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Thread: edge band glue removal

  1. #1

    edge band glue removal

    I am getting ready to make new doors for our kitchen cabinets, built a vacuum press to do so. I will need to edge-band the cabinet carcasses with veneer to match the new doors after removing the white plastic original edge banding. How do I remove the glue from the carcasses under the existing edge banding well enough to assure a good bond with the new veneer that will withstand general kitchen use and heat and some steam generated from the stove top. Currently planning to use one part Urea Formaldehyde glue but open to better ideas! (original white band curled and came loose, likely from cooking pasta, no lid)

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    WNY
    Posts
    9,648
    I've never had any problems applying new pre glued edge banding after removing the old stuff with a hot iron, even if there is still a little glue still stuck to the edge. I wouldn't apply edge banding with UF glue; I would get the pre glued stuff and apply it with a hot iron. If you do a good job applying it and finish it properly, steam, etc. won't cause it to peel. But if you want to glue on raw wood edge banding then I think you will have to route or joint the edges clean to bare wood.

    John

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    San Francisco, CA
    Posts
    10,304
    I'm with John on this. If you're edgebanding existing case work while it is still in the kitchen, using a glue that needs to be clamped is going to be very challenging. Iron-on would be good. If you're using a species which isn't a standard one, try http://www.tapeease.com/pre-glue.htm.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2016
    Location
    Tasmania
    Posts
    2,162
    Yes, use pre glued edge tape. Cheers

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Peoria, IL
    Posts
    4,445
    I can't offer a suggestion on removing existing glue since I have no idea what it is. Were the existing cabinets factory made or DIY? But I do suggest you add (or replace with a better quality) a vented range hood if the steam is loosening parts of the existing cabinet! That kind of heat and steam won't do you any favors on the finish and durability of your new work.

  6. #6
    I would consider painting the existing edge banding as it barely shows - save a lot or work...

  7. #7
    Thanks all,
    I had been dismissive of iron on banding, assuming, sounds incorrectly, that there was a sacrifice of quality for ease of use, and thanks for the reference to tape ease, I am leaning towards anegre, and was pleasantly surprised that it is a stocked species. Richard, cabinets are factory, builder of the house went low bid for everything, including cabinets, existing adhesive is yellow-ish. And the suggestion of a new range hood.... probably would help if we just turned ours on when boiling, not a habit, as we hate the noise, but sounds like a good habit to get into. Thanks all again, good first time experience in using this site. Any particular suggestions on finish? I have assumed a poly satin would give me the best durability for a home garage applied finish. (First beta use of the vacuum pump/compressor on some test panels worked great.)

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