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Thread: Revo Issues

  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Olympia, WA
    Posts
    61

    Revo Issues

    I bought a new Revo 18/36 and have had some issues. I wanted to share and see if others had had similar issues, or at least level-set my expectations.

    I love the height and stability of the lathe, it is much more comfortable to turn on than my Jet 16/42. But...

    When I unpacked it I found that all the holes that were drilled had little metal disks still attached to the back side of the holes. So I had to make sure and remove them all before wiping off the packing grease or I would have cut my hand. The last part of the threads on the head stock also had debris and I had to remove it and straight out the thin part of the threads - near the head stock, where they start. None of this is major but from a "fit and finish" standpoint I thought they could have done better.

    The significant issues were that
    1) the revolving center taper was wrong. There was so much slop I could grab it by hand and I could move it and it would make clanging noises. All of my other drive and revolving centers fit fine. In fact they fit great. The alignment was dead-on. I let their customer service know and they sent me a replacement revolving center. This one was better, but was still lose. It does not clang, but when you engage it into the the work it has noticeable wobble. The bearings seem tight and it appears to be on the MT side, not in the guts.
    I let them know the second one wasn't great today and I'll see what they say. Maybe I'll be using my Oneway more until I can purchase a good one with threads on it so I can use my various accessories that go with it.

    2) When I tried to use the locking levels to hold things down (head stock, banjo, tail stock) the levers would spring back up. If I pushed them down hard enough that I could get them to stay, they were locked down so hard I had to hit them with a mallet to get them to un-stick. Customer service told me the coating on the bar inside can be too slick, so I needed to lightly scruff it with sand paper.
    The banjo wasn't too bad to pull apart, lightly sand and then reassemble. I don't think I got it all consistently so I may need to do it again.
    The tail stock was not much fun to pull apart, there is grease and key and all kinds of stuff. I managed to do it and it is better.
    I have not been brave enough to do the head stock yet. I think I need to clamp it to the lathe and then try and pull the bar out. I don't feel comfortable slinging that large weight around on a work bench and not breaking anything. Of course I'll need to clean up the entire area before I don this because there is probably a greasy key stock like there was in the tail stock.
    Also because the locking levers wouldn't work from the factory I assumed they hadn't been set properly so I fiddled with that before I contacted tech support. So I need to go back and readjust the nut on the banjo so it locks and slides better. The "sweet spot" seems to be really small.

    I really like the lathe, but the process has been disappointing. Based on the price and marketing I expected a higher quality experience right out of the box. My Jet was always a little off, but come on, it's a mid-range Jet! Now I wish I'd kept the revolving center when I sold it.
    I'm wondering if people have had similar experiences with this brand, or others. Am I expecting too much?

    Thanks
    Wes

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Peoria, IL
    Posts
    1,073
    You are extending the tail stock quill a little when you insert the live center aren't you? They are self ejecting and if the quill is retracted too far, the morse taper will not seat properly. I have to remind you Wes, you didn't buy a high end lathe. You spent less than half of what a high quality lathe costs. And these days that means it's up to the customer to do the final quality control and deburring. It can also mean you have to become the machine repairman to make it right. Now if you bought a Robust, Oneway, or VB36 and had all these issues, there would be something wrong.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Location
    Elmodel, Ga.
    Posts
    306
    Wes, I have the 18-36 and noticed on your issue #1 that if you turn the tail stock quill out just a tap, it will stop the slop. Your M2 taper is not seating all the way in unless it is extended a small bit.
    As far as the fit and finish, mine was perfect out of the box. No issues with burrs or debris in the holes, etc.
    On issue #2, I too have experienced the same problem. CS basically told me the same thing. I ended up loosening the bottom nut just a small fraction and it helped some.
    I really wish the part of the banjo that holds the tool rest was inset a little more. I feel when turning spindles that the lock lever is too close to the bed and that does contribute to the locking issue. If it was out further, it locks perfectly, but the tool rest is too far from the work piece.
    SWE

  4. #4
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Olympia, WA
    Posts
    61
    Thanks Richard,
    Good feedback on what to expect on the quality. I guess I always wondered what you would get when you buy in that $7K range. Now I have a better idea.
    Yes, the tail stock is all the way out, it wobbles at any position. None of my other centers have an issue across the tail stock range of travel.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Olympia, WA
    Posts
    61
    Steve,
    I've seen the same thing with the locking lever position when I try and move the banjo in very close. If you back the nut off the lever locks at such a low angle it is a problem when in close. But if you tighten it up to move the locking position it is hard to slide the banjo.
    Maybe we need to thin the locking plate/washer a little? I wonder if that would widen the "sweet spot" As Richard mentioned, above, maybe we've got to mechanic it a little.

  6. #6
    The only issue I had with mine is the "bounce back " of the locking levers.... the one on the tool rest has stopped doing it and locks fine now. On the tail stock I noticed if I had the tail stock pushed to the end of the bed because I wasn't using it and had the locking lever off...when I positioned the tail stock to use it , the lever would bounce. I would move it a few times then it would stick. What I do now is...when I'm not using the tail stock I lock it in place and it takes very little pressure to lock it and then when I'm going to move it I unlatch it and move it into position and again just very little pressure on the locking lever and it's locked well. Seems to me that the trick is to leave it latched when not using it and then it unlatches and latches with ease.... about 1/4" movement of the lever.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Haubstadt (Evansville), Indiana
    Posts
    1,102
    Guess I'm lucky, I didn't have any of those issues. I did have to replace the start stop switch. Laguna CS has treated me fine. I wonder if they changed mfgs, mine says made in Tiawan.
    When working I had more money than time. In retirement I have more time than money. Love the time, miss the money.

  8. Ditto, no problems with my machine either. I did have a slight problem with the "bounce back" but loosing the locking nut about 1/8 of a turn fixed that.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Location
    Smyrna Mills, Maine
    Posts
    43
    I have had the bounce back issue when I remove the tailstock and then put it back on when coring. It doesn't happen every time but when it does happen that's when. I have had no problems or complaints with the lathe, have had it about 2 years and really like it. I recently purchased the 20" extension kit, the tool rest extension broke off on the first bowl I was turning, the steel looked honey combed. I called Laguna and they sent me a new one right away and it works fine. The banjo could be a little longer turning off the 20" extension. When turning a large 25" bowl you have to get out to the end of the tool rest, it puts allot of strain on the banjo, if the banjo was longer you could work closer to the center of the tool rest.

  10. I bought the same lathe a few months ago and had the bounce back issue as well on the banjo. At first I tried to clean the grease off the internals from underneath, but it only partially solved the issue. I solved it permanently by taking the banjo apart (by removing the nut from underneath) and completely cleaning ALL of the grease off of the internals. They slobber grease all over the guts and it causes the issue. I cleaned every speck of grease off and now it works perfectly...

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