Band Saw Blades

[Jim Koepke]

My bandsaw blade developed a couple of cracks.

My first thought was how long a blade should last. Then that doesn't make sense because it also likely has a lot to do with use.

Then just now discovered my bandsaw has been in my shop longer than my memory remembers. That is why it is good to have an easy way to check your history.

The blade was a 3/4" blade and has been on the bandsaw for about a year and a half.

Probably most bandsaw users know when you hear a different sound coming from the band saw it is time to investigate.

My blade started to wonder front to back and then stated to make a ticking noise. My guess about the wondering was caused by the band tracking was thrown off when the crack was going across the wheel the tension and geometry changed a little, changing the tracking.

Unplugging it and then turning it by hand led me to the point that was hitting the guide bearings. This also revealed the band moving on the wheel.

Dang, changing bandsaw blades and doing all the adjustments is not one of my favorite chores. It is a good time to get out the shop vac and clean it all up.

jtk

[John K Jordan]

I'm glad you caught it before it broke - that could be startling! I've broken one blade in at least 10 years and it sure got my attention. I didn't hear any odd sounds beforehand. I always wondered where the blade would go if it breaks this one just expanded instantly away from the tires and didn't go anywhere.

I stick to the same Lenox 1/2"x3tpi blades on my 18" bandsaw so the side guides seldom need adjustment and changing takes only a few minutes. I did make a small modification to the bolt that aligns the table at the slot - I epoxied the washers to the bolt and thumbscrew so it's quicker to take off and I don't risk dropping one.

JKJ

[Jim Koepke]

One or two of mine have broken during use. One time a little bit of blade spilled out on to the table.

The last few time the blade started wandering or making a swish swish noise like something was rubbing in synch with the blade rotation.

This is the only blade that has been on this bandsaw since it was purchased in June of 2017.

jtk

[Guy Donham]

Bandsaw blades break for various reasons. Usually it is because of the stresses on the blade and because it is cold in most places right now the steel is more brittle. Smaller saws usually crack blades more than larger machines because the blade is bending more on the tighter radius of a small machine.

I recently bought a SCM S400P 16" bandsaw with a 4.8 HP motor. I got a Lenox 1"Woodmaster Carbide Tooth blade with 1.3 TPI. The combination of the horsepower and the carbide blade makes resawing a pleasure. I resawed a 15.5" piece of red oak and it was like sending butter through the blade.

I got my blade at Spectrum Supply and they custom made it and shipped in about a week. They were the cheapest and turned out to be very fast. spectrumsupply.com

[Jim Becker]

Thanks for that supplier, Guy. Their prices are indeed good.

[John K Jordan]

I use my band saw a lot and I've had a lot of blades break during use. Indeed, I can change out a broken blade. including coiling up and tying the broken one, in 250 seconds and get back to sawing. I have never had the broken blade, or any part of it, spill out of the cabinet. Most often I can hear the blade begin to thump, which indicates it's about to go, so it never comes as a surprise. Broken blades are a part of band saw life when it's used a lot.

That makes me curious, since I also use my bandsaw a lot and breakage almost never happens. I usually use each blade a long time too since I resharpen several times before putting on a new one. I usually saw some every day, sometimes for hours when working on turning blanks.

I wonder what's different? Blade type, blade size, bandsaw size, tension, guide type, tire type, cutting method (tight curves, etc)

Mine is an 18" Rikon with Lennox 1/2" blades (made locally), tensioned checked with a tension meter, bearing for side and thrust guides, mostly straight lines in wood 2" to 12" thick (green and dry domestic hardwoods and exotics).

JKJ

[Yonak Hawkins]

I use my band saw a lot and I've had a lot of blades break during use. Indeed, I can change out a broken blade. including coiling up and tying the broken one, in 150 seconds and get back to sawing. I have never had the broken blade, or any part of it, spill out of the cabinet. Most often I can hear the blade begin to thump, which indicates it's about to go, so it never comes as a surprise. Broken blades are a part of band saw life when it's used a lot.

