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Thread: Felder KF500 Pro question

  1. #16
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    WOW! Congratulations, Greg!!! You are really transforming your shop very quickly for sure!

    There are a number of great threads here that provide great information about using a slider and some interesting (and essential) jigs that will make your life complete. Be patient as you will learn to do some things differently than with the cabinet saw that you will ultimately be pleased with the results. Precision can be amazing.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  2. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Becker View Post
    WOW! Congratulations, Greg!!! You are really transforming your shop very quickly for sure!

    There are a number of great threads here that provide great information about using a slider and some interesting (and essential) jigs that will make your life complete. Be patient as you will learn to do some things differently than with the cabinet saw that you will ultimately be pleased with the results. Precision can be amazing.
    thanks Jim. I’m so excited and can’t wait. I can see all the benefits it will offer. Combined with the recent acquisition of the hammer A3-31, it should really change up my shop. Not looking forward to more possible layout shuffle but it is what it is. Once put in place and tapped into the dust collection network it should make for a fun few years building projects.

  3. #18
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    Yes, that's the thing...the combination of the two combinations, as it were, are for me, the "ideal" setup for a small shop. I often wish I would have gone for the saw/shaper, but the deal I got on the slider compared to having to order the S/S was substantially better financially. (Hence, my "poor man's shaper" with the BenchDog setup on my slider) Having the sliding table saw function will also reduce your need to edge joint and that means leaving the J/P in planer mode most of the time. I bounce between the two machines frequently during projects and they are so complimentary, it's sometimes "scary". Along that line, I have the outrigger side of my slider adjacent to the J/P which means I can also use the slider and outrigger to temporarily hold material as I'm milling it on the J/P. Think about that as you decide how you're going to orient things so they are even more complimentary.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  4. #19
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    Talking

    Jim, got a picture showing the orientation you mean?

    On another note, the eagle has landed. After a long two days traveling to Atlanta and back, the Felder is now in my shop awaiting its setup. Needs to have the dust hose inside replaced and the belt on the scorer blade replaced but otherwise will just need a tune up and calibration once I get it situated. Unfortunately, no room to do anything until I get the PM66 setup sold and moved out. So Iíll spend some time getting this one cleaned up and ready to go.

    p2172736456-3.jpg

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    p2172733990-3.jpg

  5. #20
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    Yup...right side of this pano you can see how the J/P and Slider are positioned relative to each other.



    And in this older shot from the other direction


    Congratulations on the new machine! It looks like a fine addition to your shop. Of course, now you get to figure out where all those parts go. LOL Hopefully, there will be nothing "extra" left over. Heh...heh...
    Last edited by Jim Becker; 01-15-2019 at 6:00 PM.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  6. #21
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    That looks like a good idea. Not sure if my layout can do that but I’m going to think about it now. Thanks for sharing.

  7. #22
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    That is also the "narrowest" area of my shop, which is why I shortened my saw on the right side table/fence to suit.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  8. #23
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    This saw had the right side shortened by Felder to 31 or 32 inches also. That would limit the ability to rip a sheet of ply in half but not much else. I have the table that was removed and could replace the fence bar and measure tape if I find it lacking though.

    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Becker View Post
    That is also the "narrowest" area of my shop, which is why I shortened my saw on the right side table/fence to suit.

  9. #24
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    Any use for the Incra miter 5000 sled that I have on the Felder?

    I have an Incra 1000HD that i had planned to use possibly as I saw where someone else adapted one to their slide for certain cuts. That said I’m not sure if it really adds anything beyond the factory slide, miter bar and clamps.

    I guess i need to build a Fritz and Franz jig. Maybe that is where I wondered if the 5000 might be adapted some how.

  10. #25
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    I dont think the bar will fit the channel in the Felder. With that said, you can definitely buy incra extrusions and stops to make your F&F jig out of. Mine was made on the cheap out of 3/4" ply, an old stanley tote, and incra/woodpeckers t tracks with measuring tapes. I think it is Derek from down under that has an elaborate F&F jig with incra extrusions. His is maybe the most expensive and elaborate version ive seen.

  11. #26
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    A miter gage designed for a North American cabinet saw or similar isn't really going to be overly useful with a slider and shouldn't actually be needed. That function should already be available on the saw. I suppose it could be adapted if there isn't a short miter function with the machine like I have with mind, however, but you wouldn't likely be sliding it in the slot on the top of the wagon. You'd probably clamp it down on the wagon and use the slider movement through a cut because that's going to be more precise.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  12. #27
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    Got it. I’ll sell the 5000 miter sled either with my PM66 or separately then.

    Post number 3 here is where I saw the Incra 1000 in use. I have the factory short and long miter bar so this may not do me any additional good but this is why I asked. Was just looking to see if there was any point in keeping them.
    https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread....05#post2412105


    another curious question. My table is cut down to 32”. Is there any way to split a sheet of plywood in half, or would I need the 48” fence bar/table back on it?
    Last edited by Greg Parrish; 01-17-2019 at 3:05 PM.

  13. #28
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    What outrigger do you have? If i make a 48" cut, im referencing off the outrigger stop and not the rip fence. You will find you use the rip fence as a secondary stop and not really a proper rip fence--most of the times, atleast. My machine also has a 31-32" rip fence(dumb, because i have the aftermarket blade guard that extends to 48-49" to the right), but for 48" offcuts to the right of the blade i flip the rip fence down and out of the way and reference the cut off the crosscut fence.

  14. #29
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    As others have said, I don't see a use for it.

    Now, a Fritz und Franz jig and a deflector wedge, those are useful.................Regards, Rod.


    Deflector in use.jpgVisio-Tablesaw deflector wedge drawing.pdf

  15. #30
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    I really really need to make one of those, Rod. What magnets did you use?

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