The workbench is where I fluctuate the most right now. Roubo vs Moravian vs Nicholson vs some type of hybrid. When I design I tend to add more and more complexity and at some point have to stop, go back and start simple. Right now I am in that mode and am contemplating a very simple Paul Sellers style bench. I would add some holes for holdfasts and a plane stop.
that is also why I built a quick bench so I could start using it and deciding what I needed in a bench.
I was posting this same question about 15 months ago, my tool list and project list was very similar. The tool kit has gotten me through since then with only minor changes. There are only a few notable differences.
1. I went way lighter on the joinery planes with only a router plane, I recently added a plow which I should have just bought to begin with. If you have not already purchased I would get those 2 with more cutters and forego the shoulder and skew rabbet, woody rabbets are everywhere for cheap and easy to add if you want one.
2. I bought more saws, this is partly because I got bitten by the disston rehab bug but did teach me a few lessons. 1) Sawing is likely the most important skill, a good cut makes everything else easier 2) Tooth profile, length, etc for a specific cut make it easier 3) For any given saw you have to use it enough to know it well, kind of like the old hunter saying "beware the man with one rifle, he knows how to shoot it" 4) This brings me back full circle to the fact that I only use a few saws but the exercise showed me which ones it would be and only cost a little bit given the price of old saws. For now use what you have but be on the look out for old saws to rehab and experiment with
3. As someone else mentioned you need a marking knife or 3
4. Go ahead and make the dovetail gauges but also try the Klausz pin first method, most prefer tail first but it frustrated the heck out of me, as soon as I did my very first pin first it just clicked and I went from hating dovetails to loving them.
5. If you plan to cut mortises the Narex mortise chisels are handy, I dont use mine a lot but they are gold when I do
6. Play around with some specialty chisels when you get a chance, a dedicated paring chisel can be real nice, I see no need for a full set but love the 2 I have
Overall your kit looks good though, go make some shavings!
John,
Different things blow different skirts, YMMV, and all that rot but: After building and working on a number of benches, both built by me and others, the one constant I've found is that simpler is better. Anything more than a face vise of some kind just gets in the way, adds to the cost and complexity (time to build) of the build, and in use will many times slow the workflow.
After my third Moravian build I've become an advocate of that style bench because of its advantages over the other popular benches. That said, any style will work and any build is a series of tradeoffs.
ken
Not sure where the OP lives, but anyone is welcome to stop by the Dungeon Shop, and try out the toys..er...tools, I use. Just let me know when you want to drop by...
Bellefontaine, OH.
You got me thinking and now I have another plan. I need to build better legs for this bench:
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So why not build them”Moravian” style:
CBA46C62-C5C8-4B53-819B-7CB35A6D15A6.jpg
Then I can build the Paul Sellers style bench and have best of both worlds. I will have room for two bench’s, one in the middle,of the shop and one against the wall. We will see which one ends up in which position.
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Look quick...
cleaned up.jpg
As this doesn't stay this cleaned off, very long.....
Now that I am working in the shop I have pared down my shopping list. This should allow me to do all of the projects I have in mind for the foreseeable future. I appreciate everyone’s comments above!
Vintage Stanley #4
Vintage Stanley #5 - already own
Vintage Stanley #7
Stanley handyman converted to scrub - already own
Veritas plow plane with T&G and beading blades
Veritas Router plane
Saw shaped object for rough breakdown - already own
(will be on look out for good vintage rip and cross cut full size saws later)
LN panel Rip saw
LN Tapered Dovetail
LN Tapered Tennon (rip)
LN Tapered Carcase
(will add saw sharpening equipment later in the year)
80s Vintage Marples chisels set - already own
Thor mallet - already own
LN Holdfast (2)
Benchcrafted plane stop
Eclipse 10” QR vise
titemark marking gauge (2)
Veritas mortise gauge - already own
dividers (2’)
12” combo square
marking knifes - already own
Wood Owl auger bits
Brad point drill bits
DMT sharpening plates
Grizzly 17” bandsaw
dust collector - already own
Instead of the panel saws I decided to go with some vintage saws from vintagesaws.com. A 28” 5.5pt Phoenix rip and a 26” 8pt Atkins #51 crosscut. I figure these would be good saws to use and then learn to sharpen. Once I get good I can look for the D12...
1. A rule. I'd recommend a two-foot one to start, although you may want to supplement that fairly soon with a 6" rule if you find hand tools to your liking. Don't go nuts on price, but do get quality (people say nice things about PEC; don't know, never held one). If you're buying it in person, and you trust the rule on your 12" square, use it to check the accuracy of the graduations on the rule.
2. You can't bring it home, but your friendly local library is a tool you should use to its maximum. Books or DVDs on hand tool woodworking can give you the basic concepts without spending any more money than the cost to get there. It looks from the interweb like your nearest library is in Kountze, a bit of a drive; I was defeated when I tried to look at the catalog, couldn't find it.