Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 15 of 23

Thread: Need help to remove this drill press chuck

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jun 2016
    Location
    Western Ohio
    Posts
    24

    Need help to remove this drill press chuck

    I have been trying to remove the chuck from this Delta 14 inch bench top drill press. The teeth of the key are worn down. I cant find another that fits, so I want to put on a keyless chuck. I think this is a tapered chuck and I IMG_2245.jpgIMG_2246.jpghave tried everyway I can to remove it but it will not budge. Any advice?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Columbus Ohio
    Posts
    336
    Heat may help

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    San Francisco, CA
    Posts
    8,421
    Sometimes the quill is hollow, so you can drop a drift down it to tap the chuck's shaft out.

  4. #4
    Quote Originally Posted by Jason Winterrowd View Post
    I have been trying to remove the chuck from this Delta 14 inch bench top drill press. The teeth of the key are worn down. I cant find another that fits, so I want to put on a keyless chuck. I think this is a tapered chuck and I IMG_2245.jpgIMG_2246.jpghave tried everyway I can to remove it but it will not budge. Any advice?
    A pickle fork (a.k.a. ball joint separator) for a truck might do the trick; you can rent them from auto supply shops. As long as it fits, one tap with a hammer should do it.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Aug 2018
    Location
    Michigan, USA
    Posts
    130
    Have you tried a little Liquid Wrench?

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Boston, MA
    Posts
    812
    I had a similar problem and bought a set of wedges that fit my chuck. From amazon. Worked like a charm.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Palm Springs, CA
    Posts
    853
    On my Delta benchtop drill press, I used an automotive pickle fork as mentioned above since I had one handy, but I've used a wedged cold chisel equally successfully. Prying didn't work very well but a few sharp taps around the neck between the chuck and quill quickly popped out the most stubborn chuck. The keyless chuck was a nice upgrade from the original keyed version.

    IMG_3554.jpg

    IMG_3552.jpg
    Last edited by Dick Mahany; 01-16-2019 at 5:05 PM.
    Dick Mahany.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Apr 2016
    Posts
    1,234
    Blog Entries
    1
    Agree on the pickle fork. And the pickle juice on the fork will help prevent rust.

  9. There are two ways that the drill chuck could have been mounted. One is that there is an internal taper in the spindle. Lower the spindle and look at the spindle. If there is a slot in the spindle, then you need to watch this video:

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rJ3jyEbcse4

    If there is no slot, then post #7 may be a good way. You need to be careful as you could damage the spindle or its run out.

    We have also done a video explaining the birds and bees of Drill Chucks and arbors.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xx8ssz8CAo8

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Apr 2016
    Posts
    1,234
    Blog Entries
    1
    I'd try a straight down tap on the fork, flat side down if it has one, as close to the spindle as possible. Maybe a little more than a tap.
    I agree that tapping it the way it is designed to be used might damage the spindle.

  11. #11
    Quote Originally Posted by Bill Jobe View Post
    I'd try a straight down tap on the fork, flat side down if it has one, as close to the spindle as possible. Maybe a little more than a tap.
    I agree that tapping it the way it is designed to be used might damage the spindle.
    It's just a friction fit, so you don't have to give it much of a tap on the end. Still it's a good idea to hold/control the fork and have something cushiony (even just thick tape) in the crook of it.

    And don't forget to have something (or somebody) to catch the chuck when it falls. Owch.

  12. #12
    Quote Originally Posted by Doug Dawson View Post
    .

    And don't forget to have something (or somebody) to catch the chuck when it falls. Owch.
    A balled up towel works nicely.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Location
    Modesto, CA, USA
    Posts
    2,273
    theory is pickle fork forcing on inner race so the bearing is not brinnelled. Lower the quill all the way and look for slot for taper wedge. If there is no slot then break out the pickle fork. probably best to use two forks in opposite directions so force is applied perpendicular not at an angle.
    Bill D

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Lake Gaston, Henrico, NC
    Posts
    3,217
    Advance Auto has a loaner tool program, but I don't know the details. A Ball Joint Removal Fork is only around 10 bucks though, and can be bought from any auto parts store, and maybe even HF. They do come in different sizes.

    google "drill press chuck removal youtube" and you should be able to find many ways to do different types, and maybe even the same drill press as yours.

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Location
    Mill Spring, NC & Petersburg, NY
    Posts
    48
    Post #9 above. Lower quill, insert wedge, tap, tap. Watch your toes!!

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •