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Thread: Felder KF500 Pro question

  1. #31
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
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    SE PA - Central Bucks County
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    47,687
    Patrick, I made one and used the magnetic "switches" available from Lee Valley for mine. A nice scrap of ash plus a little woodworking and my wedge was ready for use.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  2. #32
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    Dec 2006
    Location
    Toronto Ontario
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    Quote Originally Posted by Patrick Kane View Post
    I really really need to make one of those, Rod. What magnets did you use?
    Hi, bottom of page 1 has the part number for the Lee Valley magnets...........Rod.

  3. #33
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    Mar 2016
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    Florida
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    886
    Any issues with these feet? It was missing the factory feet and I had these on hand. Looks somewhat similar to the feet on the A3-31. These are somewhere around 3/16 to 1/4 inch.will give me the ability to level the saw I think but if anyone has pictures of the factory feet I would appreciate seeing them.

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  4. #34
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    Dec 2006
    Location
    Toronto Ontario
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    Should be fine, have you used the machine yet.

    Iím hiding in the shop as itís -16 today, not as bad as my sister, itís - 30 where she is......Rod

  5. #35
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    Mar 2016
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    Florida
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rod Sheridan View Post
    Should be fine, have you used the machine yet.

    I’m hiding in the shop as it’s -16 today, not as bad as my sister, it’s - 30 where she is......Rod
    Holy cow and I though 39 here in FL was cold. No use on it yet. Saw it run but nothing more. I’ve got a bunch to do still to get it ready. Waiting on scorer belt, dust shoot adapter for inside, etc. I also need to change the power plug to fit my outlets, get the outside dust collection rigged up (got my two adapters today), and then get everything checked for level and alignment. Need the power magic gone also to make room.

    Im in no rush. Want it all done right before I move forward.

  6. #36
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    Mar 2003
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    SE PA - Central Bucks County
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    Greg, we are expecting 8 degrees F in the morning with a minus 13 degrees F wind chill from the back side of this storm/Arctic blast. It's not hanging around, but the morning will be brutal for anyone having to go out.
    --
    The feet should be fine.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  7. #37
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
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    Florida
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    886
    Don’t have the new saw running but still have some functionality. Knocked out a personalized cutting board as a gift for one of my customers. Soon as I can get the Powermatic sold and moved out, I can start setting the the new layout connections up. Hopefully this is the last change for a while. Phew...........

    p3264268495-3.jpg

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  8. #38
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Location
    Florida
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    886
    Man o man. The folks who had this saw must have ordered almost every outrigger and slider option. I’m lost on what some of this is, but I can tell it all needs to be aligned during initial setup. Without making some adjustment in position I don’t think leaving the outrigger open all the time is really an option due to walkway access. I may look at shifting my layout to a diagonal position but that may not afford enough room. Would like to be able to leave outrigger on all the time though.

    Looking at this more, I’m thinking the best layout with the slider is when the saw is fitted up to a wall on the opposite slide so you have the most space to left of blade. That make sense?

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    Last edited by Greg Parrish; 02-02-2019 at 11:59 AM.

  9. #39
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    Mar 2016
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    Florida
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    Okay, some questions for the experts. i figured out the shorter miter setup

    5ECFD29E-DA4D-4FA7-8BC6-F68F46A106DB.jpg

    But what the heck is this piece? Can’t figure out what it goes to. Shaper maybe?
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    19457FDD-BA93-4CA9-B6AE-85B4B7EFC1FE.jpg

    And does this look right? No instructions on this cast iron extension but I’m assuming it is to clamp on to this rail and extend cast iron outfeed. But the clamp bar doesn’t seem quite long enough to grab this properly and it will just pull off easily.
    3C51F0D2-6BA8-4B71-9B9E-1A7433AD7060.jpg
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    Thank you
    Last edited by Greg Parrish; 02-02-2019 at 12:58 PM.

  10. #40
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    Mar 2003
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    SE PA - Central Bucks County
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    Yes, it looks like you scored the "it slices it dices" accessories assortment there, Greg! That's a good thing, IMHO. Some Felder/Hammer familiar folks will have to help with some of your specific questions about "doo-dads". I will mention that on my slider, I use the short miter by-far the most, both because it's the best for the majority of my crosscutting work and because it supports the workpiece behind the cut. I do leave my outrigger on now since I shortened my right side table a couple years ago and to your point, that right side is "effectively" against a wall. That works nicely for a slider because the majority of the action is on the left. I believe I previously showed you that my J/P is parallel with my slider on the outrigger side and that makes for a very complimentary arrangement for bouncing back and forth between the machines as well as allowing me to use the outrigger to hold boards I'm milling at the J/P in a way to avoid bending down to pick them up as they are being processed. I actually use the whole sliding saw for that, bouncing material between the outrigger and the rest of the saw as I make each pass at the J/P. I really like this arrangement, but it took awhile to get it refined and finalized...and I was also dealing with that stairway obstruction mid-shop, too.

