Strange buffing question

[Brian Brown]

In the last couple of years or so, when I buff turned objects, I am getting a lot of "buff fluff" on the piece. The buff generates a lot of static that holds the buff fluff to the surface. It wipes right off, but still leaves some small traces of fluff that are hard to remove. It is terrible for pictures. My question is: Is this normal? Does it happen more with some finishes than others (I usually use lacquer)? Is there a way to ground the buff so there is not so much static? When I started buffing, I heard that it is easy to get too much Tripoli etc on the buff. If anything I don't use enough. Don't know if this would have anything to do with it or not. Any Ideas?

[Terry Morrill]

I have never had any trouble. I use the Beale system

[Darryl Hansen]

Brain i also use the Beal system and when the humidity is low (like now around here) I have the same problem. I think it is the static electricity that causes it. Try wiping the finish with clothes softener paper the kind you put in the clothes dryer. That seems to help.

[John K Jordan]

Brain i also use the Beal system and when the humidity is low (like now around here) I have the same problem. I think it is the static electricity that causes it. Try wiping the finish with clothes softener paper the kind you put in the clothes dryer. That seems to help.

The static electricity also builds up a charge if you wear rubber soled shoes or stand on a rubber anti-fatigue mat while buffing. If I'm not careful what I touch afterwards I get a nasty shock.

A rag with a light mist of anti-static spray should discharge the charge and release the fluff. I don't think it would hurt any finish but would be wise to test it before wiping a $3500 gallery piece.

The spray worked well when I worked at a computer and moving around on a chair built up a charge.

JKJ

[Brian Brown]

I use a Beal system too. The humidity here is lower than a snakes belly this time of year. I would have thought that to be the problem except that I heat my shop with propane, and it increases the humidity to sauna level. I still get a good static pop if I bump the metal on my lathe when I am buffing. I'll try a used dryer sheet, because with my face shield I have found that new ones leave a film on the shield.

A rag with a light mist of anti-static spray should discharge the charge and release the fluff. I don't think it would hurt any finish but would be wise to test it before wiping a $3500 gallery piece.

OK, now I don't want a answer to my question anymore. I just want a piece that I could charge $3500 for.


JKJ

[robert baccus]

Move down here to the gulf coast.

[JohnC Lucas]

Here in Tennessee I don't have that problem but you can swim in our air most of the time. I use very little tripoli or white diamond on my wheels so I don't think that is your problem.

[Alex Zeller]

You might want to try an anti static wrist strap. You could put it on your ankle so the strap doesn't get in the way. They are real cheap.

[John K Jordan]

You might want to try an anti static wrist strap. You could put it on your ankle so the strap doesn't get in the way. They are real cheap.

I'd trip on that. Since I wear rubber shoes AND buff while standing on a rubber mat, I put a block of wood on the lathe and touch it to discharge. The resistance is high enough to prevent a shock. A piece of those conductive rubber pads that came with integrated circuit chips should work too. Or maybe spray the shoes, mat, and floor with the anti-static spray - I might try that before buffing next time.

[Dave Fritz]

I use a humidifier to raise the humidity when it drops below 40%. That also helps with chips and dust collecting on the lathe and my face shield.

[robert baccus]

Been buffing hotrods, metal, finished wood and bare wood since the 60's--a few thoughts. Since the Beale system popularized the buffing thing the world believes there is only one way to buff anything. You can buff with wheels, big flat pads, handheld electric drill pads, hand pads and many others I suspect. Using the hard wax compound sticks was developed for hard objects long ago and are not necessarily the best for wood. or finishes. Finished anything, cars, wood, metal ect is almost always better buffed with liquid compounds such as auto compounds in various grits and carnuba mixes(my fav.). Wax sticks do tend to burn finishes easily and build up on wheels and pads whereas liquids are actually hard to burn with while using. Don't be stingy with the wheels--use 2-3 together to make the job easier. Apply the liquids with your hand to the wheel and rub in--clean with a stick ect. Really hard woods can be buffed with stick compounds on bare woods followed by carnuba buffed on for a really nice finish. A #2 taper shaft with a threaded shaft and nut mounted in the headstock is the sweetest way to buff with wheels.

[John K Jordan]

...A #2 taper shaft with a threaded shaft and nut mounted in the headstock is the sweetest way to buff with wheels.

When I bought the Beale many years ago it came with one 2MT mandrel with instructions to change the wheels by removing and refastening the bolt. After doing this once I bought a separate 2MT mandrel for each wheel - SO much quicker.

After I bought mine they came out with three wheels on one shaft to mount on the lathe. I don't like the idea of that - perhaps it is ok for small things but the wheels look too close to together for clearance on some larger things I've buffed.