Do you use a drill press table?

[glenn bradley]

I recently upgraded my drill press, too, but haven't settled on what to do about a table. At this point, I've just rigged a fence made of misc. parts.

Glenn, do you happen to have pictures of yours?

DP-Cab (32).jpg . DP-DC (2).jpg

9 Fwd Tilt.jpg . DP WP Table 001.jpg . A Rt Tilt.jpg

Its the older style Woodpecker table of phenolic ply. I use their low profile fence and stops as well as a shop made and a Rockler. Having a split face for taller work is great. The low fence clears well but only offers a "stops" sort of holding capability. The shop made one is a solid face, one piece, smooth-both-sides fence that I use when I don't need clearance near the fence and need to clamp odd items.

A block like this adds a lot of function for little effort.

Odd Stock Holder (6).jpg . Odd Stock Holder (4).jpg

Having tracks for the fence and tracks closer to the chuck for work holding is a benefit. Backer is a 4" square that is replaceable as it gets chewed up. If I built my own I would make the insert and offset round disc to get more uses out of it; moving by degrees to a new area instead of by quadrants.

[Charles Taylor]

I had one on my old benchtop drill press, a simple piece of MDF that provided a larger working surface than the the cast iron table and that miraculously never sagged during its lifetime. When in need of a fence or something to hold work, I'd find a suitable piece of scrap and clamp it to the table. In the [mumble] years since I upgraded to a better press, I've meant to design and build a better table. I need to restock my round tuit bin.

[Jim Becker]

The drill press table I made many years ago has never left my drill press.

[Charlie Hinton]

My table is very simple and utilitarian being a rectangular piece of 3/4" plywood fastened to the round table. The plywood overhangs a few inches. A couple more pieces of plywood fastened together at 90 degrees serve as the fence and sacrificial drill board. I clamp that assembly to the plywood on the table. It really makes using the drill press easier and safer. I keep intending to make something "better" but this works well and doesn't interfere with the handles so replacing it is at the bottom of the list.

[Frank Pratt]

I was looking at that one, Frank. How much hassle is it to put on/take off?

Honestly, I can't tell you because I'v never taken it back off since I got it a few years ago. I think it's only a couple of bolts that hold it on.

One critique on it though. The replaceable insert sits just a little below the surface of the table. It seems like the recess was machined to the correct depth & then the melamine was applied after, making it too deep. Easily fixed with shims though.

[Nick Decker]

Glenn B., thanks for the photos and descriptions. As usual, I am in awe of your jigginess.

Frank, thanks for the info. I actually ordered that table from Lee Valley when I ordered my new drill press from them, then cancelled it because it was back ordered. May still buy it, but the insert thing gives me pause. If the insert isn't backed up against what you're drilling, seems like you'd get tearout, which is why you'd want the insert in the first place.

[Mike Cutler]

I have an Incra drill press table that's been on for over 20 years. Pretty much identical to the one in Glenn's photos. I use it quite frequently, for all manner of tasks, not just wood working.
It takes less than 5 minutes to remove it if I need to do the things that Matthias is doing in the link.
The crank handle extension is a 1/2" drive ratchet, extension, and socket, that cost less than a dollar at a flea market.
I am looking for new drill press, an the table will be installed on the new one. They're to convenient for most wood working tasks.

[Frank Pratt]

Frank, thanks for the info. I actually ordered that table from Lee Valley when I ordered my new drill press from them, then cancelled it because it was back ordered. May still buy it, but the insert thing gives me pause. If the insert isn't backed up against what you're drilling, seems like you'd get tearout, which is why you'd want the insert in the first place.

That's exactly right. Some thin cardboard shims glued in the recess will take care of that. By now though, they may have corrected the issue.

[Gordon Stump]

You can't beat a table for indexing. Mine is not fancy but it is motorized!table.jpg

[Craig Day]

You can't beat a table for indexing. Mine is not fancy but it is motorized!

Very cool Gordon. I considered doing this, but then I came across an improved manual version that moves the crank to the front of the table: http://lumberjocks.com/projects/373553

I've already ordered the parts to do this for my new table. I'm thinking about doing a second crank on the left for tightening and loosening the table.

[Orlando Gonzalez]

I agree with Gordon and BTW you have a very cool DP table.

DP.jpg

[Gordon Stump]

Thanks Surplus Stair Tread motors are everywhere...even in the garbage. I use mine for a coat rack.

[Nick Decker]

That's exactly right. Some thin cardboard shims glued in the recess will take care of that. By now though, they may have corrected the issue.

Frank, do you find that the dust collection on your table is worthwhile at all?

[Frank Pratt]

Frank, do you find that the dust collection on your table is worthwhile at all?

As it is, it isn't that great. It works better to just clamp a DC hose in the appropriate spot to suck up the stuff.

[Nick Decker]

OK, thanks.