Success: Sawstop Upgrade 1.75hp/110V to 3hp/220V

[Scott Bernstein]

I didn't come across too many reports of upgrading the motor in a SawStop PCS, so I thought I would mention my experience. I purchased the 110V/1.75hp model because, at the time, I had only an old 60A main breaker panel in the house which was completely full and was not ready to make the investment in installing new service, new breaker panel, and re-wiring things. The 1.75hp model worked pretty well, actually, although it struggled through thicker stock. Eventually I did hire an electrician and he installed a new 200A service to the house, a much larger load center (breaker panel), and also a 60A sub-panel/transfer switch for a generator when the power goes out. He also added a 220V line in the garage for a 220v band saw I had just purchased. That was about 2 years ago and I finally got around to the sawstop upgrade. First thing I did was run another 220 line to the table saw. I used the same 4-pole outlet the electrician used for the first 220 oulet - a 30amp NEMA L14-30.

No problem getting the new motor and 220v controller from the company. Switching out the motor was relatively straight forward - you need someone to help you or a small table, wood box, etc...to rest the 50lb motor as you fasten the mounting screws. Tensioning the belt was also easy - I was advised to wedge a piece of 2x4 between the motor housing and a large steel pinion under the table, then use the height adjuster wheel in the front to apply tension. Then tighten the motor mount screws - easy!

Next you remove the old switch contactor box and also open the smaller start-switch box. Connect the new contactor wires to the start-switch and the motor. Then re-assemble both components (remember to feed the wires through the appropriate holes in the cabinet) and re-mount both components.

Next, I had to remove the three-prong 220v plug from the contactor box and replace it with a NEMA L14-30P 4-prong plug compatible with my outlets. The sawstop requires only two hot wires and the ground (not the neutral), so that prong is not used.

Once that was done the saw was ready to fire. I quickly found that I was getting false-triggers of the brake. This required replacing the brake "cable" from the starter switch box to the arbor and brake cartridge holder in the saw - apparently there was a loose or broken conductor in this cable somewhere along this process. I replaced that cable (which took longer than the motor) but now it works great! Spins up instantly and the extra power is great.

Scott B

[John Lanciani]

If you wired an L14-30 receptacle with only 3 wires you’ve created a code violation and a huge safety issue for someone down the road. L14-30 is a four wire 120/240 volt receptacle with a separate neutral and ground. For straight 240 volt you should be using L6-30.

[Jim Dwight]

Congratulations. I've only had my 1.75hp PCS a few months and keep doing other stuff but so far I like it. The only lack of power situation was ripping an old stair tread (repurposed for a dresser) where the wood pinched the full kerf 50 tooth blade. A thicker splitter might have helped. A ripping blade would have done better. A thin kerf ripping blade might have been best. I've cut over 2 inches deep with it using the original blade and it didn't have a power issue. My previous table saw had a 15A universal motor and it always did what I needed. But I have to switch to a ripping blade for deeper rips and sometimes I have to slow the feed rate. But with the old saw, I cut over 3 inches deep in hardwood when I needed to. I'm sure the SawStop will do the same but I'm still working out what blades it likes best. I was a bit surprised to have an issue in 1 inch oak.

I am sure with the 3hp motor you would not have had an issue. You can probably use a all purpose blade for just about everything. That would save some time.

[ChrisA Edwards]

I swapped out my PCS175 to the 3HP motor a couple of weeks ago.

Pretty straight forward swap. I took the left table extension off to give myself a little more working room. To mount the motor, I sat on a mechanics stool, put the new motor in my lap and rolled up to the saw, this was just about the perfect height to allow me to support the heavy motor and left my hands free to slip the belt on and insert the two bolts.

So far so good.

[Scott Bernstein]

Thanks for pointing that out, John. No code violation, the L14-30R (receptacle) is wired correctly with two hots, ground, and neutral. However the SawStop does not use a neutral, just two hots & ground so that is how I wired the L14-30P (plug) on the SawStop extension cord. I just needed the four-prong plug to fit my four-prong outlet. I do not need 30amps - it's overkill - but the first 220 outlet I had installed used a 30amp breaker and four-prong outlet (also wired correctly) so I wanted to be consistent throughout the garage. I plan to add a third such receptacle for a future dust collector, plus three more 20A 110V outlets (each on separate breakers).