4.5" Grinder carving tools - endgrain cutting board

[andrew whicker]

Hi all. Hope everyone is doing well.

A friend is getting married. Was thinking of spicing up the std maple endgrain cutting board. Was thinking making thick as usual (2" or so), but cupping out the bottom so that it is lighter, suddenly has four legs and just looks a bit different. Obviously only one cutting surface.

I've never used any of these grinder carving tools. I'm not into the chainsaw type blades. I don't think this will be a ton of material to remove. Was looking at the rotary plane, the spiky kind or the abrasive kind. Was leaning towards the Arbortech Turbo Plane. My fear is having it skip around on me due to the end grains vs long grains.

Thoughts?

Cheers,

PS: here is my take on cutting boards. Haven't made one for a while, but I like this look. Imagine this with the bottom cupped out to reveal four legs or maybe two.

IMG_1574.jpg

[Peter Christensen]

A router would accomplish much the same unless you want a free form shape under it. Run incremental passes over the bit in a router table.

[Rod Sheridan]

One of the easiest methods of doing that would be to make the two outside strips thicker than the majority, and cut them on the band saw to profile before gluing them to the cutting board.

It will save a lot of time and material............Regards, Rod.

[andrew whicker]

That's why they pay you the big bucks.

[Doug Garson]

I would use a router bowl bit like this. https://www.amazon.ca/Yonico-14961-T...SR0FVDEGX&th=1

[andrew whicker]

Related question:

What type of hand tool produces this texture:

https://goo.gl/images/5xcZ9T

texture example.jpg

[Jamie Buxton]

I use the arbortech blade with three big teeth. It is a great tool - carves away large amounts of wood quickly.

I also have a couple of those structured carbide wheels (those spikey discs). They work okay, but are considerably slower. I generally do initial shaping with the Arbortech, and move to the structured carbide for finer cleanup.

[Peter Christensen]

Related question:



What type of hand tool produces this texture?

Carving gouge. Maybe a # 3 or #5 sweep (curve).

[andrew whicker]

Any issues with end grain using the arbotech?

[andrew whicker]

Thanks much!

[Zachary Hoyt]

I use a Kutzall rotary rasp type disc in a grinder to rough carve fiddle, mandolin and archtop guitar soundboards and backs, and it works pretty well. End grain is going to be a bit harder and slower, though.

[Jamie Buxton]

Any issues with end grain using the arbotech?

Not much. Well, maybe one...If you cut near the edge of the board, you want to be cutting in toward the center of the board. Cut going out, and you'll likely get chip-out. Not surprising.

[Andrew Hughes]

I’ve actually made something similar to what your thinking. I call it the pocket board one side is flat one side is ramped.
its good for cutting veggies and fruit.
I did have a couple split in the short grain edge. I think long grain glueup would be better.
Im interested to see what you come up with.
Heres one of mine.

[Kevin Beitz]

I use the Chain saw wheels... Very dangerous.... Very....
After I remove most of the wood then I use 3m Type C
Fibre Discs Disc 16 Grit 7 " Oxide Aluminum Heavy
Duty with and old Black and decker hand sander.
The 16 grit is expensive and hard to find but works
great. i find them on E-bay.

[Doug Garson]

I don't understand why anyone would use a handheld grinder with any type of wheel to hollow out the underside of a cutting board. A router bowl bit with a template would be much safer. Agreed a grinder can remove material much quicker but that is the problem. One slip and you've trashed the whole project.