WiFi in the shop

[Bill Space]

I’m with Jim on this. It would be prudent to buy something that is current rather than a discontinued product.

My experience proves that a very reliable Wifi link between two locations 300’ plus apart can be set up without much in the way of exotic equipment. Today the speed was over 80 Mbps. About 30 times what would satisfy me in this case.

100 feet should be a piece of cake for a WiFi link.

[Jim Becker]

I somewhat agree with you, Bill, that 100 feet shouldn't be an issue, but there are caveats that were already mentioned including line-of-sight through windows or an outdoor antenna because of the nature of building materials and the effect on wireless signals. The higher speed standards that most folks like to use these days also have less distance and far less "material penetration" than the older, but slower standards. it's a game...

[Dan Baginski]

I have one of these in mine. They extend pretty far and it keeps the same wifi name, etc so you don't have to switch between routers. Haven't had an issue with it.

https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Night...+mesh+extender

[Mike Cutler]

Interesting topic as I want to accomplish basically the same thing.
One thing I do find interesting is that I can pick up my neighbor's networks, but not mine, inside my garage. Maybe I just need to move the location of the wireless router inside the house.

I also don't want to run an underground cable, and while it may be "cheap" in some areas, it may not be cheap in other areas, if it is supposed to be inspected.
It takes two "holes" to get that cable out of the house and into the building it is desired. Both of those holes have code applications and restrictions that should/need to be considered depending on your geographic area.
In my area the entry into and out of the buildings has to conform to NEC and BOCA codes. It's the conduit code burial requirements, and entrances, that have to conform.
If I want to bury it shallow, it has to come up out of the ground in metal conduit. May not be the same everywhere, but,,,,,,,
I just don't want yet another ugly LB attached to the side of my house.

[Jim Becker]

Mike, for low-voltage communication cables, the zoning/code aspect may be a lot more relaxed. Even in urban areas, it's not uncommon for a provider like a cable company to use a slitter and just "lightly" bury their cable from the box at the street to a structure...about 3-4" deep max...and then send it inside through a simple bored hole that's caulked. This is very different than for electrical power stuff. The cable I mentioned above is cat 5/6 direct burial rated and could be installed in a similar fashion.

[Mike Cutler]

Jim
Yeah, it will be different based on geographical area.
I also asked about just drilling holes, like cable, and was told that if it came up out of the ground, it had to meet the the NEC conduit requirements. It's not worth getting into a fight with the bldg inspector to me. I may need them one day for something important and don't want a "history" with them. Easier to install some type of wireless adapter.
I know all of the data lines we've installed at work over the past few years have also had to meet the NEC requirements for conduit.
Some places may be simple and easy. Others not. I'm apparently in the "not" category.

[Brice Rogers]

When I've had a code inspector on site, they haven't been overly vigorous in inspecting every inch of my property. They are focused on the specific permit that I've "pulled". They are a bit myopic IMHO. They aren't wandering all over my property. So, I've run some RG-6 and some phone cable to my workshop in a gray PVC pipe. I've also run some cable to my electric gate, etc. etc.

When I took out a permit for my water heater and then for my solar installation (and one or two other things), the inspector just checked that the water heater was strapped to the wall. I invited him to go up on the roof to check the solar (hot water) and he said he didn't need to. So I spend $300 for a solar permit and he just yanked on the water heater seismic straps? He should have gone up on the roof but probably didn't know what to look for and probably was too lazy to walk up a ladder. So, I have no concern that an inspector is going to wander off and find something I've done. If in the worst-case scenario he found something that he didn't like (like the phone and TV cable to my workshop), I suppose that I could just cut the cable to placate him and then re-pull the cable once he has left.

When I've worked with inspectors, I'm always respectful and never confrontational. I look for mutual solutions. Even when the inspector or the permit person is totally off base, I don't ever let it become personal. I never challenge the inspectors. I find that they are not typically nit-pickers. I suppose that if there was "bad chemistry" that they could be a PITA.

But I wouldn't worry about putting in a pulling el where the cat 6 cable left my house and where it entered my workshop. Personally, I would not direct bury but would put in a 1" gray PVC conduit. I think that if you use the gray PVC (for electrical) where it can be seen, that everyone would be happy. If your area requires galvanized metal, then put that in.

[Curt Harms]

Somebody mentioned using a power line adapter to make the connection. I used to have a similar situation to the O.P. and tried that. The signal was a little weak but worked okay while just sitting there at the computer. The moment I fired up my table saw, the device went off line and only a power on reset would restore functionality. My conclusion was that large power tools create enough electronic noise to render such devices useless.

That's certainly possible Art, I wonder if there's some sort of filter that would help but would it worth the time & $$. There have been efforts to use AC utility lines to carry network signals to save running coax/fiber. It apparently ain't easy due to all the interference. One thing that apparently helps with signal strength is to have all powerline adapters on the same "leg" of the service panel. I recall seeing some sort of bridge that ran between the bus bars to help with network signal strength on both bars but don't recall where I saw it.

[Paul Lawrence]

The OP is missing after the initial post and 37 replies. Sigh.

[John K Jordan]

The OP is missing after the initial post and 37 replies. Sigh.

Hope the absence is not due to accident or illness.