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Thread: HF DC Retrofit OR Mini Gorilla?

  1. #16
    I’ve had my Harbor Freight DC with Wynn filter for 2 years of weekend hobby use. Worked great until last weekend when the impeller fell off the shaft in use. That’s a very alarming sound to hear when you’re in mid rip on a piece of hard maple.

    HF will replace it because I bought the 2 yr protection plan but I think I might go with another brand as a replacement.

  2. #17
    Get the best you can afford.

    I suspect the Oneida would give you better performance and it's plug and play... but I don't have any experience with that model...

    Better yet buy something used and make your budget go further. I see 3-5hp cyclones up for sale often on the used market.

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Jun 2017
    Location
    Landenberg, Pa
    Posts
    431
    I picked up the mini gorilla in October 2017, 220V version. Aside from stuffing the filter once because I’m an idiot and didn’t check the bin, it’s been a great machine. I hook it up to each machine individually (though I’m tempted to put hard pipes on the walls with flex drops to each machine), and it keeps up with an 8” jointer, a cabinet saw, a 13” planer, a router table, a 16-32 drum sander, and various other setups just fine. My only gripe is wheeling it around - I’d like to do the ducting as I said above, but that’s hardly a knock on the product. It works great and I have no fine dust issues or complaints regarding filtration or separation.

  4. #19
    Michael,

    I used to have the Wynn filter and it worked well (it was on a little Delta AP400 that didn't flow enough to satisfy me). I like the price and shape of the one Gray House Studios used but not because the Wynn functions poorly, it doesn't. But I want to try something different on it. One idea on the mini-gorilla that seems interesting and potentially usefull is to put a shop vac connection instead of a bag on the filter. I think running the shop vac on the DC filter while puffing a little air through the filter may be a good way to clean the filter. And just hooking the shop vac up occasionally should extract anything that drops out of the filter in normal use.

    Jim

  5. #20
    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Dwight View Post
    Michael,

    I used to have the Wynn filter and it worked well (it was on a little Delta AP400 that didn't flow enough to satisfy me). I like the price and shape of the one Gray House Studios used but not because the Wynn functions poorly, it doesn't. But I want to try something different on it. One idea on the mini-gorilla that seems interesting and potentially usefull is to put a shop vac connection instead of a bag on the filter. I think running the shop vac on the DC filter while puffing a little air through the filter may be a good way to clean the filter. And just hooking the shop vac up occasionally should extract anything that drops out of the filter in normal use.

    Jim
    Jim -

    Did you use the standard HF DC retro fit kit #35BA222NANO from Wynn? According to Wynn that filter has 222 sq. ft. of filtration area. The Oneida Mini Gorilla filter #FCS101935HF has 40 sq. ft. of filter area. A big difference. It's one of the reasons I decided to go ahead with the HF retrofit and not buy the Mini Gorilla.

  6. #21
    Yes, I used the Wynn retrofit kit, it was close to 10 years ago but I used the kit available at that time. I think it had about the same area as the current one. The Oneida does look small, not sure what is up with that. The filter that Gray House Studios used has 300 ft2 but costs less than the Wynn. But if you want to reuse the HF bag holder to mount the filter, the Wynn would work better for that.

    Jim

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Jul 2017
    Location
    Prairie Village, KS
    Posts
    397
    Quote Originally Posted by William Chain View Post
    I picked up the mini gorilla in October 2017, 220V version. Aside from stuffing the filter once because I’m an idiot and didn’t check the bin, it’s been a great machine. I hook it up to each machine individually (though I’m tempted to put hard pipes on the walls with flex drops to each machine), and it keeps up with an 8” jointer, a cabinet saw, a 13” planer, a router table, a 16-32 drum sander, and various other setups just fine. My only gripe is wheeling it around - I’d like to do the ducting as I said above, but that’s hardly a knock on the product. It works great and I have no fine dust issues or complaints regarding filtration or separation.
    My gorilla drove me crazy. It was always in the way. I wanted to duct it but Oneida told me the longest run it could handle was 15 feet so I compromised and did this:

    2018-10-11 20.17.34.jpg

    2018-10-11 20.17.24.jpg

    2018-10-11 20.17.52.jpg

    I have a ducted run to my table saw and the rest of the tools are hooked up via Rockler expandable flex hose. When I use the flex hose I only need about 10 feet of it to hook up to tools. I use all of it when I am cleaning up the shop. The DC isnt 100% effective setup like this but it's much more convenient. My next big shop purchase is a ClearVue CV1800.

  8. #23
    Finished the HF retrofit. 250 square feet of MERV 15 filtration. Thank you to the good folks here at the Creek who offered thoughts/advice with this project.
    DC.jpg

  9. #24
    Join Date
    Sep 2015
    Location
    San Diego, Ca
    Posts
    1,647
    I bought a 2 HP HF DC. It was okay but I want to avoid having any dust recirculated in my shop. So I added a Thien baffle. I could have bought a fine particle filter, but I live in a warm climate so I chose to vent it outside. At least 95% of the dust (perhaps much more) gets caught by the Thien baffle and goes into the 30 gallon galvanized trash can and the rest goes outside. I used the spiral-entry metal center section from a 1 HP HF DC for the Thien baffle. I picked up the 1 HP DC for $10 (it was plugged and perhaps the original owner didn't check it...). So, the catch barrel is a galvanized trash can (old and laying around), a plywood disk with a slot (for the baffle), the metal center section from the swap meet DC, another plywood disk and a flex tube from the top disk to the dust collector suction unit (mounted higher on the wall).

