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Thread: My glue up is not square, ugh. Fixable?

  1. #1

    My glue up is not square, ugh. Fixable?

    This was a pretty complicated glue up and I had to work very quickly. I built an entertainment center. The sides are not square to the bottom. I have two stiles/rails at the bottom that attach to the sides via mortis and tenon. There’s a handful of dado joints throughout the rest of the build. I must have really monkeyed down on the pipe clamps and pulled it out of square. By the time I realized it, it was too late.

    I used titebond 3. I glued it up yesterday afternoon. Question is, if I use a heat gun to loosen up the glue on these joints do you think I will be able to pull it back to square without a complete disassembly? I couldn’t find any info on how the glue will me affected after being subjected to a heat gun. This is super frustrating as I have a lot of time invested in this project.

  2. #2
    This may or may not work. I would remove any screws and any back bracing and put bar clamps with appropriately notched blocks across the longest diagonal on the front and the back of the cabinet and alternate tightening them until the diagonals are equal. You may get a loud pop when you break the glue joints.

  3. #3
    That’s what I was thinking to. Just not sure how well the glue will come apart

  4. #4
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    The chances of breaking the glue & not the wood are extremely slim.

  5. #5
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    Ouch, I had to learn the same lesson. When doing glue ups, check immediately for flatness and perpendicular joint alignment as you are tightening the clamps.

    If your out of square just a little bit the back panel may allow you to pull it back where it belongs with the help of a couple of clamps as you insert the back panel in the precut recess. If you didn't make a recess use your router to add one and inset a 1/4" plywood back panel. Fasten the panel with screws.
    Lee Schierer
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  6. #6
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    First take three deep breaths. Now tell everyone just how far out of square your project is. Pictures may help. There is a lot of talent here. Most have at one time or another had a similar problem. You may have some work ahead of you. I would guess that your project is not lost. I would also guess that you will get several options.
    Jim

  7. #7
    I will grab pictures when I get home tonight and take measurements

  8. #8
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    Don't feel bad. I am going to buy some new bigger clamps as my pipe clamps and my lack of close inspection caused my oak end table frame to glue up non-square. Lesson learned. This afternoon or evening the local BOX will sell a couple of clamps before I mill the wood necessary to remanufacture the frame.
    Ken

    So much to learn, so little time.....

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ken Fitzgerald View Post
    Don't feel bad. I am going to buy some new bigger clamps as my pipe clamps and my lack of close inspection caused my oak end table frame to glue up non-square. Lesson learned. This afternoon or evening the local BOX will sell a couple of clamps before I mill the wood necessary to remanufacture the frame.
    I wish I could visualize your actual glue-up. Pictures would help a great deal.

    A thought that comes to mind, which may not work since I don't have this experience of breaking a glue joint, would be to heat up the blade of a putty knife (or similar) of the correct width & try to tap the blade into the glue joint, hoping that the heat may soften the glue as the blade works its way through. If this works, at least you wouldn't have any wood tearing out due the the glue being stronger than the wood. If this should work, then it would be a matter of sanding the glued surfaces.

    Good luck whichever method you try.
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  10. #10
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    Not sure if a hot putty knife will do it, but along a similar theme I used the vibrating tool taking apart a joint once (like a fein). It was a different situation and i was then able to resurface and make a thin shim spacer when it when back together. Thats about as thin a cut as I know how (cept the thin dovetail saw but that cannot plunge in)

    Wonder if soaking in water or steaming would help... (or just make a bigger twisted mess)

    The brute force method then stabilizing with a back panel sounds the most straightforward way, if that will do it.

    Let us know what you try, and what does or doesnt work.

  11. #11
    The right side is off 3/16 at the bottom. The right is off 1/4 at the top. It appears to have settled a bit since yesterday. It’s not as noticeable to me today. This is going in our basement where there’s not a lot of room to view it from afar. I’m thinking it won’t be that noticeable down there. I’m wondering if maybe I should just call it good. The boxes I’m the botto aren’t exactly square and I’m going to put drawers in there. That will be the interesting part to make them fit.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  12. #12
    Sorry some of the pics are sideways. This is the most complicated thing I’ve ever built. Until now it’s just been tables and a headboard.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dan Baginski View Post
    Sorry some of the pics are sideways. This is the most complicated thing I’ve ever built. Until now it’s just been tables and a headboard.
    See how much pressure it takes to straighten it. I still think a square back panel would take care of most of it.

  14. #14
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    Thats not too bad for a beginner. I don’t think it’s noticeable without the blue square there.
    It will be a good piece.
    Aj

  15. #15
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    Dan, it is only noticeable to you. No one else will see or know this ... of course, we woodworkers immediately tell about our mistakes!

    By the time the drawers have gone in, it will be forgotten.

    Here's a tip for fitting the drawers: glue them up in the drawer recesses. That way they will take on the shape of the recess.

    And at the end of the day, for the next build, use the Magic Square ....



    Regards from Perth

    Derek

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