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Thread: Meeting angle?

  1. #1
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    Question Meeting angle?

    Writing desk, the angle the lid meets the top at. Need a way to lay that out....have seen a few done...would be nice to follow along on the project I have going...

    1 end.jpg
    If that top flat is about 4" wide. Laying a 1 x 6 on it. Lid that will hinge to it, is a glue-up, about 11-1/2" wide. I seem to remember something about using a bevel gauge...

    May be a few days....before I can gut the parts to size.....there is even talk of a bread board edge being done....may include the top shelf in that?

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by steven c newman View Post
    ...before I can gut the parts to size....
    And I thought Tommy Mac and his "Rough Cut" approach was tough; you're positively savage!

    I've never done this, but I think I'd plan to split the angle between the top (horizontal) board and the lid. There's probably a simpler way to do this, but you might try: take a bevel gauge and set it to the angle. Now transfer that to a sheet of paper or, better, card stock. Bisect the angle: https://www.themathpage.com/aBookI/propI-9-10.htm Cut your bisected angle out (this is why card stock is better) and use it to set the bevel gauge to the bisected angle. Lay out the bevel on each edge and plane to fit. Use the bevel gauge to mark each end, then strike a line between, so you know when you're reaching the edge.

    Start with the top board, and start with a board a bit wider than you need, so, if you make a misteak, you can correct it before fitting it to the top.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bill Houghton View Post

    Start with the top board, and start with a board a bit wider than you need, so, if you make a misteak, you can correct it before fitting it to the top.
    I saw what you did their.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by steven c newman View Post
    Writing desk, the angle the lid meets the top at. Need a way to lay that out....
    Steven, all I do is make the top and the angled sections. Lay them together, split the angle, and then joint them to fit ...






    The edges are supported with breadboards.

    The ends meeting at an equal angle allows the two parts to independently open and close.





    Regards from Perth

    Derek

  5. #5
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    Steve I had one of those at university. The small top board edge was an outer circle, the large lid edge an inner circle.
    There is no rotational element in Derek’s lid as the hinges are on the other side!

    The circular junction makes sense given the rotation of the joint, only the inner circle may be tricky unless you have a moulding plane of course. It does eliminate the angle question and I think they did it to stop some idiot crushing their fingers as you can’t get your fingers into the closing joint!
    ​You can do a lot with very little! You can do a little more with a lot!

  6. #6
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    Almost like a rule joint?
    side view.jpg
    This is the Standing Desk I built last year. Trying to build a sit down version, this year...
    lid opened.jpg
    Our Pastor uses this one to teach Sunday School.
    bad match.jpg
    Trying to avoid this....last time, I used a couple scraps...
    angle guides.jpg
    And trimmed until they fit...
    test fit.jpg
    We'll see, once the lid parts are all glued up....

  7. #7
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    No Steve, not like that at all. Make a fist with your left hand, now wrap your right hand around it...…...like that!
    ​You can do a lot with very little! You can do a little more with a lot!

  8. #8
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    I would sharpen a pencil and draw the joint. That will allow measuring the angle.

  9. #9
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    Check out the tread in general woodworking called "figuring how to mark an angle...help". Right now it is on page two.

  10. #10
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    Steven, to repeat what I wrote on the Power Tool forum, for the benefit of readers here: simply use a sliding bevel gauge. You can gauge the centre by eye, and then rule off both sides with the gauge. Plane to the lines.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Derek Cohen View Post
    Steven, to repeat what I wrote on the Power Tool forum, for the benefit of readers here: simply use a sliding bevel gauge. You can gauge the centre by eye, and then rule off both sides with the gauge. Plane to the lines.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek
    The key to proper fitup is that the same bevel angle be used on each edge. That way both edges will be the same crossectional height. If only one edge is beveled, that edge will be wider and the fitup will be compromised.

  12. #12
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    That depends, on whether the ease of cheating outways a mitered fit. If one keeps the top piece square, and just angles the edge of slanted lid. The pointy bit on the lid edge above the top piece, can be easily flushed flat with the top piece.

  13. #13
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    Construct with a compass or divider.
    Jim
    Attached Images Attached Images

  14. #14
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    Well, give me a few days...Funeral tomorrow, makes things a bit rough to concentrate....
    IMG_7395 (640x480).jpg
    Have the top about done...scrap is a stand-in for the lid...
    IMG_7394 (640x480).jpg
    Which will be here for a while...

  15. #15
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    Used a couple bits of scrap..
    IMG_7411 (640x480).jpg
    Cut a few times...top was first, then laid out the angle on the lid...
    Set the angle on the saw, using the blocks.
    IMG_7412 (640x480).jpg
    Had to keep checking as to which way the lid's angle was going...top came out perfect..
    IMG_7410 (640x480).jpg
    Was able to install both pieces..
    IMG_7417 (640x480).jpg
    Lid is being held up by a few clamps...
    IMG_7416 (640x480).jpg
    Have a glue up going on...

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