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Thread: Shaker door and drawer questions

  1. #16
    We always do 5 piece on everything until the panel gets much below an inch. I personally like the look of a 5 piece front with a narrow panel over a slab. We dont do it on shaker much but on cope and stick we will just make the rails narrower on the top drawers to keep them all 5 piece fronts. We do overlay and I just dont personally care for a combination of 5 piece and slab front unless there are some super shallow drawers that simply cant be 5 piece.

  2. #17
    Quote Originally Posted by Patrick Walsh View Post
    We do the same but we have a shop we do overflow work for that uses them and has requested we do.

    I like the idea of them vrs the fast app screws we use. I think the four screws, one in either corner is pretty ugly.
    I'd be curious to see them in action. I agree the screws are ugly, but they're bullet proof. We use regular wood screws and pull them in flush with the backside of the front of the drawer box.

    I haven't used the Fastcap screws in my shop, but know a guy that does. I don't like the big heads

  3. #18
    are you talking about those big plastic insert things that require a huge hole then have a threaded metal insert that moves around in the plastic. Wont use those things. I use threaded inserts and pan head screws with oversize holes. its more time but its for good. A step down would be to oversize holes for four screws into the drawer front with no inserts. My heads are all countersunk so inside the drawer you know they are there but they are not sitting proud.

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Bellingham, WA
    Posts
    1,933
    Quote Originally Posted by David Ruhland View Post
    When making a "shaker Drawer" is it done the same exact way as a Shaker door.... (very short stiles)?

    I have also see a very clean single board option to drawer fronts on shaker cabs...any one have any suggestions on these?

    D
    I've done tons of both styles. In the end, I let the customer choose. I will say that it can be a pain to clean the lower rails over time as dirt and grease builds up. I offer a 20 degree (off of the normal 90) bevel inside for people who want the 5-piece look and also want an easier to clean option. A typical rail/stile width for us is 2 1/4" to 2 1/2". I prefer not to go below about a 1 3/4" drawer rail because the stub tenon glue area gets very small.
    JR

  5. #20
    1 5/8" or could be less, certain amount based on the profile and proportions. I have a tennon and haunch so not a concern.

  6. #21
    Quote Originally Posted by J.R. Rutter View Post
    I've done tons of both styles. In the end, I let the customer choose. I will say that it can be a pain to clean the lower rails over time as dirt and grease builds up. I offer a 20 degree (off of the normal 90) bevel inside for people who want the 5-piece look and also want an easier to clean option. A typical rail/stile width for us is 2 1/4" to 2 1/2". I prefer not to go below about a 1 3/4" drawer rail because the stub tenon glue area gets very small.
    We are 2.375 default on standard doors and drawers, I will go down to 1.5" rails on a drawer front. For us there is still plenty of meat there with a 1.125" tennon on a drawer front as a drawer front in our jobs sees zero abuse. They are pretty much fastened ridiculously through the drawer box, then the handle hardware, and see little to no abuse with regards to use. The front is pretty much like a board by the time it lands on the job. If the door construction is good hanging out in mid air a 6.5x18 drawer front is bullet proof.

    I have no clue what a haunch would have to do with a commercial 5 piece drawer front but I can always dream.

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Bellingham, WA
    Posts
    1,933
    I'm not doing cabinets, so I guess I always plan for worst case handling by whoever does finally install them to drawer boxes.
    JR

  8. #23
    fills in the groove in the style for the panel.

  9. #24
    Quote Originally Posted by Mark Bolton View Post
    We are 2.375 default on standard doors and drawers, I will go down to 1.5" rails on a drawer front. For us there is still plenty of meat there with a 1.125" tennon on a drawer front as a drawer front in our jobs sees zero abuse. They are pretty much fastened ridiculously through the drawer box, then the handle hardware, and see little to no abuse with regards to use. The front is pretty much like a board by the time it lands on the job. If the door construction is good hanging out in mid air a 6.5x18 drawer front is bullet proof.

    I have no clue what a haunch would have to do with a commercial 5 piece drawer front but I can always dream.

    Haunching it with a tennon and mortise would make a solid front, but a lot of steps. I'm with you, they just don't see any abuse once mounted. Solid attachment, soft close hardware makes them borderline idiot proof.

    Now that I've got the router, I've kicked around getting some door tooling for it and just hogging what I need out of solid to match the doors in smaller drawer fronts Not a perfect solution, but it creates some more options.

    What JR is talking about with the bevel is more of a "shaker" style to me than just a square profile.

  10. #25
    Martin agree but doing the doors that way already so its not a big deal.

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