    Like the original poster, I already owned the 2 HP DC when I started this. So my out of pocket cost of new things that I had to buy was minimal. Perhaps $15 for the flapper vent and $40-50 for some 6" galvanized snap vent pipe and a couple of fittings. It probably isn't as good as a bigger and more sophisticated $1500 system but it works just fine for me.

  10. #25
    Wanted to bump this, as I have the same scenario and was wondering how you're liking the HF retrofit.

    I priced mine out at about $800 in parts (HF collector, 12" RIKON impeller, 20 gallon container, 5" SDD, HEPA filter, misc parts) and wondering if it's worth the extra $600 for the Mini Gorilla.

    I like the idea of a molded, all inclusive setup, but I have a feeling that's all I'd be getting for the extra $600.

  11. #26
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Tippecanoe County, IN
    Posts
    836
    Quote Originally Posted by Tom Hoppe View Post
    Wanted to bump this, as I have the same scenario and was wondering how you're liking the HF retrofit.

    I priced mine out at about $800 in parts (HF collector, 12" RIKON impeller, 20 gallon container, 5" SDD, HEPA filter, misc parts) and wondering if it's worth the extra $600 for the Mini Gorilla.

    I like the idea of a molded, all inclusive setup, but I have a feeling that's all I'd be getting for the extra $600.
    Tom, if you are considering the HFDC with a Rikon fan you might want to consider this. It looks like the HFDC with a 12" fan and a better motor for about the same price.
    Beranek's Law:

    It has been remarked that if one selects his own components, builds his own enclosure, and is convinced he has made a wise choice of design, then his own loudspeaker sounds better to him than does anyone else's loudspeaker. In this case, the frequency response of the loudspeaker seems to play only a minor part in forming a person's opinion.
    L.L. Beranek, Acoustics (McGraw-Hill, New York, 1954), p.208.

  12. #27
    Unfortunately I'm stuck with a 20 amp breaker. The description on that specifically states 25 amp breaker.

    Is that the same thing with the HFDC? If so, I might have to pony up for the Mini Gorilla just for the amp limitation...

  13. #28
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Tippecanoe County, IN
    Posts
    836
    Quote Originally Posted by Tom Hoppe View Post
    Unfortunately I'm stuck with a 20 amp breaker. The description on that specifically states 25 amp breaker.

    Is that the same thing with the HFDC? If so, I might have to pony up for the Mini Gorilla just for the amp limitation...
    I'm sure the 25A requirement is there to cover start current requirements. Start current depends upon both motor characteristics and load inertia. The start current value is a motor characteristic (specifically, Locked Rotor Current). The duration of that current value is determined by the rotational inertia of the load, in this case, the impeller.

    The HFDC with Rikon transplant requires that the breaker can hold about 65A for about 4 seconds. The breaker's trip curve tells you what the breaker can do. Different brands of breakers have different trip curves. There's also a fairly wide tolerance in the trip curve for a given breaker part number.

    I use SquareD QO breakers. According the the trip curve for these they are marginal. That is, 65A/4s is above the minimum and close to the nominal trip curve for these breakers. My breakers are QO and two of them at least will start the HFDC/Rikon combo. The Siemens trip curve I have should hold that easily. It varies.

    I don't know what the WEN needs. It has a 12" steel impeller so likely the same inertia as the Rikon. The Gorilla is also 12" but is listed as non-ferrous so likely an Aluminum alloy. It should be lighter so maybe the Gorilla starts more easily.

    I would guess that the WEN could be started by many 20A breakers but some will have trouble. With the 25A breaker listed as a requirement you can't order one just to try it on 20A and then send it back if it doesn't work. No seller likes returns.
    Beranek's Law:

    It has been remarked that if one selects his own components, builds his own enclosure, and is convinced he has made a wise choice of design, then his own loudspeaker sounds better to him than does anyone else's loudspeaker. In this case, the frequency response of the loudspeaker seems to play only a minor part in forming a person's opinion.
    L.L. Beranek, Acoustics (McGraw-Hill, New York, 1954), p.208.

  14. #29
    Since my earlier postings I've installed my upgraded HF 2hp DC and I like it. I used only the motor and blower of the HF and have them on top of a super dust deputy that has 6 inch outlet and 5 inch inlet. I changed the HF to six inch inlet and used a heat gun to soften the cyclone outlet so it would conform. I also softened the cyclone inlet to get it to link to 5 inch snap lock piping running to my table saw. The cyclone sits on top of a shop made wood box with a plexiglass window so I can check level. It holds about 70 gallons and has wheels for easier movement. I also hook my planner and jointer to the DC by disconnecting the table saw and hooking up a long flex hose I got from Peachtree (seems equivalent to the Rockler for $10 less). I was surprised how well that works at the planner. The HF blower discharges outside through a 6 inch fitting meant for a dryer.

    I may add the Rikon impeller but so far the HF seems to do what I need done without it.

    My DC sits in about 18 inches of space in a corner of my shop. I like that since I have little floor space and the shop is typically too messy to easily roll anything around.

  15. #30
    Nice! I'll have a similar setup with the same 5" SDD along with the 6" dryer 90 degree into the filter.

    So you're happy with just the HFDC without the Rikon impeller? I was thinking of going ahead with the $100 upgrade while I was getting everything put together. Wondering if that's even needed though, since the run I'll have is like 15 feet of flex hose right off the SDD into a tool and move it between tools. I don't have stationary tools, they are all on wheels, so the tool comes away from the wall to be used and I can just attach the hose from the DC to the tool.

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