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Thread: [HELP] CorelLaser settings for rubber stamp engraving

  1. #1
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    Question [HELP] CorelLaser settings for rubber stamp engraving

    Hi,

    I have a chinese 80W 40x60 laser machine. Recently I started engraving rubber stamp sheets, but when it comes to fine lines the problem begins, because the laser engraves at straight angles (90 degrees) thin lines are too weak and tend to break away with usage and aging. I've seen that Trotec software have a functionality for stamps to create a chamfer for that purpose, so when there is the need to reinforce the lines so they are no longer weak and prone to break. Is there any workaround for chinese machines to do that?. My machine came with Li Hui Yu Studio dongle, that means CorelLaser is my control software.

    Thanks in advance.,

    P.S.: https://www.troteclaser.com/en/knowl...amp-engraving/

  2. #2
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    Most Chinese machine software comes with a setting for Stamp mode. Look and see if yours does or try to find the documentation if there is any.
    Retired Guy- Central Iowa. , LightObject 40w CO2 Laser and Chiller, MakerGear M2 3D Printer. Qe60+ Vinyl cutter. Fine Line Automation 4x4 CNC Router- Mach3

  3. #3
    in my software it's referred to as 'grade engrave'...


  4. #4
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    In RDworks, look at Ramp Effect under the power settings. Haven't used, so you'll have to experiment. Looks like you put in a distance from your graphic/text to start.
    Woodworking, Old Tools and Shooting
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  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by toni plaza View Post
    correct tool would help to resolve it quickly and cheaply.
    Years ago people from Japan got this idea
    Brother Stamp Creator PRO
    https://www.brother-usa.com/business/sc-2000usb
    and it is available


    you will not have to use bazooka to kill a fly. Regards.
    Don't know if you have used any of these, but they are pretty cheap junk in my opinion. And very limited in size. How about about a nice 3" round stamp. NOT.
    Woodworking, Old Tools and Shooting
    Ray Fine RF-1390 Laser
    Ray Fine 20watt Fiber Laser
    PM2000, Delta BS, Delta sander, Powermatic 50 jointer,
    Powermatic100-12 planer, Rockwell 15-126 radial drill press
    Rockwell 46-450 lathe, and 2 Walker Turner RA1100 radial saws

    RIA 22TCM 1911s

  6. #6
    and while a bazooka may be a bit of overkill for dispatching flies, they do have many other uses...


  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kev Williams View Post
    and while a bazooka may be a bit of overkill for dispatching flies, they do have many other uses...
    taking out trolls, for example...
    I have done so much with so little for so long, that I can do almost anything with practically nothing...

    Trotec Speedy 400 80 watt 8/2015
    G. Weike LF-30, 30 watt galvo fiber - 1/2016
    G. Weike LF-30, 30 watt galvo fiber - 3/2015
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  8. #8
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    First why would someone purchase a rubber stamp machine when he already owns a machine that will make them?

    Second how long is this guy going to be around causing problems and insulting people.... moderators.

    My guess he is from overseas Eastern Europe perhaps and not Illinois.
    Last edited by Bill George; 01-22-2019 at 8:41 PM.
    Retired Guy- Central Iowa. , LightObject 40w CO2 Laser and Chiller, MakerGear M2 3D Printer. Qe60+ Vinyl cutter. Fine Line Automation 4x4 CNC Router- Mach3

  9. #9
    Ramp effect, in RDW's power settings works well, BUT... for greater clarity, you ALSO need depth, and precision.
    Try unilateral, rather than bilateral sweeps, try a really fine advance- eg 0.06mm, and you need reasonable contrast between max & min power settings eg 80% / 55% (or else there is nothing to ramp between...).

    It works nicely for us...
    Best wishes,
    Ian



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  10. #10
    Ok, for fun I did some searching for Keyence and Omron lasers.

