How Do I Do This Glue Up?

[Doug Garson]

One trick, you may have already thought of this, is to clamp the boards together face to face so the fingers line up. This makes it easier to apply the glue to all the fingers at once. Does the box have a bottom, how is it attached? It should help square up the bottom of the box. Another tip to help clean up excess glue. Run painters tape inside and outside along the edge of the fingers where the glue will squeeze out.

[Mike Henderson]

If you're concerned about the glue causing wood swelling prior to assembly, use a glue that is not water based. Epoxy is one.

Mike

[Derek Arita]

If you're concerned about the glue causing wood swelling prior to assembly, use a glue that is not water based. Epoxy is one.

Mike

Mike, wish I thought of that before. Of course, I'd have to buy the faster set cure, but even the fast set is slow enough, I think. I also like that it fills any gaps that may be present. I didn't even think of it not being water based. That sure would have been a great choice. Next time, for sure.
Doug, I did use tape to help with cleanup and I did put joints face to face for glue application.
I did opposite corners first, then when I did the final glue up, I pulled the box square. Also, the top will be inset and a snug fit, so it should help pull it all square. I ended up using ratchet straps with cauls that I positioned just off the finger ends.
Jared, those boxes are awesome! If you do another, please post the glue up procedure and clamping.

[Edwin Santos]

Edwin,

Yes, white glue is better regular yellow glue. But working time/assembly time, which is more important, is not the same as open time. This has been covered before: https://www.wwgoa.com/article/measur...assembly-time/

With the protruded edges, it is easier to glue up the "box" as one than handling a "L" shaped glue-up -- twice. For more complex glue-ups, it is advisable to break down the assembly job, but this isn't one of them. I have done many finger joint drawers (plywood) for the shop, and as long as the fit was not over-tight, swelling had not been an issue.

If the OP has some scrap finger parts around, glue up a sample to see how bad the swelling is.

Simon

Hello Simon,
I went to the interesting article in your link. Very good article. It only reinforces the guidance from Frank to use Elmer's Glue-All in a case like this. In the article they are defining and using the term "assembly time" as the length of time between applying the glue and when the workpiece should not be manipulated any more. Elmer's Glue-All provided 37 minutes to Titebond Original at 11 minutes.

I use the terms "assembly time" and "open time" interchangeably and the author of your article does so also, at least once. But you are correcting me above that these terms are not the same. So then what does "open time" mean to you?

Thanks,
Edwin

[Derek Cohen]

Derek, my choice is Titebond liquid hide glue. This has the advantages of a long open time, clean up with water, non-staining, and it lubricates the joint when pushing the parts together. The latter is really valuable at such time.

I do not do box joints, but have done a great many dovetailed carcases with a similar number of sockets to glue up at each end. My strategy is to glue up three sides, push them together, square them up, wipe them down, and then (in a slightly more relaxed manner), glue in the fourth side. I should add that I only add glue to one board side of the joint, and not both. Enough glue is in the joint for both sides, and this method is twice as fast.

The advantage of dovetails is that they are self-locking, but often the boards need to be pulled tighly together since wood moves and the boards are no longer perfectly flat. Since there is open time, I simple add clamps where needed. Cauls sound a good idea - I have some which are covered in electrician's tape to be free from glue.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Simon MacGowen]

I use the terms "assembly time" and "open time" interchangeably and the author of your article does so also, at least once. But you are correcting me above that these terms are not the same. So then what does "open time" mean to you?

Thanks,
Edwin

Edwin,

If you are using the two interchangeably, then your original comment is fine, but I know a lot of woodworkers who mix up the two as the same thing. They wonder why with a stated 15 mins of open time, their joint freezes over in 5 minutes or so under even little clamp force. The misunderstanding is widespread, partly because open time, working time, assembly time and clamping time that glue vendors throw around are seldom explained.

I have this saved (not my words) in a file:

"Open time would be the time the glue is exposed to the air before it dries too much, skins over, to form a good bond. Working time is the time the parts have been brought together but not fully positioned but still can be moved w/o hurting the bond."

In case anyone who does not know: not all white glues are the same. My Lepage multi-purpose white glue has 5 mins of open time only. I never use it for a complex glue-up. Old Brown glue is my go-to glue for very demanding glue-ups if working alone.

Simon