I've had the best luck with blades from Industrial Blade and the worst, as far as breaking and customer service, from Supercut.

[Yonak Hawkins]

John, I have thought about this a lot and, for me, it comes down to a plethora of bad welds coming from several suppliers. I can only guess I have chosen bad suppliers. I re-solder my broken band saw blades and I've only had one to break again at the joint that I have repaired, continuing to use them in the same manner, on the same saw and the same types of cuts. It is, truly, a mystery to me, as I know others have not had the same bad luck I have.

I use, almost exclusively, 1/4" and 3/16" blades as I cut fairly tight curves in 3/4" thick maple (3/16" blade) and 1-3/4" thick ash (1/4" blade), but not tighter than is recommended for the blades, and I always burnish the back edges of the blades. Something tells me the welds of narrower blades may not hold as well as it's the 3/16" blades that fail most often.

[Jim Koepke]

I got my blade at Spectrum Supply and they custom made it and shipped in about a week. They were the cheapest and turned out to be very fast. spectrumsupply.com

Thanks Guy, their page is now bookmarked.

One thing that was noticed is some of their blades are made by Lenox. My recollection is the Lenox blades had a lot of set to them.

My solution was to run the blade through a vise to lessen the set. After that the blades seemed to cut smoother and quieter.

Anyone else have difficulties with too much set?

jtk

[Jim Koepke]

Bandsaw blades break for various reasons. Usually it is because of the stresses on the blade and because it is cold in most places right now the steel is more brittle.

It could be the cold. It has been in the 30's in my shop at night of late. Usually gets up to the high 30s to low 40s when my shop time starts.

jtk

[John K Jordan]

John, I have thought about this a lot and, for me, it comes down to a plethora of bad welds coming from several suppliers. I can only guess I have chosen bad suppliers. I re-solder my broken band saw blades and I've only had one to break again at the joint that I have repaired, continuing to use them in the same manner, on the same saw and the same types of cuts.

It sounds like you are the perfect candidate for buying blade stock and just rolling your own! I don't know how much you have to buy at once but a local fabricator might sell just the length you want.

I get mine made at Holston Gas next to I-275 in Knoxville. https://www.holstongases.com/ The guy in the bandsaw blade shop is very good. If I make arrangements or catch him at the right time he can make some up while I wait. He's even ordered special blade stock when I wanted something he didn't usually carry. I'm going to order some blades for my Woodmizer next time I go. Best to take an old blade that fits so he can match the size.

JKJ

[Dick Strauss]

I've seen 100' blade coils for the braze your own crowd. The coils may be available in smaller lengths.

[Guy Donham]

Any blade can break because of a bad weld, but useage has more to do with it then blade quality. Someone that does straight resaw will likely have less breakage or cracking. Those who do more scroll saw type work on their bandsaw will stress the blade more by bending it while it is rotating. For every rule there is always an exception. I have resawed thousands of feet of maple, oak and beech and never has a blade break. I do not do any scroll or curve type work on my bandsaw. Before I got my big saw I had a Ridgid 14" bandsaw with a 6" riser. The saw would dance and moan a lot but always got the job done. I recently sold the Ridgid and someone else is dancing with it now and I do not miss that under powered motor. I used the PS Wood blades that were made of the Swedish Silicone Steel because you do not need as much tension as a regular blade. That may have also contributed to less stress on the blades because you do not need a lot of tension to cut well. The blades were called Timberwolf and I liked them for the little saw. My big saw has a carbide blade and that cuts even better and smoother and lasts a lot longer. Today I was resawing some red oak that cut down to 15.5 inches to get it through the saw. The red oak could be pushed through very easily even though I was almost at the capacity of the saw.

[andy bessette]

On my 20" Agazanni I have been using the same 1" carbide bade for about 10 years. In spite of their initial high cost they are a great bargain.

[Mike Ontko]

Glad to hear the failure wasn't catastrophic, Jim!

I'm still a relative newbie with my bandsaw--only had it for about three or four years now. To help extend the life of the blades, I've tried to be diligent about releasing the tension after every use. But my saw is a newer one with a quick tensioning lever.