Results 1 to 8 of 8

Thread: What is the best Chop thickness for end vise with dog hole

  1. #1

    What is the best Chop thickness for end vise with dog hole

    Hi guys, this is my first post on these forums so my apologies in advance if my noobiness shows through.
    I am currently working on a design for my first woodworking bench and would like to make a small end vise with a dog hole in the chop so it could double as a wagon vise. I'm wondering if there is a general rule of thumb for how thick the chop would need to be to support a dog and withstand the clamping pressure without blowing out. The bench will have a solid 3" top, if that ties into the equation at all.

    Thanks in advance for any enlightenment you can provide.

    -Jon
    Last edited by Jon Crafting; 02-06-2019 at 2:07 PM.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    SoCal
    Posts
    22,512
    Blog Entries
    1
    Probably as many variations on this as answers. I have a small work holding station that uses a 1" chop with a 3/4" round dog and is fine for smaller stuff. My main bench chops are 2"-plus thick with four dog holes along them and I can pretty much crush things if I am not careful.

    TNNW (73).jpg
    Last edited by glenn bradley; 02-06-2019 at 2:12 PM.
    "A hen is only an egg's way of making another egg".


    – Samuel Butler

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    SE PA - Central Bucks County
    Posts
    65,885
    What material you use is going to be part of the equation, too...
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  4. #4
    @Glenn - Thanks for the references, that helps at least get be started.

    @Jim - Good point. While I know hardwood would be best, if I use yellow pine would you think that 2" would be adequate or would I need to go thicker such as 2.5" or 3"?

    Thanks,

    Jon

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Perth, Australia
    Posts
    9,494
    I would be using hardwood (and Australian timber is Hard). If you plan to use yellow pine for a tail vise, thicker would be better (Yellow pine is not one found in Oz, but my understanding is that it hardens as it ages?). Still, you are not going to crank down that much, so 2" should be fine (with a 3/4" dog hole centred). Watch the grain direction - creating a quartersawn edge on the top side might be a recipe for splitting.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    SoCal
    Posts
    22,512
    Blog Entries
    1
    I would do some testing with your pine. Most pines are well under 1000 on the jamka scale where something like American beech is 1300 and hard maple is 1450. You will be applying pressure via a screw. Your leverage will be substantial (you won't need much to hold your work). On the other hand, if the pine fails you just make a new chop. If it doesn't, you're golden.
    "A hen is only an egg's way of making another egg".


    – Samuel Butler

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Location
    Michigan
    Posts
    2,772
    As you said "first bench" don't overthink it.

  8. #8
    Thanks again for the feedback guys. Great points all.

    @ Tom - True, but the planning is part of the fun too The goal I guess is to not over plan it to the point where it gets too complicated to even start.

    @ Glenn - "if the pine fails you just make a new chop" is an awesome bit of advise. That bit along with Tom's took out the little bit of worry I had, and I'll just go with it and see how it works.

    @ Derek - Good point. I'm not sure I'd have oriented the grain incorrectly, but it also wasn't something I was thinking about so thanks for bringing that up.

    Cheers!

    -Jon

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •