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Thread: Is Titebond III worth it, and can it be your only wood glue?

  1. #91
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    Jan 2007
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    I'll echo what others have. A gallon jug of glue is a bunch of glue. When I built my bench I bought a gallon. 18 months later I threw 2/3 of it away. The per ounce discount on larger containers doesn't make up for that. I buy smaller containers now. A quart is the largest I'd buy.
    Sharp solves all manner of problems.

  2. #92
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    From all I had read Titebond 3 is slightly better than 2... better water resistance and time available for glue up... but IMHO the differences are marginal... and both are marginally better than the old and tested yellow PVA glue.

    In my country Titebond is around 10 times more expensive than the old yellow PVA glue. I never ever considered it for the price difference.

  3. #93
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    Feb 2017
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    I guess everyone just uses what they feel comfortable with and, with today's glues, there probably is no right answer. I've used Titebond for many years because I started using it when I began woodworking and just stuck with it. I've used polyurethane glue when it first came out and don't like it because it tends to stain the wood around the joint when there is squeeze our (which there almost always is) and it's messy to clean up.

    As of few years ago I use Titebond II Extend because it truly does take a little longer to set and really does allow a little more time to get the joints together. Sometimes, just a little more time is all that is needed when things aren't going well.

    Again, I think it just comes down to using what you have history with and what you feel works. If you've had no failures with the glue you use and have no special needs, there are probably several glues on the market that will work. Just use what works and hasn't failed you.

  4. #94
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    Quote Originally Posted by Osvaldo Cristo View Post
    From all I had read Titebond 3 is slightly better than 2... better water resistance and time available for glue up... but IMHO the differences are marginal... and both are marginally better than the old and tested yellow PVA glue.

    In my country Titebond is around 10 times more expensive than the old yellow PVA glue. I never ever considered it for the price difference.
    Titebond I, II and III are all PVA glues. They just have some different properties relative to water resistance and open time, etc. There are many brands of PVA and each often has different formulas just like the Titebond folks. Gorilla brand even has PVA, although most of us think of their Polyurethane glue first when we hear the name.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  5. #95
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    Oct 2007
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    Rutherford Co., NC
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    I only buy III.

    1) Stronger bond
    2) Longer open time
    3) Can be applied in colder conditions
    4) Waterproof

    http://www.titebond.com/community/the-big-three

    I just bought a bottle at the big blue home center and it was the same price at original or II.
    "Live like no one else, so later, you can LIVE LIKE NO ONE ELSE!"
    - Dave Ramsey

  6. #96
    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Becker View Post
    Gorilla brand even has PVA, although most of us think of their Polyurethane glue first when we hear the name.
    I built a garden shed ~15 years ago, and used the Gorilla Poly glue with great success. Then I saw their PVA glue and thought why not, the poly worked so well, I'll give it a try. Haven't tried anything else since.
    Assumption is the mother of all screw ups
    Anonyms

  7. #97
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    Mar 2009
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    Quote Originally Posted by Osvaldo Cristo View Post
    From all I had read Titebond 3 is slightly better than 2... better water resistance and time available for glue up... but IMHO the differences are marginal... and both are marginally better than the old and tested yellow PVA glue.

    In my country Titebond is around 10 times more expensive than the old yellow PVA glue. I never ever considered it for the price difference.
    Osvaldo, Titebond/Franklin is marketing shinola to those that are an easy mark. I've tried and tested many many glues and have found no significant differences in PVA type glues like others have also posted here. I wouldn't pay a premium price for something that is run of the mill. The last glue I would use is a Titebond because of their marketing BS and its the only glue I've had multiple problems with. I'm a small one operation and go through between 3 and 5 gallons of PVA a year along with many custom adhesives designed for purpose. I have to stake my reputation on the quality of what I produce and Titebond just doesn't fit in the equation.

