Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 15 of 16

Thread: Exterior joinery?

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Location
    SE Michigan
    Posts
    3,222

    Exterior joinery?

    I’ve been asked to rebuild a lost and found pole for our local park. Picture below. It was originally made by a local woodworker, now deceased. They have asked that I keep the original design. Most of it is straight forward. My question is the horizontal cross pieces. It is currently butt joint with metal angel iron braces top and bottom with the additional decorative iron curved support piece on the left, and chain on the right. Is that the best solution? I’m thinking some robust M&T can’t hurt. Is there another way anyone might suggest?
    Thank you!

    D9928309-3074-4BB4-9930-84BEF22E8CE5.jpg

    Sorry for the sideways photo...iphone.

    _rotate.jpg
    Last edited by John K Jordan; 02-05-2019 at 7:36 PM. Reason: rotated photo

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Kansas City
    Posts
    2,652
    Lap joint would be best, I think.

  3. #3
    I also vote half lap.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    McKean, PA
    Posts
    15,594
    Blog Entries
    1
    Before I peeked at the other response I said a lap joint would be best. Also use treated lumber or Cedar for longer life.

    If that little plate on the cross bar has the original woodworkers name be sure to include it with your name on the replacement.
    Last edited by Lee Schierer; 02-05-2019 at 6:58 PM.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Location
    SE Michigan
    Posts
    3,222
    Thanks all, lap joint it is. Good eye Lee. Yes, that small plaque will be cleaned up and reinstalled. I think I will also attempt to rehab and reuse the finial.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Location
    Carrollton, Georgia
    Posts
    1,815
    Phil, you are to be commended for your civic commitment. They are, however, asking you for a favor. If you're unhappy with or feel you can approve on the design, if it were me, I would insist on offering on my own design and, if their design decision made me less than comfortable, I would decline the commission. Your woodworking reputation depends, not only on the quality of the joinery but the overall design, as well. That post, or whatever you choose to come up with, will be there for a long time and your name will always be associated with it. Indeed, you mentioned the designer and maker of the post you're being asked to replace in your comments. I say, come up with your own design that will be appreciated for its uniqueness, if you feel you can do better. ..Strictly my 2’.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Location
    Princeton, NJ
    Posts
    7,254
    Blog Entries
    7
    I’d use a draw bored rod tenon.
    Bumbling forward into the unknown.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    SoCal
    Posts
    22,492
    Blog Entries
    1
    I'd use a half lap for that supported cross member.
    "A hen is only an egg's way of making another egg".


    – Samuel Butler

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Location
    SE Michigan
    Posts
    3,222
    Brian, for clarification, would you use a metal rod or wooden. I understand drawbored...just not sure on the “rod” part.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Doylestown, PA
    Posts
    7,551
    Quote Originally Posted by Yonak Hawkins View Post
    Phil, you are to be commended for your civic commitment. They are, however, asking you for a favor. If you're unhappy with or feel you can approve on the design, if it were me, I would insist on offering on my own design and, if their design decision made me less than comfortable, I would decline the commission. Your woodworking reputation depends, not only on the quality of the joinery but the overall design, as well. That post, or whatever you choose to come up with, will be there for a long time and your name will always be associated with it. Indeed, you mentioned the designer and maker of the post you're being asked to replace in your comments. I say, come up with your own design that will be appreciated for its uniqueness, if you feel you can do better. ..Strictly my 2’.
    If Phil has to do something he doesn't really agree with, he could do the work as a favor to the community but don't really "own" it.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Location
    Princeton, NJ
    Posts
    7,254
    Blog Entries
    7
    Quote Originally Posted by Phil Mueller View Post
    Brian, for clarification, would you use a metal rod or wooden. I understand drawbored...just not sure on the “rod” part.
    Phil, it’s a long tenon that engages a long mortise in the receiving part. In this case the upright would be trapped between the two engaging parts and the draw bore retains everything in place.
    Bumbling forward into the unknown.

  12. #12
    If I understand Brian's description correctly, he's talking about something like this.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Location
    SE Michigan
    Posts
    3,222
    Dave, thank you very much for posting that link. I was not interpreting it correctly...the visual makes it very clear.

  14. #14
    You're welcome.

    FWIW, if I were going to assemble it that way, I would not actually drill all the way through for the pegs and I'd make the pegs short enough that face grain bungs could be installed over the exposed ends of the pegs. Otherwise those pegs will wick moisture into the joint. This isn't the sort of project that is likely to be disassembled at some point so the pegs will probably never need to be driven out after the thing is assembled.

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Location
    South West Ontario
    Posts
    1,502
    A Wedged Thru Tenon with a 1” sloped shoulder is visually more interesting.
    ​You can do a lot with very little! You can do a little more with a lot!

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •