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Thread: Oily woods and platters

  1. #1

    Oily woods and platters

    I am thinking of making a bunch of wooden platters (10-14” or so long) for light use with food service (think small bites/canapés; no cutting). I will be gluing strips of different wood together with clamping, cutting and finishing as many have done before. However, are there woods I should definitely avoid (e.g., padauk, zebrawood, wenge, bubinga, rosewood, etc)?

    i tried a small inlay project a couple of years ago (I believe with purple heart) and the poly would form a sticky mess due to the oils in the wood. I solved the problem by spraying with shellac before the GFHP satin, but I’d like to avoid this on these boards. I was planning on using GF wood bowl finish.

    As always, thanks in advance for any advice.

    Phil

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
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    Quote Originally Posted by Phil Potter View Post
    I am thinking of making a bunch of wooden platters (10-14” or so long) for light use with food service (think small bites/canapés; no cutting). I will be gluing strips of different wood together with clamping, cutting and finishing as many have done before. However, are there woods I should definitely avoid (e.g., padauk, zebrawood, wenge, bubinga, rosewood, etc)?

    i tried a small inlay project a couple of years ago (I believe with purple heart) and the poly would form a sticky mess due to the oils in the wood. I solved the problem by spraying with shellac before the GFHP satin, but I’d like to avoid this on these boards. I was planning on using GF wood bowl finish.

    As always, thanks in advance for any advice.

    Phil
    I personally don't use poly on exotics. I like the look of "danish" oil on most woodturnings, sometimes beeswax, rarely lacquer, no finish on cocobolo/ebony/lignum vitae, etc (just buffed). The oil takes a while - I use 6-10 coats and allow to dry between each.

    JKJ

  3. #3
    John,

    Thanks. Would you consider this “danish” oil food safe? If they look good, I am considering giving them to family as gifts, but since they don’t live in the US, I would not be able to help them with any ‘maintenance’ down the road.

    Thanks.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
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    E TN, near Knoxville
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    "Danish" oil finish

    Quote Originally Posted by Phil Potter View Post
    Thanks. Would you consider this “danish” oil food safe? If they look good, I am considering giving them to family as gifts, but since they don’t live in the US, I would not be able to help them with any ‘maintenance’ down the road.
    I write "danish" since I don't think it has anything to do with the Danes.

    According to the experts, for example from a couple of my books on finishing, all finishes are food safe once cured. This probably assumes you don't eat the wood or get into a wrestling match with any Danes. I sometimes think the people who advertise food safe finishes have an ulterior motive. (yikes!)

    One nice thing about oil finishes is they are easily repairable with a bit of oil, much easier than poly or lacquer. That's the finish I used on several gifts to friends overseas and when I saw them after several years of use the finish was in good shape. This is one of the gifts, figured maple:

    penta_maple_ellis_c_IMG_5435.jpg

    Another nice thing it is almost impossible to mess up when applying! I just don't use it on cocobolo after having one small piece turn almost black in maybe a year. I don't use it on ebony or blackwood either.

    Another nice thing is oil really brings out the chatoyance and figure in many woods.

    I use the finish in the "usual" way: apply one heavy coat and let it soak in for 20-30 minutes, wipe off, cure overnight or longer, repeat as desired perhaps lightly wet sanding with oil and fine paper (or 0000 steel wool) on one or two of the coats, depending on how they feel to the hand. After well cured, it can be buffed for some shine, although it won't be a mirror coat like some thick film finishes. The whole process takes me several weeks so it's not good for something I need to take tomorrow. It will, however, leave a nice sheen while still letting it feel and look like wood. I often go for more of a satin look than gloss.

    I also have used straight beeswax on similar little platters, mostly on Eastern Red Cedar. I either rub it into the wood or melt it into the wood with a heat gun. We've used one piece in the house for over four years now for cookies, cheese, etc. and it still looks the same.

    We do now wash things with soap and water that are finished with oil or beeswax finishes so I don't know how that would work. The general advice I've read is for things like cereal bowls and salad bowls that will be washed in the sink just don't use any finish.

    Watco "Danish" oil is about 1/2 the price at the local Ace Hardware as it is at specialty stores who sell to woodworkers. But you can make your own for even cheaper with a mix of boiled linseed oil, mineral spirits, and some kind of varnish (say poly). Typical ratios are 1/3 each. Some people add a bit of japan dryer but I haven't tried that. I just buy the Watco in the can.

    JKJ

  5. #5
    John,

    Thanks. I am planning to try three different options on some assembled offcuts to see which looks the best (your method using Danish oil, shellac + wood bowl finish, and possibly catalyzed Royal Lac). Will update as thing progress and may post pics if things look good!

    Phil

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
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    SE PA - Central Bucks County
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    "Danish oil" is a thin varnish product and it is generally wiped on. It cures. No worries.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

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