Is Titebond III worth it, and can it be your only wood glue?

[Al Launier]

I try to use the freshest TB III on hand for important projects and use the older TB III (over a year old) for less important ones, especially those projects that are constructed with dowels or screws. So far this has worked out well; if it pours it's good.

[Charlie Jones]

I try to use the freshest TB III on hand for important projects and use the older TB III (over a year old) for less important ones, especially those projects that are constructed with dowels or screws. So far this has worked out well; if it pours it's good.

I have been using TB 3 for a couple of years. I have not had any failures. After reading this thread I decided to test it by breaking some 3/4 cherry with hammer strikes along the glue lines. The clamps were on overnight as I normally do. I tested several pieces. They all broke at near but not at the glue joint. My conclusion is TB 3 is stronger than the wood when used properly. That’s good enough for me.

[Ken Grant]

I have been using TB 3 for a couple of years. I have not had any failures. After reading this thread I decided to test it by breaking some 3/4 cherry with hammer strikes along the glue lines. The clamps were on overnight as I normally do. I tested several pieces. They all broke at near but not at the glue joint. My conclusion is TB 3 is stronger than the wood when used properly. That’s good enough for me.

The issue that concerns me with TB 3 is not initial strength. I have failure tested TB 1 TB 2 and TB3 with edge grain to edge grain joints, and none of them come apart on the glue line. I have also failure tested many cope and pattern type joints (cabinet doors) with similar results.

My concerns are:

glue failure at higher temperatures (exterior door with darker color and sun exposure)
glue line telegraphing on paint grade work
creep on a joint under tension (bent lamination)

The glue failure at higher temps has been documented on woodweb, but I have not personally experienced this failure.

I have had an occasional glue line be slightly raised with TB2 (plywood bulkhead to faceframe joint). I could sand it down flush and the next day it would pop back up again slightly. Did I have the joint perfectly prepared? Who knows, but I do this for a living and it was clamped well. Also, the problem went away when I went back to TB 1.

I also put an unfinished cabinet door glued up with TB 1 outside my shop to see what would happen. The joints were cope and pattern. No dowels, and no nails through the joint from the back of the door.

It was in the summer-June or July(90°+). There was dew every night and direct sun for at least 10 hours every day. It got rained on after about a week. The end grain was all swelled up but the joint was still holding. I was shocked to be honest. After about another week, we got another big rainstorm. The next day the joints on the door had finally popped open.

These are just some of my own experiences. Your mileage may vary.

[Glen Crews]

I use Titebond II for most projects. I do use Titebond III for exterior projects or if I want some extra open time.

[bill epstein]

One thing about Titebond III I haven't seen mentioned is that it seems to pass right over the rubbery easy-to-peel stage and goes directly from wet to edge destroying hard. And it's not just me. An acquaintance also complained of the same thing.

I also avoid yellow, Titebond II or Elmer's for the shorter open time and no need of water resistance. Overall, it's white Elmer's for carcase construction and the king of veneer glues, Veneer Systems PPR. The latter is a PITA to use cold but I can't afford a hot press and have accumulated a truckload of cauls and clamps over the years.

[Terry Wawro]

Funny, I've used all three Titebonds and polyurethane glue. The only glue failure I can remember was from using Gorilla Glue. 1x6 trim board just fell off after a few months. Never tried it again.