Which saw for a cut on a 6 foot post?

[Brian Kent]

OK, I psyched myself out. All I need to do is cut off a standing fence post at about the 6 foot mark. Every time I picture doing it I picture injuring myself. So what is the safe tool to use (I know - any of these, if I am careful, but…)

Western cross-cut hand saw.
Japanese pull saw.
Jigsaw with 4" blade.
Circular saw.
Grenade.
Chain saw.

I would not even ask this except I haven't gotten it done for months.

Thanks

[ChrisA Edwards]

Me, I'd use a circular saw, but I'd clamp a straight piece of wood, below the cut, to act as a guide and also support for the saw.

And being only 5'7", I'd be on a step stool or ladder so I'm not reaching more than chest height.

[Rod Sheridan]

Hi Brian, I would use a circular saw with a pice of ply clamped to the post as a guide......Rod

[Tom M King]

If it doesn't have to be pretty, a chainsaw will work fine. I use my lightest weight saw, and cut on the top of the bar so the chips are thrown away from me. You can make a decent cut like this to marked lines, and clean up the edges with a block plane.

For pretty cuts, I use a 10-1/4" circular saw, or 16-5/16" saw if it's a 6x (doubt you would have one of these since you're asking), and a guide that is clamped on with a big C-clamp.

A handsaw will work too, but choose a sharp one with large crosscut teeth.

edited to add: When we're building fences, I use one of these instead of standing on a ladder to lop posts:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Werner-3...P-20/100662616 There are a number of different models, including some with adjustable heights. They're much less tiring, and safer, than standing on any ladder.

I avoid ladders, whenever possible, and especially on uneven ground.

[Mike Kees]

Any of them,however I especially like the grenade choice.

[Doug Dawson]

OK, I psyched myself out. All I need to do is cut off a standing fence post at about the 6 foot mark. Every time I picture doing it I picture injuring myself. So what is the safe tool to use (I know - any of these, if I am careful, but…)

Western cross-cut hand saw.
Japanese pull saw.
Jigsaw with 4" blade.
Circular saw.
Grenade.
Chain saw.

Either of the hand saws will do, but because the wood is probably treated, the Japanese saw will be slow, and I find them awkward to use horizontally and produce a perfectly square cut.

If it were me, it would be quick and dirty with a chain saw, from a perch on a the other side of a ladder, wearing chaps of course. That way, if something goes horribly, _horribly_ wrong, the ladder gets mangled, not you. Be careful not to inhale any of that dust, it will mess you up, no matter how you do it. (Wear a dust mask.)

[Jerome Stanek]

just dig a deeper hole

[Bill Carey]

just dig a deeper hole

LOL - thinking outside the post.

I would use a sawzall. Easy peasy. But if you decide a grenade is the way to go, please post a video!

[lowell holmes]

I have a skill saw, table saw, miter, band saw, and hand saws. Unless it is 4x6 or larger, I normally use a handsaw or miter saw.
Long boards do better on saw horses with hand or skill saw. I also have a bayonet saw.
You really need one tool of each kind. I have 9 handsaws, all rust free, good handles and sharp. My Most valuable hand saw is a D12 Disston .

[Dan Baginski]

If it’s a post for a farm type fence then I think a chainsaw would be just fine. If it’s a little more decorative then a circular saw with some straight edges.

If the grenade doesn’t work, maybe a howitzer?

[Matt Day]

Lowell, the fence post is upright.

[lowell holmes]

I would use a handsaw. A circular saw might grab a knot and jump on you.
You might look for a Disston D-7 D-8 or D-12.

https://www.google.com/search?q=how+...hrome&ie=UTF-8

[Eric Schmid]

Clamp two speed squares below the line you’re cutting and on opposite sides. The off-set is equal to the measurement from the base plate to the far side of the blade, 1 1/2” for a Skilsaw. Have the long end of the speed square on the starting side of each cut. Make the cut half way (or more) from each side. Keep the base plate firm against the post.

If I have more than a few inches of post above the cut I will leave a bit of wood in the center to finish with a handsaw, western style.

I recently discovered the new Skilsaw has rounded corners on the baseplate. If you’re saw won’t rest easily on the thin edge of a speed square use a piece of scrap wood.

If you keep the edge of the saw on the guide and the base firm on the post you’ll be fine.

[Tom M King]

I have about a quarter mile of 4-board to rebuild this Spring. Come help, and you will get plenty of experience.

[roger wiegand]

If it doesn't need a smooth finish then a chain saw. If you cut the top at an angle the water will run off some and they will last longer.