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Thread: Sweet parallelogram....or how do you hide out of square

  1. #1
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    Sweet parallelogram....or how do you hide out of square

    Evening, all. Working on this blanket chest and I didn't get the case quite square. You'd never know by looking at it until the molding is attached.

    THe plan was to build the plinth so that it extended 9/16" past the case on all sides then a 1/2" cove molding would be applied leaving a 1/16" reveal between the edge of the molding and the edge of the plinth. The plinth is square.

    With the case set on the plinth so that the front has an even reveal since it will be most visible, the right & left sides are the problem. Right side reveal is ok at the front but increases at the back. Left side is also OK at front but decreases at back.

    I've tried finagling the case on the plinth to reduce the error on the sides but then the front & back get messed up.

    Any tips or tricks to hide or minimize this?
    Attached Images Attached Images

  2. #2
    Two quick thoughts. 1) Rout the molding on the edge of a wide boar and cut the molding on the table saw with a shim on one end equal to the reveal difference.

    2) Rout the molding on a wide board, cut on table saw to a size with no reveal and then block plane the molding to equalize the reveal. Only the top edge of the molding has to be tight so block plane a titch more on the inside bottom.

    my 2 pennies

  3. #3
    Increase the reveal by making a thinner molding and/or taper the molding on the sides, or plane the face of the plinth to match the case. How far out is it?

  4. #4
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    It’s about 1/16” difference between front and back reveals.

    Not sure about my hand tool skills and planing the plinth.

    I thought about tapering the molding but it seemed to me that that would just shift the problem from an uneven reveal to an uneven fillet on the molding. But maybe that would be less visible; I’ll have to do some experimenting.

  5. #5
    You can taper the plinth on the jointer, or use a belt sander.

  6. #6
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    Just a thought...it doesn't look like the plinth is so massive it can't be tweaked. Could you attach the front edge, then pull the back edge sideways into alignment (or mis-alignment as it were)? Without pulling your joints apart of course. The miters on the molding would be greater than 45 on two corners, less than 45 on the other two corners. You might not get everything to align perfectly but if you could also reduce the size of the cove (increases the reveal) to get a visually acceptable line.

  7. #7
    What kind of bottom does the box have?

    If the bottom isn’t on the box yet, you might be able to improve things when you install it.

    1- Measure the corners of the box diagonally. Determine which pair of corners has a longer measurement.
    2- Place a clamp across the pair of corners with the larger measurement. Tighten the clamp until the diagonal measurements are equal.
    3- Leave the diagonal clamp in place, confirm your numbers and install the bottom with screws or nails.

    You can can use a similar set of steps during initial glue up as well.

  8. #8
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    I might consider just rebuilding the plinth.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kevin Jenness View Post
    You can taper the plinth on the jointer, or use a belt sander.
    How would this be done on the jointer? I need to take about 1/16 off one end and taper to nothing off the other end.

    Quote Originally Posted by Tim Bueler View Post
    Just a thought...it doesn't look like the plinth is so massive it can't be tweaked. Could you attach the front edge, then pull the back edge sideways into alignment (or mis-alignment as it were)? Without pulling your joints apart of course. The miters on the molding would be greater than 45 on two corners, less than 45 on the other two corners. You might not get everything to align perfectly but if you could also reduce the size of the cove (increases the reveal) to get a visually acceptable line.
    The area above the cutouts in the plinth is 3/4" thick x ~1" wide. It seems a little fragile to be cranking it 1/16 of out square but who knows.

    Quote Originally Posted by liam c murphy View Post
    What kind of bottom does the box have?
    Bottom is 4 shiplapped boards that go into a rabbet in the front and back. One screw centered on each end of the board. I looked at the option of tweaking the case but it's not going anywhere until it catastrophically fails.


    Quote Originally Posted by Frank Pratt View Post
    I might consider just rebuilding the plinth.
    looked at this too but would require it to be glued up out of square to match the box and odds of me getting that right are pretty slim

  10. #10
    "How would this be done on the jointer? I need to take about 1/16 off one end and taper to nothing off the other end."

    Adjust the infeed table for a 1/16" deep cut. Clamp a stop to the infeed table at a distance from the outfeed table lip slightly less than the plinth length for safety. With the jointer running butt one end of the plinth against the stop, drop the other end onto the outfeed table and push forward to cut the taper. Keep your hands behind the cutterhead as you drop on. There will be a slight divot at the front of the cut to sand out.

    This is a quick way to cut a taper, and safe as long as your hands are away from the cutterhead. If you don't feel comfortable with the idea, get out a plane and scraper or a belt sander.

  11. #11
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    What's the purpose of the molding? The dovetails are clean and still visible with a molding. Square or not I think I would have chamfered the top of the base and left it as is. It looks good.
    Bumbling forward into the unknown.

  12. #12
    [QUOTE=Paul Mattaliano;2890577]It’s about 1/16” difference between front and back reveals.

    Not sure about my hand tool skills and planing the plinth. I would rather experiment with a piece of molding than risk the plinth.

    I thought about tapering the molding but it seemed to me that that would just shift the problem from an uneven reveal to an uneven fillet on the molding. But maybe that would be less visible; (That is my thinking) I’ll have to do some experimenting.[/QUOTE Block plane and some sanding has bailed me out at times.

  13. #13
    Quote Originally Posted by Brian Holcombe View Post
    What's the purpose of the molding? The dovetails are clean and still visible with a molding. Square or not I think I would have chamfered the top of the base and left it as is. It looks good.
    I would experiment with the molding and before applying it, compare it to what Brian suggests and decide which looks better and then go with the one you feel better about. No great risk with either of these options.

    Good Luck

  14. #14
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    Well, I attempted tapering the plinth on the jointer and that didn’t go so well. The end grain of the tails, tall pieces with narrow strips connecting the feet so it’s tough to properly support it, etc. I’ll be rebuilding the plinth with a diagonal clamp to force it out of square during glue up. We’ll see how it goes during a dry run.

    edit: the reason for the molding is the plinth has two poplar strips let into it to help support the box and they would be visible without the molding. This design is based on Schwarz’s from PW minus the fancy pants maple and DT instead of box joints. https://www.popularwoodworking.com/p...-chest-design/
    Last edited by Paul Mattaliano; 01-23-2019 at 11:00 PM.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Paul Mattaliano View Post
    Well, I attempted tapering the plinth on the jointer and that didn’t go so well. The end grain of the tails, tall pieces with narrow strips connecting the feet so it’s tough to properly support it, etc. I’ll be rebuilding the plinth with a diagonal clamp to force it out of square during glue up.
    Have you got a sliding bevel? Set it to the angle on the chest & then use it to duplicate that angle when you glue up the plinth.

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