer then I will give you a call. I think it is best to resolve it here if possible for everyone to see.

[Sebastien La Madeleine]

Hi Chris, I scoured the internet and came up with some info regarding the lubrication durability and silicone spray appears to be low in terms of durability in pressure environments such as the leadscrew raising the table saw blade. From what I gather some dry lubricant containing PTFE would most likely be more durable and since most are silicone free there is no chance of spoiling fresh wood with fish eyes in the finish. The other option that comes suggested often is molybdenum disulfide dry lubricant. I've tried to find some of those and they seem to be reserved for the industrial crowd...

Hope this helps!

[Mike Eshleman]

I have a Hammer B3 Winner that had become very difficult to raise and lower the saw blade. I called Tim Derr at Felder and was referred to Ron Siebach in tech support who guided me through the steps to get the mechanism working smoothly.
K3W Blde Elevation Mechanism.PNG

The areas circled in red are points where the threaded rod that raises and lowers the blade typically collects sawdust and grease; I cleaned and lubed these points. I loosened the spanner nut, #81, a bit as it can be too tight. Next I removed the saw blade and cleaned and lubed around bolt #118. I also loosened this bolt as it was very tight. When you remove the dust chute, #119, you can access two bolts that go through a curved slot that moves with the blade. I cleaned and lubed this area. Finally, I tilted the blade over to 45 degrees and put some oil in the shaft held on by the spanner nut, #81. Each of these steps made a little improvement, but that last step I did made the most difference. After that the blade moved up and down easily.

To access the points circled in red I removed the switch box cover and laid the box on the floor inside the saw.

Chris and others with this problem, I hope this helps in correcting it.

Mike

[Bill Dufour]

Wash it out with rubbing alcohol in a squirt bottle. I mix up a lube of graphite power in alcohol and drench with that. Or just buy some spray lock lube which is the same thing. Or buy teflon powder and mix it with a Carrier like alcohol. I have no idea where to buy powered teflon.
I talked to our school locksmith the other day they, use silicone grease on outdoor lock cylinders no graphite allowed anymore.
Bill D.

Ebay carries both teflon(PTFE0 and graphite. Teflon is non reactive. Graphite is electrically conductive so be careful around switches and terminals.

[Chris Parks]

Thanks Mike for your suggestions. I had a bit of a play with the nut 84 and the two sliding bolts behind the shroud and lubricated the shaft with spray grease and it is now usable with one hand and not two. When it annoys me enough I am going to pull the shaft assembly out and put grease nipples in the two blocks that support it to see if that helps, it certainly can't hinder. When the shed cools down a bit I will have a go at 118 and report back. I am going to wash the grease off the exposed shaft that I sprayed on it so that the two blocks would get greased by winding the shaft up and down to prevent saw dust adhering to it.

[Steve Wurster]

Mike,

How did you get to the right-most #101 that holds the dust chute? I had a problem recently where both of those #118 bolts were loose and it was causing my riving knife to wiggle. I tightened those to address the problem (possibly a bit too tight, as my blade is harder to raise now). But while I was trying to figure out the problem I wanted to remove the dust chute, but couldn't figure out how. I removed the left-most #101 and the chute cover was loose, but I never got it off of there.

Steve

[Mike Eshleman]

Steve,
There are four bolts that hold the dust chute. Two on the left side require a 4mm hex wrench and have a nylon spacer behind the chute. The two on the right side of the chute require a 13mm wrench. I found it easiest to remove the two on the right first. That allows you to control the spacer as the bolts on the left come out. The spacer can fall into the chute as I discovered.

Mike

[Chris Parks]

A thread dredge for those interested. I have finally resolved this problem properly and as I mentioned earlier it all revolves around the support block for the shaft nearest the winder handle.
Problem one is that the block cannot be removed from the saw without major work due to the mount shape the block sits in so that idea got the flick. if it could be removed a grease or oil nipple would be the ultimate answer for those who want to do it but for me it was a step too far. I removed the roll pin, circlip and washer to expose the end of the block and drilled a hole in the block hard up against and parallel to the winder shaft as deep as it would go making sure I broke through the edge of the block to expose the shaft. I then forced oil into the hole and instantly the winder was a lot easier to use. Lubricating the ACME thread on the shaft will also lubricate the front block it runs through so that is not a problem. I left the saw for a few days and went back to it just to remove the doubt that I had fixed it and instantly I could feel the huge difference since being able to lubricate the block. To do it in future all that is necessary is to slide the circlip and washer back which would be a two minute job.

[Jacques Gagnon]

A thread dredge for those interested. I have finally resolved this problem properly and as I mentioned earlier it all resolves around the support block for the shaft nearest the winder handle.
Problem one is that the block cannot be removed from the saw without major work due to the mount shape the block sits in so that idea got the flick. if it could be removed a grease or oil nipple would be the ultimate answer for those who want to do it but for me it was a step too far. I removed the roll pin, circlip and washer to expose the end of the block and drilled a hole in the block hard up against and parallel to the winder shaft as deep as it would go making sure I broke through the edge of the block to expose the shaft. I then forced oil into the hole and instantly the winder was a lot easier to use. Lubricating the ACME thread on the shaft will also lubricate the front block it runs through so that is not a problem. I left the saw for a few days and went back to it just to remove the doubt that I had fixed it and instantly I could feel the huge difference since being able to lubricate the block. To do it in future all that is necessary is to slide the circlip and washer back which would be a two minute job.

Good day Chris,

Thanks for the explanation. Am I correct in thinking that you are referring to parts number 88 to 92 on the diagram Mike posted (#7)?

Regards,

J.

[Chris Parks]

Yes plus the roll pin that locates the hand wheel which is not shown. The hardest part of the job is getting the roll pin out and back in for which you will need a parallel pin punch or similar.

[Jacques Gagnon]

Thank you Sir!

Regards,

J.