    First of all, these things are NOT designed for trophy or machine shop use. They're much more suited for research/development labs, scientists, etc., complete overkill for the typical laser user on this forum. Killing flies with a bazooka? Some of these machines in place of what we're using would be like killing flies with the Death Star-! None of us are manufacturing kidney dialysis blood pumps or high dose radiation generators for stereotactic radiosurgery Gamma Knives...we're just cutting up wood and plastic into cool shapes and putting words and pictures on stuff. High tech good, ultra-high tech, just an added expense we don't need.

    on Ebay: $20,000 for an 11 year old Keyence 3-axis YV04 laser marker, 13 watts, 1064nm laser, same as any old fiber; $50 large for a similar 4 year old machine, with absolutely no specs listed, and $100K for a 'new-other', also devoid of any specs. This is ebay, what do actual new ones cost? And Omron seems to sell more stuff FOR lasers, rather than laser markers....

    ...but I did find one on their website, and they showed off their stuff with these test results:
    ttest3.jpg
    what are we looking at? 1mm high engraving, on the left is the high-speed "G-DAC" version, which took only an impressive 54 milliseconds.
    On the right is what the engraving looked like without G-DAC that took 116 milliseconds. Gotta say, that left-side "UP" looks absolutely terrible!

    Ok, this my version, done on my Triumph, speed 1500mm/s. Not too bad?
    And I'm glad I did this, I can see that my laser on/off settings need tweaking!
    ttest2.jpg
    Now seriously, does not this engraving look very much like the 'good' engraving above, and NOTHING like their BAD engraving?

    Here's my source material, a font called Lato Hairline, exactly 1mm tall...
    ttest1.jpg
    Notice the time it took, 234 milliseconds, nearly twice as long as the 'bad' time above...
    BUT, here's the kicker- Omron used, best I can tell, a single-line font, whereas I used a full-on double line/outlined font-
    This means my machine traveled more than twice the distance as their machine, with more than twice the laser stops and starts,
    and if you cut the time in half to compensate, it comes out to within, ironically, 1 millisecond of their machine's SLOW version--

    This begs the question: why does my "cheap" machine's 117ms run look so much better than their "high-end" machine's 116ms run?
    (or was that an ad gimmick--? Honestly, I've never seen any galvo machine actually engrave that badly...)

    Will the Omron's half-the-engraving-time hold when things get substantially larger than 1mm? If so, then the time savings can be substantial. But even if so, is it worth 6 to 7x the money?

    Not unless we're doing brain surgery. As for me, I'm not.



    .
    Last edited by Kev Williams; 01-23-2019 at 2:56 AM.


  11. #11
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    I've ran into these guys before on the Mach3/4 forum or CNC Zone nearly all are from Eastern Europe and all they want to do is argue or pick fights to show how smart they are (not), like this guy, he is just a Troll.
    Last edited by Bill George; 01-23-2019 at 10:04 AM.
    Retired Guy- Central Iowa. , LightObject 40w CO2 Laser and Chiller, MakerGear M2 3D Printer. Qe60+ Vinyl cutter. Fine Line Automation 4x4 CNC Router- Mach3

  12. #12
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    Sorry for not being alive on my post. Thanks to all who replied.
    The problem is I don't have a Ruida controller laser, mine is LiHuiYu Studio Board.
    01.jpg02.jpg03.jpg04.jpg05.jpg

    Those are all the settings the software have.

  13. #13
    You may be looking in the wrong place, all those screenshots seem to be of 'major' parameters settings-

    my "grade engrave" is within the basic power/speed settings menu:
    ge.jpg
    I would have to check my instructions as how to use it, but that's it! --I believe it can also be used for "3D" engraving..


  14. #14
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    That's because you have RDWorks not Corellaser (WinSeal XP). All those screenshots are all dialog boxes that Corellaser (WinSeal XP) has.

  15. #15
    I don't have RDworks, I use PHCad/LaserSoft, pretty much unique to Triumph machines (although I'm sure there must be other brands using it)--

    anyway, as to your screenshots, upon looking closer, I see pics 3 and 4 are of your 'send to laser' menu...

    I notice in the 'style' you have choices of engraving, cutting and marking. Not sure the difference between 'engraving' and 'marking'-? Next to 'style' you have an unchecked box "sunken" and a grayed out option to the right "inside first". What other options are there besides 'sunken' if any? - Inside-first usually refers to cutting holes within holes, within holes, etc, for the laser to cut inside-first. However, I'm not sure what 'sunken' refers to, but it may have to do with 3D style engraving, which is basically the same as stamp engraving. Also, there must be other options as it's a drop-down tab...

    So my observation is the same; what you need may be right there, hiding in the engrave menu...


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