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Thread: Cleaning filters

  1. #31
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Woodstock, VA
    Posts
    1,006
    Well, I have to admit to overlooking the obvious, well not really that obvious.......in short, I found the thermal overload switch. It's tucked under the wire box and the way the motor is mounted it's impossible to see from any direction.

    Of course this still leaves me with a motor that's getting so hot it shuts off so I still need to determine what's causing that. I plan to investigate the centrifugal switch to see if it's sticking. Could that cause the motor to run hot?

    I really appreciate everyone's input with this, it's nice that we can come here and bounce ideas and knowledge around. And it's nice to have a group of people who share in the obsession of woodworking......most of my non-ww'ing friends think I'm crazy!

  2. #32
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    E TN, near Knoxville
    Posts
    12,298
    You may well be crazy anyway but that's OK.
    How long did it run before it shut off?

    This seems like the the perfect opportunity to measure:
    - the line voltage (at breaker and at motor, off and running)
    - current on both legs as described earlier. With blast gates open and closed.
    - the temperature.

    I'd probably only run it briefly and not long enough to shut off. Repeated overloads could cause damage.

    Some possibilities: Bad thermal overload switch. Current too high from internal damage. Voltage too low causing current too high. Abnormal drag on the motor (causing current too high) Wiring problem. Wrong motor.

    Or you can still take the motor down and let the shop check it out.

    JKJ

    Quote Originally Posted by Jeff Bartley View Post
    Well, I have to admit to overlooking the obvious, well not really that obvious.......in short, I found the thermal overload switch. It's tucked under the wire box and the way the motor is mounted it's impossible to see from any direction.

    Of course this still leaves me with a motor that's getting so hot it shuts off so I still need to determine what's causing that. I plan to investigate the centrifugal switch to see if it's sticking. Could that cause the motor to run hot?

    I really appreciate everyone's input with this, it's nice that we can come here and bounce ideas and knowledge around. And it's nice to have a group of people who share in the obsession of woodworking......most of my non-ww'ing friends think I'm crazy!

  3. #33
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Woodstock, VA
    Posts
    1,006
    I've been nursing this motor along by using it for short periods of time and also using a roll-around dust collector for some machines, I finally disassembled the dust collector and then the motor.

    After taking the motor apart I could feel a little roughness in the lower bearing so I figured I'd just replace the bearings while it was apart and go from there. The bearings weren't expensive and the replacement was quick and easy but no luck: it still heats up quick.

    I haven't run it long enough to trip the overload but within a few minutes it's running somewhere in the 170 F range. I plan to buy a clamp on amp meter to see what the amp load is with all gates closed.

    If anyone (John J?) would be so helpful to measure temp and amp load of their ClearVue I would be grateful!

    As it is I'm thinking I'll be buying a motor soon. Just for kicks I'm gonna see if a local motor shop has a 3 phase motor that fits....then I'll buy a VFD. Otherwise I'd likely buy another Leeson from ClearVue.

  4. #34
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    NW Arkansas
    Posts
    1,957
    Blog Entries
    1
    I've a leeson on a preformax sander. It trips badly and overheats when loaded at what is 50 percent of what should be capacity. I can rarely get a 8 inch wide board run through the thing without tripping while only taking light cut. It seems to me leeson is either over rating their motors or cutting corners somewhere. Mine gets hot quickly.

    I've got 2 vfds on my lathe and Ras. No issues at all with overheating or speed changes. I can reverse lathe from full speed forward to reverse with a flick of a switch. I use GE off Ebay for vfd source.
    Woodworking, Old Tools and Shooting
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    PM2000, Delta BS, Delta sander, Powermatic 50 jointer,
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    Rockwell 46-450 lathe, and 2 Walker Turner RA1100 radial saws
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  5. #35
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    West Lafayette, IN
    Posts
    6,530
    I wouldn’t judge any motor by its performance on a drum sander. They are notorious for stalling even with a “light” cut.

    Jeff, I just finished installing my Clearvue and i’ll Start ductwork in a week or so after my kids start school again. I’ll be able to let you know how a brand new Leeson works and how hot it’s gets after that.

    Have you called CV to see if they have any suggestions?

  6. #36
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Woodstock, VA
    Posts
    1,006
    I have spoken to ClearVue, they were really helpful but didn't really know much more than the specs on a new motor.

    It's curious that the motor tag says 5hp but it's a 145T frame and according to the motor guy I spoke with a 5hp 'c' frame should be a 184TC.

    Once I measure the amp load then I should have a better idea about how to proceed. I'm betting I'll be buying a new motor. The motor guy also said Leesons are know to run hot so whatever motor I buy I don't think it'll be another Leeson. I'll try and find a used 3 phase motor first.
    Last edited by Jeff Bartley; 08-03-2019 at 9:50 PM. Reason: Hit post by accident!

  7. #37
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Woodstock, VA
    Posts
    1,006
    One more thing I forgot to add: they don't list different sized taperlock bushings on their website but ClearVue told me if I switch to a 3 phase motor the shaft will likely be 1 1/8" and I'll need the proper bushing, they sell for $20.

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