  8. #98
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    Feb 2017
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    Quote Originally Posted by John Kee View Post
    Osvaldo, Titebond/Franklin is marketing shinola to those that are an easy mark. I've tried and tested many many glues and have found no significant differences in PVA type glues like others have also posted here. I wouldn't pay a premium price for something that is run of the mill. The last glue I would use is a Titebond because of their marketing BS and its the only glue I've had multiple problems with. I'm a small one operation and go through between 3 and 5 gallons of PVA a year along with many custom adhesives designed for purpose. I have to stake my reputation on the quality of what I produce and Titebond just doesn't fit in the equation.
    John, I've never had any problems with Titebond PVA glues, but am always willing to try another, maybe less expensive brand (which I assume the brand you use is since you must be a production woodworker) . Which brand and type of glue do you use?

  9. #99
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    Mar 2009
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    Canada
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    Randy I consider expense relative to performance and didn't post what I use because of hobby use availability, which is what this forum is all about. I use Kleiberit PVA and specialty glues which are available through Richelieu Hardware. I first got started with their glue about 10 years ago when I needed a glue that would bond Melamine to itself. Tried the Titebond Melamine glue and the joint broke with very little effort, so went searching and found Kleiberit Melamine and Lacquer glue. Tested a few pieces and the glue actually bonded to the melamine and when I tried to break the joint it ripped the surface right off down to the particle core. That made me try their other offerings. Currently I use their #303 or 305 for most glue ups. I'm going to try some of their PUR shortly.

  10. #100
    Quote Originally Posted by Charles Wiggins View Post
    I only buy III.

    1) Stronger bond
    2) Longer open time
    3) Can be applied in colder conditions
    4) Waterproof

    http://www.titebond.com/community/the-big-three

    I just bought a bottle at the big blue home center and it was the same price at original or II.
    And when you hit a project where using that as your sole glue gives you trouble I hope its one for yourself or one that doesnt have a several thousand dollar price tag attached. There are all sorts of shops out there that tout using TBIII exclusively but if you read any commercial trade publications or follow any of that type of work you will find that numerous shops that run hundreds of thousands of dollars worth of work through their shops, have rid their shops of TBIII for failure specific reasons. Its not to say it wont satisfy some peoples needs, happily yours is one, but if your doing any work for sale or for others.. dont let your guard down.

  11. #101
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    Nov 2016
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    Itapevi, SP - Brazil
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    Yes...

    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Becker View Post
    Titebond I, II and III are all PVA glues. They just have some different properties relative to water resistance and open time, etc. There are many brands of PVA and each often has different formulas just like the Titebond folks. Gorilla brand even has PVA, although most of us think of their Polyurethane glue first when we hear the name.
    Hi Jim,

    ...yes, I know they are PVA glues with a few additives - I was comparing them against "traditional yellow PVA glue" under a number of trade marks.

    Thanks for feedback.
    All the best.

    Osvaldo.

  12. It all depends on what I am glueing up and at my local Home Depot the 16oz bottles of titebond II and III are only 2 dollars difference.

  13. #103
    I don't think I've seen mention in this thread of Lee Valley's GF Cabinetmaker's Glue.
    I've never tried it but wondered if anyone else here had any experience with it.

  14. #104
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    Jan 2007
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    Michiana
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    For what it's worth, back in the day (late 1970's) we used white Elmer's Glue in my vocational Woodworking class in high school. All the stuff I made is still in use, except for the kitchen table I made for Mom and I had to cut that apart to recycle the lumber. How strong a glue do you need? 4X stronger than necessary or 10X stronger?
    Sharp solves all manner of problems.

  15. #105
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
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    So Cal
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    3,730
    I hear ya Rob, Elmer’s glue all white glue is very good stuff. it’s has plenty of open time and is translucent when it’s dry.
    I use it a lot.
    My own personal test shows it bonds perfectly.
    The brown title bond 3 has a lot of solids and if you don’t clamp the c..p out of it glue lines are inevitable on table tops.
    Aj

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