Member
I found for me welding just takes a lot of space, on top of the obvious stuff about grinding and cutting and oil everywhere.
I’m a guy who wants to do everything and I put a lot of money and energy into welding stuff. But I end up going to my friends metal shop up the road to do metal rather than build a whole new shop for it.
I didn’t mean for my comment to sound high handed.
[OP]
Member
Some more hardware has come in. Vintage planes from Patrick Leach.
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1930s #7 and Type 11 #4. Both are in great shape. I just touched up the blade on the #7 and used it right out of the box. I will do a better clean up on it later. Patrick’s prices were at the upper end of what I saw on eBay, but it is worth it to me to have a guarantee and know exactly what you are buying. It was a pleasure doing business with him!
Member
You have the Veritas Small Plow Plane on your list.
Why not get the Veritas Combination Plane?
Uses all of the Veritas blades and I believe it can use all of the Stanley combination blades. More versatile than the Small Plow.
Also, never used a vintage wooden rabbet, but with the Veritas Skew Rabbet in my till, never wanted to use a wooden one. The Skew is a great Plane.
[OP]
Member
Update. Have received most of the tools and really just waiting on the plow plane. I absolutely love the Lie-Nielson tapered saws. They fit me like a glove! I had planned to look at Hollows and rounds in the future, but Oatrick Leach had a set that called my name!
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Overall they are in great shape, a couple of irons will need to be reproduced, but the rest just need to be cleaned and sharpened.
Member
Careful or you'll seen have a right nice collection of tools, 80% of which you never use.
That said, its hard to pass up some deals.
Seriously, I think the best approach is buy the tools you need, rather than tools you 'think' you need.
This can really only be done by working through a project, realizing "now if I only had x, y, z tool".
That said, I try not to buy tools with very limited use. I remember picking up a side rabbet plane, thinking that had to be the niftiest thing go have. In 5 years I've used it maybe 3 times. Fortunately not an expensive item.
Then there is the idea of different ways to approach a task. For example, you can use a plow plane to plow a groove. But a router plane with a fence can accomplish the same task, albeit not as efficiently. This is something to think about if you don't like looking at another $300 tool on the shelf.
Last edited by Robert Engel; 03-19-2019 at 11:32 AM.
Member
The first question is. Sheet goods or solid wood. Both requires quite different tools. If there is still room get a compressor and nail gun. Can make your work and jigs fast. A belt sander will also be a good choice for both spectrum.Originally Posted by John Isgren
I tend to use dowels when it comes to sheet goods. Solid wood depends on the application. It can be very strong too. The type of tools you use for your projects really depends on your end goal. I have an array of hand tools. Now usually
using the block plane while the rest are in storage. At least for me the bandsaw is a must. Can rip wood very fast. Cross cut to it's final dimension is a good choice too.
[OP]
Member
Mostly solid wood with hand tools. Bandsaw is delivered and I do have a tablesaw, air compressor, nail guns etc for sheet good work
Member
+1 on lighting, the most essential item of all. Bounce lighting from the cheap aluminum incandescent reflectors photogs use is great.
Adding to your list, 6" and 18" hook rule. 6" essential, 18" nice to have.
And what's with the machines? I thought it was a "hand tool" shop
[OP]
Member
Lighting is 2/3 done. Putting 3 sets of strip lights in. Each strip has 3-8ft fixtures with 4 led bulbs in each fixture. Going for at least 100 lux per the sticky in the workshop thread.
Contributor
Having gone through this myself over the last couple years:
I really like a dedicated shooting board plane. I picked up a LN #9 way back when. a LV low angle jack works really well also.
I found it useful to use two different techniques for sharpening. Basically regular edge maintenance on waterstones or diamonds stones and "I need to flatten a large area of steel (chisel back through #7) bed without dying" using sandpaper on granite plates.
Multiple router planes are awesome because you can use them as depth gauges as well as for taking out wood.
I also use multiple layout tools at once because I can keep track of different things as I go.
I suck at curved sawing (fret,bow,coping, etc), so I use a lot of rasps and files and spokeshaves. Mostly, I do bandsaw -> spokeshave -> file.
Friend of the Creek
I'm a carpenter for 40 plus years but a 100% power tool guy. I'm retired now and am in the process of registering for a hand tool joint class for a week. It was suggested that look at this web site for an idea of the tools to bring or that we will be using
https://woodandshop.com/which-hand-t...l-woodworking/
Regards
Tom
Contributor
Howdy Thomas and welcome to the Creek.
The main tooling needed for almost any hand tool joinery would be:
• Marking and layout
- pencil or knife suitable for marking
- marking gauge (some like wheels some like pins)
- square (one to check the stock and it is helpful to have one small enough to check the sides of your tails for square.)
- bevel gauge or dovetail layout gauge (a bevel gauge comes in handy for many types of joinery, a dovetail gauge is a one trick pony.)
- dividers or other measuring device
• Cutting tools
- Saw for initial cutting (many prefer a western style back saw, others prefer Japanese style pull saws.)
- Many people like to use a coping or fret saw to remove the waste.
- Chisels for chopping and paring. (chisels needs to be small enough to fit into your smallest sockets yet large enough to pare the widest open areas.)
Beyond this short list it can also be helpful to have a shooting board and plane to get your joinery square from the start.
jtk
"A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
- Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)
Contributor
I'd strongly suggest not getting any tools you aren't required to bring until after you finish the class. Once you have that experience, you'll have a better understanding of what you'll want/need and how to evaluate advice and recommendations.
Some schools have loaner tools and other classes have a required tool list. What does your class say specifically?
[OP]
Member
That list is pretty close to what I am starting with.
i developed my list by drawing up some ideas for the projects that I want to work on. Then I have spent a lot of time on YouTube specifically looking for the techniques I need for my projects. Basically I narrowed it down to Rob Crossman and Paul Sellers as my main inspiration. I have tried to avoid task-specific and speacialty tools. The exceptions are the router plane and plow planes. The router is so versatile and the plow since I know I will be making a lot of drawers.
i have not had to buy chisels yet as I had a set, but I would not buy a set at this point. You are better off getting just a couple of sizes of better chisels for now.
[OP]
Member
Lights are done!
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