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Thread: Stanley 9 1/2

  1. #1
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    Stanley 9 1/2

    I found a Stanley 9 1/2 at the back of a drawer.

    Before I go and fettle it, is this a useful plane? The reason I ask is that with a bed of 20° and a bevel of 25° that's 45°, same as a bench plane.

    I can see this being fine for long grain, but what about on end grain?

    I have a 60 1/2 too as it happens. Were they made for different purposes?

    Is there an argument to put a 30 or 35° bevel on the 9 1/2 and just not consider using it on end grain?

    thanks, looking forward to learning something.

  2. #2
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    Funny there was one of these found a week or two ago in one of my drawers, laying there forgotten.

    To me it is somewhat the same as using a bench plane without the knob and tote. My #102 is my go to block plane when a small standard angle plane is wanted.

    For me it is a usable tool, but rather redundant. For another it would be a fine choice when they want a smaller plane than their #3 or 4.

    jtk
    "A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
    - Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)

  3. #3
    I use my 9 1/2 planes all the time. I have one dedicated to chamfering, one set very fine for end grain or touching up face grain, another set more coarse, and another set fine as a spare. I find them more useful than 60 1/2 planes for whatever reason. I also carry one in my carpentry box.

  4. #4
    Block planes were designed for carpenters to carry around and use with one hand. They were called block planes because carpenters did an operation called blocking in: cutting a piece a little over long and planing the end grain to get a fit to just squeeze in.

    Your bench plane will do a fine job of planing end grain.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mark Gibney View Post
    I found a Stanley 9 1/2 at the back of a drawer.

    Before I go and fettle it, is this a useful plane? The reason I ask is that with a bed of 20° and a bevel of 25° that's 45°, same as a bench plane.

    I can see this being fine for long grain, but what about on end grain?

    I have a 60 1/2 too as it happens. Were they made for different purposes?

    Is there an argument to put a 30 or 35° bevel on the 9 1/2 and just not consider using it on end grain?

    thanks, looking forward to learning something.
    Mark, try the plane after adding a 40 degree secondary bevel. Add a little camber at the same time. (use a honing guide to do this).

    What you now have is a one-handed smoother. This will be terrific for small sections where you are concerned about tearout, and especially for chamfering edges.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek

  6. #6
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    Thanks for the replies guys.
    I think I'll put a 40° secondary bevel on the iron à la Derek and get smoothing.

  7. #7
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    Checking back in with an update - I put a 40° bevel on the 9 1/2, lapped the sole, and it works great as a one-handed smoother.

    It's light, and a good size to hold. I've been using it when a piece is too big to be easily clamped, but is not heavy enough to resist being pushed around by planing, so I need my free hand to hold it.

  8. #8
    Good to hear that you’re liking your No. 9 1/2.

    I already have a No. 1 smoother that’s absolutely awesome, but a few weeks ago I ordered a Stanley No. 9 1/2 to try out.

    It’s in, I just need to pick it up.

  9. #9
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    To my surprise, a #9-1/2 was found in a drawer the other day. My vague memory was it was purchased at an estate sale for less than $5.

    jtk
    "A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
    - Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)

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