    It will probably take you a little bit of time to figure out the best arrangement for your shop for work flow and aside from the DC pains with moving things around, you at least have the mobility capability for each of the machines to figure things out.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  11. #41
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Location
    Florida
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    Thanks Jim. That’s sort of what I was thinking. A triangle between jointer/planer, sliding saw and miter station would cover most of my use. But, of course that means reconfiguring the rest of it all again. Still probably worth the effort to get this nailed down though. And I want it pinned down before I get my wiring added in a week or so. LOL

    regarding the extras, I think I got more value in extras than what I even paid for the saw in whole. Some of these parts are $500 to $600 each. To to mention I picked up a pallet jack too.


    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Becker View Post
    Yes, it looks like you scored the "it slices it dices" accessories assortment there, Greg! That's a good thing, IMHO. Some Felder/Hammer familiar folks will have to help with some of your specific questions about "doo-dads". I will mention that on my slider, I use the short miter by-far the most, both because it's the best for the majority of my crosscutting work and because it supports the workpiece behind the cut. I do leave my outrigger on now since I shortened my right side table a couple years ago and to your point, that right side is "effectively" against a wall. That works nicely for a slider because the majority of the action is on the left. I believe I previously showed you that my J/P is parallel with my slider on the outrigger side and that makes for a very complimentary arrangement for bouncing back and forth between the machines as well as allowing me to use the outrigger to hold boards I'm milling at the J/P in a way to avoid bending down to pick them up as they are being processed. I actually use the whole sliding saw for that, bouncing material between the outrigger and the rest of the saw as I make each pass at the J/P. I really like this arrangement, but it took awhile to get it refined and finalized...and I was also dealing with that stairway obstruction mid-shop, too.

    It will probably take you a little bit of time to figure out the best arrangement for your shop for work flow and aside from the DC pains with moving things around, you at least have the mobility capability for each of the machines to figure things out.

  12. #42
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    SE PA - Central Bucks County
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    Yes, getting that pallet jack was a very nice addition...handy not just for moving the saw (I rented one when mine arrived and the one time I had to move it) but other things over time. (As long as you have a place to park it) Make a quick and dirty cardboard mockup of your shop and tools to approximate scale and sit at your kitchen table and play with it. That's a lot easier than moving the wee-beasties around a lot. Once you think you have things good for workflow...move them in the shop temporarily so you can do a walk around. I'm about to do a similar exercise to determine if I want to make some changes to the south end of my shop where the CNC, miter station (which is currently fixed), workbench and bandsaw are.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  13. #43
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Location
    Florida
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    More questions to add to above. LOL. Again, thanks for any help

    this one is about the score blade bracket deal. I can’t figure out what the diagrams are telling me other than maybe it turns one way when score installed and another when no score blade installed. Manual isn’t clear. Any input?

    35CF80B6-90FA-448D-B7BB-D163D1BDCFBC.jpg


    And other than depth of cut, why would I use a 10” blade on here if I have 12” blades? Between what came with the saw and what I picked up in a package deal new from Felder, I now have blades of multiple diameters. My mind says just run the 315mm / 12” ones and be done but I’m sure there is a reason. I do see different rpms mentioned on the blades. Is there a use for all these sizes?

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  14. #44
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    The only reason to use a 10" blade on the saw is if you want to continue to use something you already have, IMHO. I just finally got completely switched over to 12" and it's eliminated the need to do certain adjustments to my riving knife, etc., and having the extra depth of cut is handy. I have exactly one 10" blade I'd still run on my saw and that's a very aggressive 20T Forrest WW-II ripping blade. That said, if you have a bunch of Felder bored blades that are usable, use them when they are appropriate.

    If you have a scoring blade, install it, get it adjusted and leave it on the machine. You will loving having it available for sheet goods and it's even nice sometimes for solid stock when you absolutely have to avoid any trash on a cut edge no matter what.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  15. #45
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Location
    Florida
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    Ive got the six in the picture and the scoring blade pictured. Your comments are along the lines I was thinking. Think I’ll try to sell the 10” versions and just use the new 12” blades.

    Now if if I could just figure out how to get the new scoring belt on. LOL. Fighting with it now but can’t see it for routing over the two pulleys, the tensioner and the flywheel on the saw blade shaft. Fun, fun.


    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Becker View Post
    The only reason to use a 10" blade on the saw is if you want to continue to use something you already have, IMHO. I just finally got completely switched over to 12" and it's eliminated the need to do certain adjustments to my riving knife, etc., and having the extra depth of cut is handy. I have exactly one 10" blade I'd still run on my saw and that's a very aggressive 20T Forrest WW-II ripping blade. That said, if you have a bunch of Felder bored blades that are usable, use them when they are appropriate.

    If you have a scoring blade, install it, get it adjusted and leave it on the machine. You will loving having it available for sheet goods and it's even nice sometimes for solid stock when you absolutely have to avoid any trash on a cut edge no matter what.

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