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Thread: Is Titebond III worth it, and can it be your only wood glue?

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  1. #1

    Is Titebond III worth it, and can it be your only wood glue?

    My apologies in advance as I'm sure this topic has been covered elsewhere in the forum, but since the terms "glue" "wood" "best", and even "titebond" are used so much in this forum, I was unable to find a specific thread on this topic despite my attempts to search one out.

    So I'm looking to purchase my first gallon of wood glue in preparation for building my first woodworking bench. Some future projects I plan to make also include cutting boards, pizza peels, and possibly some other items that would come in contact with food. Titebond II and III are both water resistant and FDA approved for indirect food contact and so I assume they are what most experts recommended for using to make cutting boards and peels.

    My questions are:
    1) Why is Titebond III $10's more than Titebond II?
    2) Is Titebond III worth the premium?
    3) If I get Titebond III will I ever run into situations were I wished I had Titebond II or Titebond Original instead of Titebond III?

    One of the main reasons to buy glue in bulk, other than the obvious anticipation of needing a lot for my workbench, is that it's an efficient way to reduce hobby cost in the long term. While I like efficient cost cutting and making sure my hobby budget goes as far as it can, I do not mind spending money where it is used well, or reduces the clutter of having multiple types of very similar products.

    I'm sure there are multiple opinions on this, but if a few of you experts could part with some wisdom in this area, I would greatly appreciate it.

    -Jon
    Last edited by Jon Crafting; 02-11-2019 at 4:37 PM.

  2. #2
    One of the main reasons I use 2 over 3 is for the longer open assembly time... for titebond II it's 3-5 mins, and for titebond III it's 8-10mins. If you're doing a big glue up then having a longer open assembly time is essential. My guess is your bench build will be a pretty big gluing effort so I would lean toward a longer open assembly time.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Craig Day View Post
    One of the main reasons I use 2 over 3 is for the longer open assembly time... for titebond II it's 3-5 mins, and for titebond III it's 8-10mins. If you're doing a big glue up then having a longer open assembly time is essential. My guess is your bench build will be a pretty big gluing effort so I would lean toward a longer open assembly time.
    I think you meant 3 over 2 and I agree — the open time is a big deal.

  4. #4
    Whoops... yes... 3 over 2!

  5. #5
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    I usually use III, but II has worked just fine as well.

    I'd be careful about buying in bulk, though. Both versions will go bad in about a year after opening. I just threw out a couple of smaller bottles of III the other day. Both were about a third full, but were a much darker brown than when first opened.

  6. #6
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    TB-III is generally the only PVA in the shop.
    "A hen is only an egg's way of making another egg".


    – Samuel Butler

  7. #7
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    This thread could reach a " sticking point"
    I use Titebond III if water resistance is needed. Titebond Extend for most things. I test glues often before I use them.
    "Whether you think you can, or you think you can’t - you’re right."
    - Henry Ford

  8. #8
    The answer is no, and no. Do your own tests and you will find that TBIII is not the best glue for most applications and is far weaker than each level below. Straight titebond or titebond super is far superior to tbIII. Again. Take the time to do your own torture tests and you will see it for yourself. If your looking for water/weather resistance again it will fail and you'll find yourself using epoxy or urethane.

    People default is if tite bond is good, 2 is better, and III (or ULTIMATE) has got to be best.

    Glue yourself up several test pieces identically with the different glues and torture test them. The results will be clear.
    Last edited by Mark Bolton; 02-11-2019 at 7:15 PM.

  9. #9
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    I believe the biggest difference besides open time is that III is waterproof for outside use.
    There is/was a version of II called Extend that an even greater open time.
    You only need 2 tools in life. If it's supposed to move and doesn't... use WD40. If it moves and shouldn't... use duct tape.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nick Decker View Post
    I'd be careful about buying in bulk, though. Both versions will go bad in about a year after opening. I just threw out a couple of smaller bottles of III the other day. Both were about a third full, but were a much darker brown than when first opened.
    While I agree that sticking with quantities you'll use in less than a year is wise, I am skeptical of the "it goes bad after a year" claim though. I've used quite a bit of 2-3 year old Titebond III over the years and never had a failure. I test the glue when it gets "over the hill" and if it is makes a joint stronger than the wood, consider it good for another 3-6 months.

  11. #11
    I like regular Titebond because it washes out of my pants, which is where I wipe my finger after spreading the glue
    Mark R

  12. #12
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    I hardly ever use titebond 3 anymore. I’ve actually found Elmer’s Glue all white glue to do most of my needs. It has a very long open time it’s translucent dry and inexpensive.
    Aj

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Andrew Hughes View Post
    I hardly ever use titebond 3 anymore. I’ve actually found Elmer’s Glue all white glue to do most of my needs. It has a very long open time it’s translucent dry and inexpensive.
    I have also been using this as well in some recent (not-outdoor) projects, primarily for the very long open time.
    Note that there are some downsides to buying this in quantity -- if there are munchkins in the vicinity, pay attention if they start asking about borax...

    I would recommend dating your glue bottles.

    Matt

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Matthew Hills View Post
    I would recommend dating your glue bottles.
    This is when your lifestyle leads to desperation.

  15. #15
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    Titebond Original is the glue I have used for almost 30 years without any issues. However, a project might call for a different glue. Projects that will see high humidity or water will require two-part epoxy or Titbond III. If a long open time is needed, I like to use Titebond Extend and if I need very long open time, I'll use liquid hide glue. I have never used a vacuum press, but I read that Urea Formaldehyde or Resorcinol are the glues of choice.

    Also, I'm of the belief that if you are building an heirloom piece that is to last generations, hide glue should be used for joints that could fail from strain and age to allow for proper future repairs.

    By the way, I really dislike Titebond III because it can't be washed out of clothing.

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